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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

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Old 06-20-11, 11:25 PM   #18026
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thought its bout time i show my bikes on here just finished putting my new time together its a big difference to ride over the derosa.
just waiting for the matching time stem to come.

the new bike


the old bike

Last edited by drb; 06-20-11 at 11:28 PM. Reason: missed some wording
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Old 06-21-11, 03:46 AM   #18027
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That is one hot looking bike
Thanks! I purchased the frame not too long ago and just completed the build within the past couple of months. I am REALLY enjoying this bike. I built this with the purpose to start transitioning from riding mainly trails on my hardtail 29er to riding road. I really don't think I could have found a more perfect bike to make that transition overall a seamless one, and not mention, a joy.
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Old 06-21-11, 04:09 AM   #18028
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thought its bout time i show my bikes on here just finished putting my new time together its a big difference to ride over the derosa.
just waiting for the matching time stem to come.

the new bike


the old bike
without a doubt, the hottest bike in this page.
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Old 06-21-11, 07:12 AM   #18029
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its a whole lot better than having my taint mashed on for the entire ride.
Yeah, but there's no reason for the angle to be that extreme. I'm not a pro, but if you have your saddle tilted that far there's something wrong with the fit, your saddle choice, or both. That position will actually force you to either 1. slide forward on your saddle, mashing on the taint MORE, or 2. force you to waste energy pushing your body uphill to the sweet spot of the saddle. Might be time to treat yourself to a pro fit.

Since the late Sheldon Brown has much more cred in this department than I do, here we go:

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Angle

The angle of the saddle should be pretty close to horizontal. Some men prefer the front to be slightly higher than the rear; some women prefer the front slightly lower than the rear, but extreme angles should be avoided.

If the saddle is nosed up too far, it is likely to increase pressure on the soft tissues, and cause all sorts of problems.

If the saddle is tilted down in front, the rider will tend to slide forward onto the narrower part of the saddle. Women who are riding on saddles that were designed for men frequently tilt their saddles down. This will relieve some of the discomfort from the saddle itself, but creates new problems: The downward slope of the saddle causes the rider to tend to slide forward, and this can only be counteracted by pressure on the hands. Thus, poorly-angled saddles often are the cause of wrist, shoulder and neck problems, due to carrying too much of the rider's weight on the hands.
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Old 06-21-11, 07:17 AM   #18030
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My Bike....with new Dura Ace 7900/ Ultegra 6700mix.


All the components that came off will be used to build a beater/crit bike....

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Old 06-21-11, 08:19 AM   #18031
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Yeah, but there's no reason for the angle to be that extreme. I'm not a pro, but if you have your saddle tilted that far there's something wrong with the fit, your saddle choice, or both. That position will actually force you to either 1. slide forward on your saddle, mashing on the taint MORE, or 2. force you to waste energy pushing your body uphill to the sweet spot of the saddle. Might be time to treat yourself to a pro fit.

Since the late Sheldon Brown has much more cred in this department than I do, here we go:
i live in a small town and dont really have a pro fit as an option. i tilted it because my gel chamois bunches up in the middle and causes mass discomfort. hopefully when i can get some new bibs, i can fix the saddle. this is hopefully temporary.
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Old 06-21-11, 08:23 AM   #18032
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i live in a small town and dont really have a pro fit as an option. i tilted it because my gel chamois bunches up in the middle and causes mass discomfort. hopefully when i can get some new bibs, i can fix the saddle. this is hopefully temporary.
There lies your problem...
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Old 06-21-11, 08:35 AM   #18033
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RedLeg that crankset burns my eyes. Otherwise nice SLC.
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Old 06-21-11, 09:25 AM   #18034
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There lies your problem...
im aware. im new and that is the only bibs i have. i'll get some more when i get the extra cash, they arent cheap...
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Old 06-21-11, 10:16 AM   #18035
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4 out of 6 bikes in this thread need their steerer tube cut. I see this more and more, especially here in BF, and I am beginning to wonder if it some kinds of new trend. Now, I know some people take pictures and post them right after they build the bike up before they are completely fitted,but the frequency in which I am seeing this makes me wonder. Same going on locally too.
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Old 06-21-11, 11:22 AM   #18036
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mine isnt cut because i dont know if thats where i want to keep it or not. since im a beginner i probably will want to upgrade my aluminum bike in a couple of years so i might just never cut it for resell sakes.
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Old 06-21-11, 11:36 AM   #18037
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i might just never cut it for resell sakes.
I think this is getting to be a bigger part of the uncut-steerer thing. As much as we tout "you must get the right fit!" around here, people are loathe to cut a steerer too much just in case a future buyer finds it to be too low.

I've cut mine, but only down to the spacers I have available, and with a 1 cm spacer on top of the stem -- just as Easton recommends for their carbon steerer-equipped forks. Some people might think that it's uncut because it isn't slammed down to the headset, but it's still only 2 cm above that.
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Old 06-21-11, 09:59 PM   #18038
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15.07lbs
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Old 06-21-11, 10:03 PM   #18039
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Nice, but if you remove just one decal it would probably be <15 pounds. ;-)
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Old 06-21-11, 10:30 PM   #18040
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Lol...how did I know that was coming?

Believe it or not...all the decals are clear coated. I would have loved to pull some of the wheel logos off.
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Old 06-22-11, 12:17 AM   #18041
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I <3 Robots, looks nice. I feel like the stem should be black with all-black-bartape on the bars, and the seatpost should be white with a white saddle. It's just the frame colors that tell me that, it would be horribly against the fred-code
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Old 06-22-11, 01:22 AM   #18042
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The white post and saddle would be overkill to me. It would remind me of the color matched everything cars of the 80's. I like the contrast of the black and white.
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Old 06-22-11, 01:27 AM   #18043
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Wow...nice! Love the way the -17 stem looks.
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Old 06-22-11, 04:16 AM   #18044
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'11 Motobecane Le Champion Ti - updated with CF stem and seat post.

Geezus that's Motobecane? Nice.

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15.07lbs
Rock N Roll. I like it.
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Old 06-22-11, 07:01 AM   #18045
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mine isnt cut
TMI.




Sorry, had to.
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Old 06-22-11, 07:07 AM   #18046
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the new bike

the old bike
I like your new bike, and I loooooove your old bike. Nice pair.
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Old 06-22-11, 08:09 AM   #18047
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nice pair.
tmi.
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Old 06-22-11, 09:57 AM   #18048
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HAHA!

is it normal to want a new bike 3 months after you start riding?
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Old 06-22-11, 10:23 AM   #18049
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Lol...how did I know that was coming?

Believe it or not...all the decals are clear coated. I would have loved to pull some of the wheel logos off.
Great looking Six!

And about those decals, my brother felt the same way with his 2010 EC90s; so they look like this now.



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Old 06-22-11, 11:15 AM   #18050
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Ghost decals
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