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Newbie biker looking to get cheap but good road bike. Couple questions.

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Newbie biker looking to get cheap but good road bike. Couple questions.

Old 07-01-07, 05:13 PM
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Newbie biker looking to get cheap but good road bike. Couple questions.

Hey guys. I stumbled upon this forum from a google search and I am looking to get into road biking for fun and fitness.

I went down to two of my local bike shops (2 and only 2 in my area) and the first one I went to suggested I look into their Trek 1000 or their Lemond Etape. I said my price range was about 450 but I don't feel to bad if i have to spend 700 (however no more than that!)

I liked the Lemond however the shifter design wasnt the best (can't really down shift when your down on the bottom handle postion. I test drove it for about 3 minutes and seemed pretty nice.

I've never ridden an on-road before so I cant really know how to compare it to anything else.

Anyways - couple of questions.

1) I don't have the best back, its because of slouchy and being lazy and not sitting up straight. What kind of stretches can I do to improve my flexibility that will help me when biking? I have a weight bench also. I need to increase my flexibility alot.

2) I am fat. Not really a question but more of a problem. I am 6 foot 4 (I am tall.) and I am 220 pounds of non-muscle (just fat!) I got down to 180 pounds last summer but I totally slacked off during winter and went into an extreme depression (and just now trying to be back into shape.) I hope to get myself back down to 175ish and more muscle. I feel so icky. You think a guy in my shape (and tallness) will be able to ride a road bike?

3) Is the Lemond Etape a good bike? Ive read the Sticked ( New & Improved : The Under $750 Roadbike Thread) and not very many people talk about the Lemond. Is it a good frame? Will the components suffice? I want a decent starter bike for exersize and fun, I won't be racing.

4) My previous bikes ive had (cheap Walmart mountain bikes and what not) the bike seat always hurt my crotch. Cant really describe where but its like the soft tissue under the crotch. Any suggestions on the type/brand of saddle?

I will go back to the bike shop and try out the Trek 1000 and the Giant OCR3 and the Lemond Etape again. Any advice in the mean time will be very helpful! Thanks!
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Old 07-01-07, 05:19 PM
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OH OH OH I get to be the one to tell him to look at the sub-$750 road bike thread!

Look at the sub-$750 road bike thread.

Check out www.roadbikereview.com for reviews of the bikes you see in there. Shop around, make sure to get a good fitting bike. That's the most important thing.

I can't comment on back problems. I'm not even in my mid twenties...

Check out the clyde forum. There are plenty of big guys on bikes.

Can't comment on that model.

Saddles are very personal. If the one you end up with doesn't fit well, you can always get another. There's a huge difference between walmart saddles and road bike saddles, so what you describe may not even be a problem due to the different shapes.

*edit*
Lemond is a very reputable brand. Their bikes are actually made by trek. Their geometry is geared to people with a longer torso. Individual frame manufacturers have slightly different frame geometries. This is one of the reasons that fit is so important.
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Old 07-01-07, 05:29 PM
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Start doing stretches, like reaching for your toes. Also pushups and situps will help you to tone up and improve upper body/core strength, which in turn will help you to burn more calories.
I use a serfas Acuna saddle on both of my road bikes, but if I had to try a different one I would give the Arione a shot. 'It must be popular for a reason' is my thinking.
The trek 1000 seems like an excellent bike, most big time bike manufacturers do make entry level bikes, usually a version of their mid-priced bikes with cheaper componentry. Take a look at Jamis's Ventura, or specialized's Allez, also good bikes around $700.
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Old 07-01-07, 05:38 PM
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Hi,

I'm in a similar position (6'5", 225lbs). In response to your questions:

1) Yoga. Yes,it will be weird and yes, your freinds will take the p1ss. But I think it's the best/quickest/safest way to a stronger core. Your posture, flexibility, core strength, breathing and tree hugging ability will all improve. I prefer the slower, more relaxing type of yoga. I have a great 70s book (Richard Hittleman's 28 Day Plan or some such - it's on amazon). Give it a go.

2) Yes. Just be careful in making sure you get a bike that fits. This is where a good bike shop will show itself. Tell them what your aims are and what you want.

3) No idea. Sorry.

4) There's hundreds of saddle threads. It will take while to get used to and find one you like, but you will.

Check out the Clydesdale forum for motivation and tips.

Good luck,

Tom
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Old 07-01-07, 05:41 PM
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First off....way to go as far as starting to get back in shape. Secondly, back when I was test riding road bikes in the fall/winter of '05 I test rode both the Trek 1000 and the LeMond Etape. I liked the Trek well enough but I really liked the LeMond. I found that the position was a bit more upright, hence more comfortable for us big guys (I am 6'1" and about 205lbs). I didn't really mind the Sora shifting since any bike in this price range is going to be similarly equipped, as well as the Alex rims. As far as not being able to shift from the drops....how often will you be riding in them. Will you be in the drops enough for it to become an issue? If not, do not concern yourself with it. There are a great many members here in BF (myself included, although mine is my backup) who ride a Sora equipped bike and love it. I do not ride in the drops much of the time so I do not find the shifting position a problem at all. As far as the ride.....the LeMond felt really good for my body type. I am 6'1" with a 31" inseam so I found the slightly longer top tube a nice fit for me in the 57cm size and it rode very well, especially for an entry level bike. You may hear about the stiff ride of aluminum frames but, as a big guy, I don't feel it beats us up as much as the little guys. Of course this is merely MY opinion and I have no real studies with which to back me up. The ride position is nice and comfortable for the non-racer. It is a bit more upright than a race rig and should be comfortable for many miles if you get one that fits. Now having said that, I did not buy an Etape but I DID buy a LeMond. I ended up with a really good deal on a leftover Tourmalet which the shop let me have for $300 off of retail. I still have this bike and love it to this day. By the way my backup is a Sora equipped 2003 Raleigh Grand Sport which I picked up from Craigslist for $150. If you can find that LeMond for a price you can live with then, by all means, have at it. I love LeMond bikes as do quite a few others in here. And, as suggested earlier, you may get some good advice from the Clydesdale Forums too.

Good Luck and Cheers!

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Last edited by baj32161; 07-04-07 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 07-01-07, 07:59 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. The guys at the bike shop didnt do any measurements on me. They sorta ploped me on one of their two Etapes and said "how does that feel"? And they sorta eye balled it. I test drove the 59 size.

If you tell me how to measure my insteam and I told you guys would you give me a better idea on what size etape would be good? Being 3 or 4 inches taller than baj32161 that might warrent a 59 size over the 57 size that he tried on. But I guess everyone is different.

Also: Does any online shops sell Etapes via mail?

Ill try that other website thanks!
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Old 07-01-07, 09:49 PM
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The major bike mfgrs do not allow their bikes to be sold online to protect their local dealers. This is a good thing. You need the expertise of the bike shop to get you on the right bike and get it fit to you. They may swap out the stem to make it fit better. Shops don't make too much money on bikes anyway. It's all the accessories that are marked up double+ where they make money. Still, you'll be able to take your bike back to the shop for minor adjustments for life--most lbs do that.

Seems like the 59 might be the one, 3-4 inches would definitely put you in a larger size. And Lemonds run long in the top tube, so it will feel more like a 60 or 61.
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Old 07-02-07, 08:46 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

I measured me inseam and i am 36 inches ( I have long legs!) But is that long comparitive to my hight? I want to make sure the ride will be as confortable as possible.

The shop said that I get a 15% discount on all purchases for a whole year with the purchase of a bike which sorta leads me to belive they have overpriced goods that I could buy online for way cheaper.

What kind of shorts do you suggest? I don't want anything to expensive (no more than 45 dollars) but I want the shorts to help with custoning so my butt doesnt hurt.

I was looking at these:
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=1120
Does the gel insert thing really help?

How about a helment? Is it one-size fits all kind of thing? I sorta have a skinny head that is long.

I want to get a computer also but I want to keep it under 30 dollars. Only really want to know speed average/max and trip miliage.

Ill probably get this short sleeve jersey.
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=1110

It rained today so I didnt go to the bikeshop for a test drive.

Ill keep you posted. Any advice would be great! Do you still think the 59 size will suffice being I have a inseam of 36 inches? The bikeshop guy said leg length can be corrected with seat adjustment, and I should focus more on the the horizontal comfort. Makes sense?
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Old 07-02-07, 08:52 PM
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Oh i forgot to ask. I am a bit confused about gearing. The lemond and trek 1000 are 21 speed bikes correct? Why do some people say it is a 8 or 9 speed? I am confused.

They also say that its hard and expensive to upgrade the shifters because of the number of gears or something like that?

I need some clarification, I hope to upgrade to tiagra shifters a year down the road.

Thanks!
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Old 07-02-07, 09:00 PM
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I have those shorts from a few years ago. They're OK. They do cushion your butt for sure. I thought my particular pair have a low back , so my shorter shirts don't cover the back. They may be different now, as that was 2-3 years ago.

I do like their Elite short, which is only $10 more and worth it for sure:

https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=1120

You can find 10% off coupon codes on this web site. Also, since the 4th is coming up, they'll probably have some deal on that day, like free shipping. You can use the coupon code too. You might want to try on some Pearl Izumi shorts locally and then order the next size UP on Performance shorts. I always wear medium PI shorts and large Perf shorts. That's just me though.

Their jerseys are great for the money. For an extra $5 though, I really like the Ultra jersey.

https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=1110

I've seen them as low as $30 before any coupons. But for $5, just go for it and use a coupon code.
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Old 07-02-07, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gui4life
Oh i forgot to ask. I am a bit confused about gearing. The lemond and trek 1000 are 21 speed bikes correct? Why do some people say it is a 8 or 9 speed? I am confused.
They are actually 27

8 speeds in rear....
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Old 07-02-07, 09:06 PM
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When people say 8 or 9 or 10, they're talking about the rear cassette gears. Road bikes have either 2 or 3 front chainrings. So you multiply the number in front by the number in rear to arrive at the total. Minimum on road bikes these days is 16 (8x2) and a max of 30 (10x3). But not all gears are really usable on most bikes. Chains don't like small front chainring and small rear chanring(s), and they don't like large front with large rear ring(s). Something you'll just have to learn through experience. Your bike will provide feedback in the way of noise if it doesn't like a particular combination of gears.
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Old 07-03-07, 08:57 AM
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Thanks for the clarification.

I have a question about the sizing chart. How do I pick what size i need if I cant try it on? I have a 36 waist and my inseam in 36 inseam. I dont want my crack or back showing when im riding. Ill probably get the elite shorts - the padding looks better. I don't know if my local bike shop lets me try on shorts, didnt look like they had any fitting rooms. Maybe ill try a local sporting goods store.


Thanks for the help again. Any input on bike size would be cool.
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Old 07-03-07, 10:19 AM
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"Cheap" on Day One, or "cheap" over the next ten years? Try to figure out where you are going with cycling. How much cycling will you do next year? How much will you be doing five years from now? Try to buy the bike that best meets your future needs, as well as your needs for the next few months.

On a "per year" basis, the "cheapest" good road bike is a Shimano 105 level bike from Trek, Specialized, Giant, Cannondale, or "major" brand, sold at a first quality bike shop in your neighborhood. A Shimano 105 level bike, assembled and tuned by a good bike shop will give you year after year of reliable service. Twenty years from now, your son could be enjoying that bike.

As you move down the ladder, to Tiagra level, Sora level, sub-Sora level, and from top bike shops to discount bike shops, down to E-Bay stores, you save money on the initial purchase price, but you may pay later in terms of service, repairs, and upgrades.

I've seen waay too many folks pay $400 or $500 for a bike, and a year later, they are buying a $1,200 bike, because the cheaper bike did not meet their needs. If you think you will REALLY ride this bike (something like 250 days or 300 days a year, not 20 days a year) buy your "second bike" first, and save money.

Last edited by alanbikehouston; 07-03-07 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 07-03-07, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by bailcash09
They are actually 27

8 speeds in rear....
Let me guess.... 3.375 chainrings?
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Old 07-03-07, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by alanbikehouston
As you move down the ladder, to Tiagra level, Sora level, sub-Sora level, and from top bike shops to discount bike shops, down to E-Bay stores, you save money on the initial purchase price, but you may pay later in terms of service, repairs, and upgrades.
I have to disagree a bit. My third hand-tiagra/sora group is going strong, now on its second frame, a new (to me) 20 year old steel frame. Those groups will last many years with regular maintenance and serve a fitness/recreational cyclist very well.

I think an entry level group is a good idea until you know what you will be doing down the line. Two, three or five years from now the OP might decide to upgrade. A bike depreciates significantly the day it leaves the shop. If he decides he doesn't love riding on the roads, he can sell it without taking such a huge hit in the pocket book. If he decides that he does love it and wants to upgrade, the group will last (and ride well) until he is ready to. Then he can sell it to someone like me looking for a $300 or $400 bike and upgrade, again, with no big hit in the wallet.

Plus, upgrades don't have to cost a fortune if you are patient. I recently upgraded from my Sora hubbed wheels to some Ultegras for $0.
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Old 07-03-07, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bailcash09
They are actually 27

8 speeds in rear....
Errr....24?
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Old 07-03-07, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by gui4life
I liked the Lemond however the shifter design wasnt the best (can't really down shift when your down on the bottom handle postion. I test drove it for about 3 minutes and seemed pretty nice.

That shifter design is Shimano Sora. If you take a step up and get Shimano Tiagra you will avoid that thumb lever.

Originally Posted by gui4life
Anyways - couple of questions.

1) I don't have the best back, its because of slouchy and being lazy and not sitting up straight. What kind of stretches can I do to improve my flexibility that will help me when biking? I have a weight bench also. I need to increase my flexibility alot.
Whatever bike you get have them put the bars about level with the saddle so you dont have to bend over to much.

Originally Posted by gui4life
2) I am fat. Not really a question but more of a problem. I am 6 foot 4 (I am tall.) and I am 220 pounds of non-muscle (just fat!) I got down to 180 pounds last summer but I totally slacked off during winter and went into an extreme depression (and just now trying to be back into shape.) I hope to get myself back down to 175ish and more muscle. I feel so icky. You think a guy in my shape (and tallness) will be able to ride a road bike?
Your not as big as you make yourself seem. I started riding at 6' 280lbs and others (in the clydesdale forum) have started at much higher weights.

You will have no problems with a road bike. People will recomend wheels with more spokes so they are stronger but just ride what comes on the bike untill you have any problems.

Originally Posted by gui4life
3) Is the Lemond Etape a good bike? Ive read the Sticked ( New & Improved : The Under $750 Roadbike Thread) and not very many people talk about the Lemond. Is it a good frame? Will the components suffice? I want a decent starter bike for exersize and fun, I won't be racing.
Yes the Lemong Etape is a good bike. Much better then any walmart bike out there. It has the sora shifters like you noticed. If you go one step up to the Lemond Reno that will have tiagra and a little 105 on it. (The level of components for Shimano is Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra and the best is Dura-Ace)

Originally Posted by gui4life
4) My previous bikes ive had (cheap Walmart mountain bikes and what not) the bike seat always hurt my crotch. Cant really describe where but its like the soft tissue under the crotch. Any suggestions on the type/brand of saddle?
Saddles are very personal. Everyone finds something else comfortable. Good for you there are hundreds of saddles out there. Bad for you there are hundreds of saddles out there so youll have to try some out. A local bike shop should let you test ride it before you buy or have some sort of return policy if you dont like it. Go try some out.

Originally Posted by gui4life
I will go back to the bike shop and try out the Trek 1000 and the Giant OCR3 and the Lemond Etape again. Any advice in the mean time will be very helpful! Thanks!
Im not sure how soon you are looking to buy but you can save TONS of money if you wait for the 2008's to come out and then buy a 2007. As soon as a new model comes out the "old" ones drop in price. I got my Lemond Reno for $650 and MSRP is $909. Its a 2006 and I bought it when the 2007's were out.
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Old 07-03-07, 07:54 PM
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You might want to check out the fit calculator at Competitive Cyclist:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO

My local Specialized dealer did many measurements on me, and when I did this fit calculator just for grins, it matched up very well. So, if your local dealers are all doing the eyeball method, you can at least double check it with this.
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Old 07-04-07, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dagna
You might want to check out the fit calculator at Competitive Cyclist:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO

My local Specialized dealer did many measurements on me, and when I did this fit calculator just for grins, it matched up very well. So, if your local dealers are all doing the eyeball method, you can at least double check it with this.
I did the calculator and I am having trouble comparing it to the Geometry chart at Lemonds site for the Etape. Here are my results:

Measurements
-------------------------------------------
Inseam: 38
Trunk: 27.5
Forearm: 14.5
Arm: 26
Thigh: 27
Lower Leg: 24.5
Sternal Notch: 63
Total Body Height: 76


The Competitive Fit (cm)
-------------------------------------------
Seat tube range c-c: 62.5 - 63.0
Seat tube range c-t: 64.5 - 65.0
Top tube length: 55.8 - 56.2
Stem Length: 12.2 - 12.8
BB-Saddle Position: 85.9 - 87.9
Saddle-Handlebar: 57.3 - 57.9
Saddle Setback: 9.0 - 9.4
Seatpost Type: NON-SETBACK


The Eddy Fit (cm)
-------------------------------------------
Seat tube range c-c: 63.7 - 64.2
Seat tube range c-t: 65.7 - 66.2
Top tube length: 55.8 - 56.2
Stem Length: 11.1 - 11.7
BB-Saddle Position: 85.1 - 87.1
Saddle-Handlebar: 58.1 - 58.7
Saddle Setback: 10.2 - 10.6
Seatpost Type: SETBACK


The French Fit (cm)
-------------------------------------------
Seat tube range c-c: 65.4 - 65.9
Seat tube range c-t: 67.4 - 67.9
Top tube length: 57.0 - 57.4
Stem Length: 11.3 - 11.9
BB-Saddle Position: 83.4 - 85.4
Saddle-Handlebar: 59.8 - 60.4
Saddle Setback: 9.7 - 10.1
Seatpost Type: SETBACK
Thanks for the additional info you guys supplied me.

I don't have the money right now to buy a Reno and I don't want to wait until the new models come out (assuming they come out in December?) How much would it cost to switch over the Sora shifters to Tiagra? Do I have to switch over to a 9 speed? I know it would be benifictial to go ahead and get a bike (like the reno) with them already installed but I can't warrant the purchase, 700 dollars is enough as is!
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Old 07-04-07, 02:38 PM
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You people are tiny. I'm 6'3 and 250 lbs, and I'm by no means ALL fat! Scrawny weasels!
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Old 07-04-07, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gui4life
I did the calculator and I am having trouble comparing it to the Geometry chart at Lemonds site for the Etape. Here are my results:



Thanks for the additional info you guys supplied me.

I don't have the money right now to buy a Reno and I don't want to wait until the new models come out (assuming they come out in December?) How much would it cost to switch over the Sora shifters to Tiagra? Do I have to switch over to a 9 speed? I know it would be benifictial to go ahead and get a bike (like the reno) with them already installed but I can't warrant the purchase, 700 dollars is enough as is!
It would actually be cheaper to buy a bike with a stock Tiagra drivetrain than it would be to upgrade your Sora group to Tiagra. It would also likely be a somewhat senseless upgrade. A better upgrade would be to move up to 105, as that is where you begin to notice a real difference in shifting and overall performance. At <$700 you are pretty much going to find Sora. Believe me, as I said before, there are many folks on here who ride Sora equipped bikes and love them. They have had many hundreds and, in some cases, thousands of miles without any issues. As a beginner, do not get too caught up in the dirvetrain and shifting issues. I am sure you will be fine with a Sora equipped bike.

My backup bike is a Sora equipped bike and I have had zero issues with it.

Cheers,

Brian
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Old 07-04-07, 04:52 PM
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Okay cool. Sound good.
However, what about the fit calculator?
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Old 07-04-07, 04:58 PM
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I have never used the calculator. I suppose if you ride the bike and it feels good to you then that is all the calculator you need.

Good luck to you.

Cheers,

Brian
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Old 07-05-07, 07:37 AM
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Im going to test ride the Trek 1000 and the etape again. Maybe Ill even buy one today!
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