roadrider63

I brought home a Cannondale Synapse yesterday for a test ride. It seemed a bit stretched out for me (top tube w/stem). I was measured twice by two different individuals and they both came up w/ a 56cm frame which does seem find standover wise and all but I feel like I'm really reaching to get in the hoods. I'm going for a longer ride this morning and see what I think.

I'm afraid I have long legs with a short torso. Will this become a problem fitting a bicycle? I measured the CS against my old ten speed I'm riding. Center of head tube to c of seat post seems to be the same length. The difference comes in when I measure from the handle bars to the seat tube. The difference is the length of the stem on the CS. There is basicly no stem on my old bike.

I've seen on here somewhere a list of measurements you can take to help fit a bike. Could someone direct me to that site provide any info. I'm really wanting to grab onto a new bike but don't want something that doesn't fit. I'll probably try a CAAD8 today if I can. I'm hoping that will fit as I think I would prefer that bike. These bikes sure are a big leap from my old steel....lol.

Hocam

I'd go for a frame 1 size down so you can use a reasonable stem length. Seatposts have plenty of room to go higher.

Wesmo15

https://sheldonbrown.com/frames/index.html

If the stem is the problem, you could probably get the LBS to swap out a shorter stem, which should help your stretched out position. The problem is a stem that's too short can have an adverse effect on the bike's handling.

ElJamoquio

+1. Go down a frame size.

Bob Ross

+1 on everyone's contribution so far: A smaller frame size will allow you to dial in the fit via a stem length that doesn't compromise handling. If you keep the current (larger) frame size you'll be forced to use a short stem in order to get the fit right -- and you probably *will* be able to get the fit right -- but with a short stem you may not have enough weight far enough over the front wheel, and this can lead to twitchy handling.

Gromit

+ (whatever number we're at now) for the smaller frame size. I have the same problem - long legs short torso. While my inseam would call for a 57 cm frame, I end up on a 55 to compensate for my challenged reach. The only difference is that you'll have more seat post showing which seems to be in vogue nowadays anyway.

dpr

I had a similar problem with my new Bianchi Via Nirone. I ended up swapping out the 110mm stem for a 90mm and it was much more comfortable holding the hoods. With no real bend in my elbows before, I was getting stiff shoulders. I wouldn't say my bike is now twitchy. The handling is very similar. I also do some mountain biking so I am used to aggressively changing my line on off road terrain.

BassoCoral

I've been through the same issue and tried several different solutions. I've found that short-ish stems (110 mm in my case) don't mess my handling up. People with long legs usually have long arms, too -- even if their torsos are short. Hood position is also huge. If you look at pro road racers these days, you'll see that high hoods predominate. If I have the hoods up relatively high, that makes everything work better. I used to set them up so the bottom tips of the levers were at the same line as the bottom of the bars. Now I set them so high that I can just barely operate them comfortably in the drops.

I've never tried going one frame size down. I tried going two sizes down with a long stem for a while, and it was not good. The handling was weird.

BassoCoral

I've been through the same issue and tried several different solutions. I've found that short-ish stems (110 mm in my case) don't mess my handling up. People with long legs usually have long arms, too -- even if their torsos are short. Hood position is also huge. If you look at pro road racers these days, you'll see that high hoods predominate. If I have the hoods up relatively high, that makes everything work better. I used to set them up so the bottom tips of the levers were at the same line as the bottom of the bars. Now I set them so high that I can just barely operate them comfortably in the drops.

I've never tried going one frame size down. I tried going two sizes down with a long stem for a while, and it was not good. The handling was weird.

jimbud

In reality you need to get down to a 60mm stem before you start getting a twitchy feel or handling on a road bike. Any stem longer then that should be fine on most road bikes.

roadrider63

Just got back from a 10 mile quickie. Adjustments to stem, hood position, etc may help but as it is I'll be searching for a different bike. The backs of my shoulders were aching a bit and my perrinium (sp?) felt smashed from leaning forward. And I don't mind being bent over, but I couldn't roll my back at all to take up vibration and keep my bones on the saddle correctly. Going to take the bike back this morning and see what they can do or try some others. The 25.00 take it home and test drive deal is pretty nice. Bad thing is, if I don't buy there, I lose the money. Otherwise it comes off the cost when I buy a bike. Nice bike shop though...IMO. Thanks for all your help. BTW, The synapse is a nice ride though. And shifting the 105's compared to my friction on the head tube shifters is awesome...lol. Much easier to hold your cadence.

See ya.

Longfemur

Don't keep any bike that makes you use a stem which is not in the 90-110 mm range (or 80-100 for a small frame). It means you are compensating for a too long or too short top tube length. If you're going to get a nice road bike, it may as well be the right size for you. Extremely short or extremely long stems are fine if you absolutely must get an existing bike to fit, but not if you're buying a new one. They were necessary a long time ago when production bike frames all had the same top tube length no matter what size of frame it was, but not with today's proportionally correct frames.

But of course, you have to realize that with a road bike, you are supposed to have to reach slightly for the brakes. It might feel a little stretched at first if you're not used to it. Put your bike up against a wall at home, and somehow put a mirror on the other side so you can see yourself. Get on the bike in your riding position on the hoods. If your back is anywhere at an angle of 45 to 50 degrees, that should be about right for normal, every day non racers. If it's not but you can get it that way with a different stem within the ranges I mentioned, then you are fine with that frame. If you can't, then the frame is not the right length for you. To help with this, you can pre-draw 45 and 50 degree lines on a bristol board taped to the wall behind you.

By the way, also keep in mind that a higher/lower stem can have the same effect as a longer/shorter stem.

idcruiserman

Going one size down and bringing up the seat post is only half a solution. The drop to the bars is going to be steep. See if you can find a bike with a shorter top tube. Stay away from LeMond.

Longfemur

By the way, while almost every bike shop in the world will think of frame size as seat tube length, as far as that goes, any size is just fine if you can stand over it in your bare feet. Top tube length is a lot more important, because there's way more room for adjusting seat post than there is for adjusting either stem height or stem length.

Cain

What bike brands typically have a shorter top tube that are not "touring" frames?

ROJA

I've heard Felts have long top tubes, so you'll probably want to avoid that brand as well. Try riding a Scott if you can, as I think they might have shorter top tubes (IIRC).

Murrays

+1 on the smaller frame.

Here's a good article to read and take along if your LBS doesn't want to fit you properly (which seems to be the case based on your comments): https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

-murray

AFPJ

What the...what forum is this!?

Bob Ross

Incorrect.

OCRider2000

You can put your faith in the guys at the LBS and hope for the best or you can educate yourself on proper fit, accurately measure your body\limbs and calculate exactly what combination of top tube length, seat tube angle and head tube length will work for you. Although the latter wil take some time and effort and think its the better way to go. If you know this stuff you are less likely to second guess your eventual selection. Remember when comparing top tube lengths that unless both frames have the same head and seat tube angle then you don't have an apples to apples comparison.

roadrider63

I just got back from the LBS. They're not pressuring me to buy the bike by any means. I talked to the manager who also does the fittings (he said the fittings take about 2 hrs. and he'll work from cleat position to seat, stem length (changed if need be) handlebar width (changed if need be) plus check you posture and how you pedal and give you any help or suggestions that may benefit you. I'm sure I can use all the help I can get. He put a smaller stem (I think 90mm) on and the bike did feel better. I feel I'm at about a 45 degree angle. He said that with my current bike where the handle bar is basicly right on top of the head tube that I may actually be cramped up. I'll have to find some pictures of riders from the side and see what they look like.

I have tried to educate myself as much as possible on aspects of road bikes. I can't find the link to how you measure yourself to calculate top tube length, etc. Would be nice to know. Anyway, they're going to hold the bike for a bit while I decide what to do. They did knock some cash off since it's an 07'.

Thanks very much for all of your help.

dpr

I chuckled.

Murrays

Measuring various body parts and using online calculators might get you in the ballpark for bike sizes, but ultimately there are too many other hard to measure variables. Your flexibility, pedaling style, goals, riding style, etc. will all influence your bike fit. Heck, you'll even feel quite a bit different at the beginning of the season vs. the middle or end of the season.

The Peter White article I linked will help you educate yourself which will be a benefit when you get a fitting from the manager.

-murray

VegaVixen

I went to an LBS owned by a UCI-certified mechanic who knows how to take body measurements for a bike. He spent about 15 minutes making measurements, then ran calculations based on his experience (which includes fitting elite pro's to their bikes for over 16 years), and then sat with me for about a half-hour discussing the results, and making sure he understood my goals and my current degree of flexibility, and making sure I understood all his numbers. From that, I was told, I could go with confidence into any LBS, in person or on-line, and get the right bike. According to my cycling inseam (84cm) he said I should ride a 55cm frame, with max standover of 78cm. My femur length is 38cm, arm length 62cm, torso 58cm, shoulder width 42cm.

I ended up finding the bike I really wanted at another LBS. It's a 56cm frame with relaxed geometry (so standover isn't an issue). I had the original 100mm stem swapped out for a 90mm to get me close to the mechanic's recommended TT + stemlength of 68.4cm. With 172.5mm cranks, a zero-offset seatpost, and a bit of seat adjustment (nose slightly down so as to take pressure off my nethers following removal of all the spacers), I am dialed in.

I recommend you go the same route. Find a UCI- or USCF-certified mechanic who does more than trial-and-error fitting. This cost me just $40, and was well worth it. I'll be going back to him when I'm ready to buy a TT bike. In this case, he'll put me on whichever TT bike I buy (based on measurements taken beforehand), and then dial me in.

Good luck, and don't settle. Get the bike that ultimately fits you with proper parts and adjustments. When you do, the only pain you'll feel is from hard training, and not from the bike.

uspspro

Generally true.

However I would say this is not a rule cast in stone.

I have short legs for my height, so I downsize the frame and run a longer stem.

I use a 52 cm frame. I am comfortable on a 110mm stem, but a 120mm feels better.

I think the 52cm frame and 120mm stem is a better fit for me then a 54cm with a shorter stem.

Just elaborating, the 90-110mm recommendation is a still good one!


To the OP, I would downsize the frame and try a stem like a 110 or 100.