Building my own wheels with a $400 budget
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Flatland hack
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Building my own wheels with a $400 budget
I know we've had a lot of wheel threads recently, but hear me out. I couldnt find what i was looking for with the search.
I have 1400 miles on my crappy entry level alex rims, and they're starting to show the wear and tear. I just had them trued again recently, but they just dont seem to roll well or stay true for long periods. Im guessing aside from the cheap rims, the hubs are bottom of the barrel too. I'd like to have a crack at building my own wheels, and figure that i can get a final tention/trueing from the shop if need be.
I live in Ohio (read: flat), weigh 185lbs, and am a bit of a masher. Here's what i would like -
- 40mm deep, although would settle for 30mm
- Low spoke count for a 185lbs rider (i know at my weight i cant go crazy low)
- Campy compatible hub
- Tough enough for everyday riding
- 1500g or less, preferably less
- Not adverse to tubulers, but for convienience would like clincher
Suggestions on rims/hubs/spokes? Can it be done on a $400 budget if i build them myself? If not, how close to my wish list can i get, and what am i looking at dollar wise to get what i want?
Thanks guys.
I have 1400 miles on my crappy entry level alex rims, and they're starting to show the wear and tear. I just had them trued again recently, but they just dont seem to roll well or stay true for long periods. Im guessing aside from the cheap rims, the hubs are bottom of the barrel too. I'd like to have a crack at building my own wheels, and figure that i can get a final tention/trueing from the shop if need be.
I live in Ohio (read: flat), weigh 185lbs, and am a bit of a masher. Here's what i would like -
- 40mm deep, although would settle for 30mm
- Low spoke count for a 185lbs rider (i know at my weight i cant go crazy low)
- Campy compatible hub
- Tough enough for everyday riding
- 1500g or less, preferably less
- Not adverse to tubulers, but for convienience would like clincher
Suggestions on rims/hubs/spokes? Can it be done on a $400 budget if i build them myself? If not, how close to my wish list can i get, and what am i looking at dollar wise to get what i want?
Thanks guys.
#2
Making a kilometer blurry
Campy loose-ball hubs (fill up your budget), 24h front, 28h rear, Velocity Deep-V, and DT-Swiss 2.0/1.8/2.0, 3x rear, radial front (assuming hubs are ok with that).
You'll love them to death.
I'd recommend 32h front and rear, but the Deep-Vs will be ok at your weight with fewer, since you want a low count. They're 30mm deep, and I think you'll have a tough time finding loose 40mm AL rims, as they would get pretty heavy.
You'll love them to death.
I'd recommend 32h front and rear, but the Deep-Vs will be ok at your weight with fewer, since you want a low count. They're 30mm deep, and I think you'll have a tough time finding loose 40mm AL rims, as they would get pretty heavy.
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Thanks for the reply. I don't know all the ins and outs of road wheels.
The deep-Vs seem very affordable, and its the hubs that fill up the budget you say. Anything 40mm thats roughly the same stiffness/weight just for comparisons sake? Or to go 40mm im looking at carbon, and that blows my budget to hell, or relegates me back to cheap hubs?
eta - since i seem to be filling up my budget with hubs, could i drop my budget a little and still get good campy compatible hubs?
The deep-Vs seem very affordable, and its the hubs that fill up the budget you say. Anything 40mm thats roughly the same stiffness/weight just for comparisons sake? Or to go 40mm im looking at carbon, and that blows my budget to hell, or relegates me back to cheap hubs?
eta - since i seem to be filling up my budget with hubs, could i drop my budget a little and still get good campy compatible hubs?
Last edited by Flak; 08-19-07 at 01:59 PM.
#4
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32H Mavic CXP 33s, Campy Chorus (or Centaur) hubs, 14/15 double butted spokes (I like DT Swiss).
#5
Making a kilometer blurry
Yeah, reduce the budget to the cheapest loose ball hubs you can buy. The only penalty is weight. They're really durable. Maybe replace the balls with high-end balls (Record) at the first service after 6 months or so. Make sure you keep the adjusted meticulously -- loose with play when off the bike, but the QR just barely removes the play when tight.
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Whats the advantage of loose over sealed? I was under the impression that sealed were pretty good these days.
eltwe - arent those cross rims? Or at my weight, anythign i ride is rated for cyclocross?
eltwe - arent those cross rims? Or at my weight, anythign i ride is rated for cyclocross?
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+1 with the only exception being 2x rear. I had a set of 28h Deep V rims and 2x is closer to tangential than 3x because of the deep rim section. As mentioned above, those rims will hold up well at your weight. I suspect the final product will come in around 1600g for the pair, though, which is really quite light for deep rims.
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#8
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I'd be happy with 1600g
So thats the concensus then? Deep Vs are the rims to go with? No other contenders?
So thats the concensus then? Deep Vs are the rims to go with? No other contenders?
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On a budget, Deep Vs will be great. They're strong and not too heavy. You could shave about 100g off by getting the Niobium 30 rims https://oddsandendos.safeshopper.com/9/130.htm?947 for about $30 more if you want. That might bring you under 1600 while the Deep Vs will have you in the mid to high 1600s. I'm pretty sure they will flex a little more under your weight (but not break)
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Heres just some info for help on choosing spoke count.
Originally Posted by sheldonbrown.com
If you want highest performance, it is generally best to have more spokes in the rear wheel than the front. For instance, 28/36 is better than 32/32 People very rarely have trouble with front wheels:
Front wheels are symmetrically dished
Front wheels carry less weight
Front wheels don't have to deal with torsional loads (unless there's a hub brake)
If you have the same number of spokes front and rear, either the front wheel is heavier than it needs to be, or the rear wheel is weaker than it should be.
Front wheels are symmetrically dished
Front wheels carry less weight
Front wheels don't have to deal with torsional loads (unless there's a hub brake)
If you have the same number of spokes front and rear, either the front wheel is heavier than it needs to be, or the rear wheel is weaker than it should be.
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You wont hit that weight target with Velocity Deep Vs. Go for the Niobium 30 deep Vs. They are >100g lighter per rim than the Velocity. I have them on my fixie and they are very nice.
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That's why I recommended the CXP 33 - significantly lighter than the Deep V. It's used in cyclocross, but that doesn't make it a cyclocross-specific rim.
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Yeah, reduce the budget to the cheapest loose ball hubs you can buy. The only penalty is weight. They're really durable. Maybe replace the balls with high-end balls (Record) at the first service after 6 months or so. Make sure you keep the adjusted meticulously -- loose with play when off the bike, but the QR just barely removes the play when tight.
https://www.mcmaster.com/
Edit:+1 for less spokes up front than in rear, unless you want a pretty radial pattern up front, then you will need more for the same strength as a cross pattern.
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Incorrect. A front wheel will be as strong radially laced as it will be crossed.
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#17
Making a kilometer blurry
Wow, I've never looked before. They don't make 'em. I guess you could swing a 16h front and 18h rear pretty easily though
That's actually very sensible of Campy to only offer 32h and 36h. Spokes are underrated by everyone else.
That's actually very sensible of Campy to only offer 32h and 36h. Spokes are underrated by everyone else.
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Record hubs came in 24, 28, 32, 36 and 40 hole drillings.
https://www.campyonly.com/history/catalogs.html , catalog 18. I'm sure someone smarter than me can say when they stopped making them.
https://www.campyonly.com/history/catalogs.html , catalog 18. I'm sure someone smarter than me can say when they stopped making them.
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I'm pretty sure Shimano does the same thing.
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Is there anything wrong with Veloce or Centaur hubs (they're the same weight apparently)? Would they be a good buy? Im thinking i might be able to shrink the cost down to $300.
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No...the new Centaur hubs are very nice.
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I actually had a hard time finding a front hub in 24, then I found an NOS Record hub from the 80s and used that. Finding a rear 28h was easy. Also, remember that you can use any brand front hub if you're not bent on it matching the rear completely.
Just get the Record hubs, because the upgrade bug will bite you if you don't and you'll want to build up a whole new set. If you really think you can be happy with Veloce or Centaur, they are fine products, but I tried that and couldn't wait to build a better pair of wheels later.
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#24
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Looking at the the campy site, there doesnt seem to be any difference between the veloce and centaur. Know anything i dont?