Adjusted Saddle Height
10-02-07, 04:19 PM
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Adjusted Saddle Height
ok, after a couple of comments on the height of my saddle, i raised it a little bit (~5mm) and took some pics. it didn't feel like it was too much, but guess that can't really be determined with just riding down the street. i supposes posts such as this should go in the Road forum, but i'll post here anyways.
gonna go ride for a little bit now.
gonna go ride for a little bit now.
10-02-07, 04:33 PM
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if it's too low: you know.
btw - you're right. road forum is the place to ask.
believe it or not, we're not all evil, and if you go to the road racing section, you'll find some people who actually know their stuff.
btw - you're right. road forum is the place to ask.
believe it or not, we're not all evil, and if you go to the road racing section, you'll find some people who actually know their stuff.
10-02-07, 04:36 PM
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Height-wise, it looks much better. Enough to extend your leg without locking your knee. (At least, that's what I've been told.)
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10-02-07, 04:57 PM
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Try puttin' it on your trainer, put your right foot at 3-o'clock (as seen from the drive-train side), and drop a plumbob from front of your knee. That line should go through your pedal spindle when you're sitting in your usual position in the saddle. If not, adjust forward and backward as needed. You height looks pretty good, but you're the best judge of that....
10-02-07, 05:18 PM
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re: road forum...botto is correct
. i'll post it there or the mods can move it, which may be better.
BWNC, the cranks are 170's.
. i'll post it there or the mods can move it, which may be better.BWNC, the cranks are 170's.
10-02-07, 05:24 PM
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10-02-07, 05:33 PM
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Seat height looks better, but now it looks like you may be stretched out too much. Tis a dark art ye be triflin' with.
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10-02-07, 05:43 PM
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Unless I'm setting a bike up for sprinting, or a similar event like crit, I like the saddle a little more aft of the KOPS position. You have to go with what works for you though.
edit: Too stretched out.
this all has to do with how strong your back is, how limber you are, and what you'll be using the bike for. For sub 2 hour events or a lot of hard charging WP'll probably be fine as it is. For centuries, you're right, it may become a little uncomfortable.
10-02-07, 05:44 PM
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Well, there's no "one" right or perfect set-up for everyone. Beginners and enthusiasts will find that KOPS works great and prevents a lot of knee-injuries. Racers and very experienced riders with strength-training and fluid-smooth pedal-strokes will be more efficient slightly behind KOPS. But I would err on the side of being too far forward and enhancing spin-ability and lowering chances of knee-injury rather than sitting too far backwards.
WP and her position looks good though.
WP and her position looks good though.
10-02-07, 09:11 PM
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Ride it a bit and see how it feels. And not a century as a test ride either. Just a nice jaunt. To me it looks like you are a bit stretched out and the saddle should come forward a bit and the height looks about right. Remember every time you raise the saddle you move the seat back a bit. Your arms should have a bit of bend at the elbows.
10-02-07, 09:34 PM
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worked for me, for whatever reason!
You need to see if your leg movement really works, and perhaps get a shop to measure your knee angle, to get a good check on saddle position. That setting helped me the most!
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10-02-07, 10:06 PM
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Looks fine to me.
You'll know if it's not right cuz you'll start to have knee pain or other problems, like low back pain. Deal with that then. Otherwise, just ride into it. If it's a good fit, the more time you spend in that position, the better it'll feel, IMO.
Now, go ride lots!
You'll know if it's not right cuz you'll start to have knee pain or other problems, like low back pain. Deal with that then. Otherwise, just ride into it. If it's a good fit, the more time you spend in that position, the better it'll feel, IMO.
Now, go ride lots!
10-02-07, 10:53 PM
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Ride it a bit and see how it feels. And not a century as a test ride either. Just a nice jaunt. To me it looks like you are a bit stretched out and the saddle should come forward a bit and the height looks about right. Remember every time you raise the saddle you move the seat back a bit. Your arms should have a bit of bend at the elbows.
How are those American Classics holding up? You're gonna make this clyde go buy some, aintcha
10-03-07, 05:59 AM
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those AC's are doing great!
as far as adjusting, i took a short ride last night, 10mi, and felt fine albet a tad stretched out as some have mentioned. i've got right knee issues right now that im trying to resolve, and i'm not sure if it was something to do with setup or not. no low back pain from riding.
the cranks/inseam...170mm & my inseam, per a measurement from bike fitting last year (different bike) was 80.5cm (31.69in) which is pretty close to what i just roughly measured (2'8").
as far as adjusting, i took a short ride last night, 10mi, and felt fine albet a tad stretched out as some have mentioned. i've got right knee issues right now that im trying to resolve, and i'm not sure if it was something to do with setup or not. no low back pain from riding.
the cranks/inseam...170mm & my inseam, per a measurement from bike fitting last year (different bike) was 80.5cm (31.69in) which is pretty close to what i just roughly measured (2'8").
10-03-07, 06:13 AM
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I'd go to a shop and have them adjust it to you, but it looks to me like the saddle is too high. Your left leg looks extended almost all the way, but the crank is only at the 7 'o clock position. Though in the second pic your right leg looks like it's bent at the 6 'o clock. Maybe your left leg is longer lol. If your hips rock side to side when you pedal you know it's too high.
10-03-07, 10:15 AM
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A rider's position on a bike depends on his or her goals. For pro riders (and the 98.5% of roadies who like to pretend to be a pro rider), the main goal is getting an "aero" position...useful for riding at speeds of 25 mph to 35 mph.
For those folks who ride for fitness and relaxation, the bike should be set up for comfort, both during the first hour of the ride, and after the second, the third...
In your photos, your arms and legs are "locked". For a comfortable ride, especially after the second hour, riding with the arms relaxed, and a distinct bend at the elbow helps. A relaxed, bent arm absorbs road shock coming up from the fork. Likewise, with the pedal at six o'clock, there should be a small, but distinct bend in the knee. That bend allows your legs to spin rapidly without any side to side hip rocking.
The "locked arms" mean that your "cockpit" is too long (the distance from the back of the saddle to the front of the stem). So, you need to raise your bars about an inch, and you may need to bring your saddle forward an inch (pro riders position the saddle for power and speed...sprinters move it forward, mountain climbers move it back...the REST of us should position the saddle for maximum comfort). If you can't get a "relaxed arm" position with those two changes, you will need to get a stem that is about an inch shorter, to move the bars closer to the saddle.
The "locked knee" mean your saddle is too high. Drop your saddle about half an inch or 3/4th of an inch to get that distinct bend in the knee. That bend also means that you can raise your rear half an inch off the saddle when you are going over rough pavement. Again, ultra high saddles are for racing and pretend racing...most of us don't have a racing license. The combination of riding with a slightly bent knee and riding a high cadence in easy gears will build your physical condition while eventually curing you of your current knee discomfort.
With some trial and error, you will get a set up that lets ride in comfort for hours. After you dial that position in, measure the distance from the bottom bracket bolt the top of the saddle to 1/4th inch, and write it down. Measure the distance from the back edge of the saddle to the front of the saddle (your cockpit length) and write it down. If you know those two measurements to within 1/4th inch, you can set up any road bike you ride in the future in just five minutes to fit just as nicely as your "perfect" bike.
For those folks who ride for fitness and relaxation, the bike should be set up for comfort, both during the first hour of the ride, and after the second, the third...
In your photos, your arms and legs are "locked". For a comfortable ride, especially after the second hour, riding with the arms relaxed, and a distinct bend at the elbow helps. A relaxed, bent arm absorbs road shock coming up from the fork. Likewise, with the pedal at six o'clock, there should be a small, but distinct bend in the knee. That bend allows your legs to spin rapidly without any side to side hip rocking.
The "locked arms" mean that your "cockpit" is too long (the distance from the back of the saddle to the front of the stem). So, you need to raise your bars about an inch, and you may need to bring your saddle forward an inch (pro riders position the saddle for power and speed...sprinters move it forward, mountain climbers move it back...the REST of us should position the saddle for maximum comfort). If you can't get a "relaxed arm" position with those two changes, you will need to get a stem that is about an inch shorter, to move the bars closer to the saddle.
The "locked knee" mean your saddle is too high. Drop your saddle about half an inch or 3/4th of an inch to get that distinct bend in the knee. That bend also means that you can raise your rear half an inch off the saddle when you are going over rough pavement. Again, ultra high saddles are for racing and pretend racing...most of us don't have a racing license. The combination of riding with a slightly bent knee and riding a high cadence in easy gears will build your physical condition while eventually curing you of your current knee discomfort.
With some trial and error, you will get a set up that lets ride in comfort for hours. After you dial that position in, measure the distance from the bottom bracket bolt the top of the saddle to 1/4th inch, and write it down. Measure the distance from the back edge of the saddle to the front of the saddle (your cockpit length) and write it down. If you know those two measurements to within 1/4th inch, you can set up any road bike you ride in the future in just five minutes to fit just as nicely as your "perfect" bike.
Last edited by alanbikehouston; 10-03-07 at 10:20 AM.
10-03-07, 10:27 AM
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One thing I can add from riding with WP a couple of times is she tends to ride with toes pointed down. That seems to be her preferred natural pedal stroke. We talked about trying to drop the heal a bit more when climbing and in doing so may be the source of some back of the leg discomfort. It takes time for the body to adjust to any change in technique or position.
10-03-07, 10:41 AM
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Take another pic with the pedals at 3 and 9. I agree with the poster who said your saddle looks too far back.
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10-03-07, 01:52 PM
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well, the saddle is a PITA to adjust. it's a 2 bolt seatpost and i recently changed saddles and had a hella time getting the current one level. i know it could prolly be moved forward a little bit, but i haven't done so due to the PITA it is to do so. guess i can try it this weekend as it did feel like i was stretched out a bit more.
10-03-07, 02:29 PM
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10-03-07, 02:37 PM
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One thing I can add from riding with WP a couple of times is she tends to ride with toes pointed down. That seems to be her preferred natural pedal stroke. We talked about trying to drop the heal a bit more when climbing and in doing so may be the source of some back of the leg discomfort. It takes time for the body to adjust to any change in technique or position.