Shelton

Hello,

I've lurked around Bikeforums for a little while. It seems like a great community. I know the “First road bike” threads probably get pretty old, but I've searched the archives pretty heavily and I now have some specific questions.

I am totally new to biking. The only bikes I've ever owned are single speed BMX bikes, and that was in Jr. High School and earlier (Many, many years ago). All my friends owned bikes and even cycled competitively, but I always got around on roller blades. Odd, considering that I grew up in Davis, CA.
I am an athlete and a runner, and I want to become a cyclist. I live for physical activity, and I love the idea of getting a bike, but it is a little overwhelming.

I've gone to my LBS a couple times, and they have several bikes I am interested in. I am specifically looking at a Trek 1.2, Giant OCR 3, and a “Last Years” Trek 1500 (The last years trek is in my size). They've done some rough fitting and determined that I ride a 58 on a trek. I know the 1500 is probably a better value for the money, considering the better components. I have not yet test ridden them yet, which I plan to do before I buy. Fit is the most important thing to me.

With that said, would I notice a difference between the 1.2 and the 1500? I am a very poor college student. This bike will be used for training, some distance, commuting, maybe racing and group rides for cycling clubs (When I get good enough). It is around 200 dollars more for the 1500, which really pushes the limits of my budget (I will have to buy accessories and extras slowly and over time). If I got the 1.2 or OCR3, I could afford about 200 in basic accessories.

Second, my LBS wants around 1,020 out the door (Tax included) for the last years Trek 1500. That seems a little high, but I don't really know market values. I am way too poor to get taken to town on a deal. I've worked inordinately hard to save up around 1,000 bucks for my first bike and every penny counts.

I will also be going carless, so this bike will be my ONLY means of transportation.

I would love to get some input from everyone. I am hoping to purchase by Monday. I have dreams about cycling now. I can't wait to get some saddle time.

Thanks,
Shelton

johnny99

Looks like the Trek 1.2 is the new name for the old Trek 1000 entry-level bike. The frame is probably comparable to the Trek 1500, but the 1.2 will have an heavier and cheaper 8-speed drivetrain. The 1500 will have a 9-speed drivetrain. 8-speeds is fine for a recreational rider. I know people who do 100 mile day rides on bikes similar to the Trek 1000. Racers will usually want 10-speeds because that reduces the spacing between gears so you can more easily ride with the pack at your preferred cadence.

The Giant OCR will have a more upright riding position, like the Trek Pilot. You will need to take some test rides to see what riding position you like better.

PerhamBiker

If you're that tight with money you might want to start with the Trek 1000. Do they have any 2007 models left? You can get out the door with that for around $700, which will leave you with enough to buy any accessories you may need: shorts, other clothing, shoes etc.

I left my 20 year old Nishiki Olympic for the Trek 1000 this Spring and I have loved it all year. It's a perfect place to start for someone just breaking into, or breaking back into, cycling.

I don't know if you need to carry anything on the bike. I guess you can if you need to. I keep a change of clothes at work so I just have a small saddle bag. If I can only have one bike I'm going with a road bike.

Have fun shopping.

Shelton

Thanks for the replies! All the info I can get is incredibly helpful.

Does 1020 out the door sound like a reasonable deal for a Trek 1500?

PerhamBiker

Probably. But I can say that I had that same offer from my LBS back in May, and I think they could go a little lower based on the lateness of the year and the new models coming in. Is it a 2007 or 2008?

It's not a bad price, but it puts you at the limit of your budget or a little beyond.

Tunnelrat81

$1050 is the price I've seen that bike going for everywhere. Even look around at online stores, 1050. Same price. Probably fair, but not spectacular. It sounds like the number one interest here is the price point, which tells me (as an ex-motorcycle rider also) that you REALLY should buy below your limit so that you can get set up with the necessities without having to wait. You'll want pedals/shoes/helmet/shorts/jersey. All of these things you can find on discount and you should be able to get pretty much all of it through nashbar/performance/pbk.com or sierratradingpost.com for around 200. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people riding a financed sportbike around without a 'decent' helmet or leather jacket. The same goes for cycling. If you want to enjoy and survive cycling, you'll need those essentials, so don't spend it all before you have them. Once you've got the accessories, you'll be more likely to stick with cycling long term.

One thing you may not have considered yet is buying used. Myself and most of my friends have had great success buying used. It takes more time and patience but we've gotten some screamin' deals and still had the money to buy the rest of what we need. Most of us are either students or fresh off of being students. This may be an especially good idea in your area if road cycling is a huge sport. Buying locally used bikes allows you to try them out before buying to make sure the fit will work, and you can usually find a friend who rides to go with you and give you advice on how worn out parts may be or whether a deal is worth the money. When used bike shopping I'll spend 10 minutes a few times a day scrolling through local craigslist regions for new postings until I find something in the right size/specs/price. It's not easy, but if your patient, you can get alot more bike for the money.

Good luck with the hunt, and let us know when you finally decide.

-Jeremy

MrCjolsen

Buying used is better than getting the cheapest of the cheap with regard to a road bike. For <$500, you can get a pretty nice 80's or early 90's Raliegh, Trek, Centurion, Nishiki etc.

The thing with a used bike is that, unlike a used car, serious flaws usually present themselves readily if you know where to look. Basically as long as there's no rust, and everything turns and moves only in the direction it's supposed to -- in other words, the wheels and cranks turn around easily but do not move sideways at all -- then it should be generally sound.

Here's what you need to look for on a used road bike:

The shifters should be on the downtubes, not on the bars unless they are out on the very ends.
The wheels should be 700c. It's good if the rims are double walled and of course straight and true.
Best if the frame is steel.
No "Ashtabula" or cottered cranks.
It should have aero brake hoods.
No "suicide levers"
Suntour and Shimano components good - especially if the Suntour is "Cyclone" or the Shimano is "600." Campagnolo is even better, but the owner will proably want a lot for the bike.

All of these things are indicators that the bike came from a bike shop, not a department store, and is reasonably "modern." They also mean that it's possible to upgrade the parts if you want to at a later time.

Finally, go and ride a few new bikes at shops if for no other reason than to see what size you are. When you ride a bike that is comfortable, measure the length of the top tube on the bike and the stem (the LBS should have that info.) When you look at a used bike, take a tape measure. With luck, it should be about the same.

Second Mouse

Here's an '07 1500 for $850, if you happen to live in Minnesota. Regardless, you should be able to get your LBS to knock off 10%, or include some accessories--pedals, bottle cages, seat bag, patch kit, pump/CO2, etc. That's my 2¢, anyway.

Cheers.

zencadance

Get a cheap bike for replacing your car,for rain days ,bad roads ,maybe it gets ripped off.Buy a nicer bike for training and riding pleasure.

Shelton

Hello everyone!

I got my very first road bike, a Trek 1500! I went to my LBS today to test ride the Trek 1500, Giant OCR3 and Trek 1.2. I was leaning heavily toward the Trek 1.2 or OCR3 to save money, but test riding the bikes sealed the deal for the 1500. The 1.2 and OCR3 were very noticeably heavier; I noticed this when picking up and riding the bikes. Though weight isn't a big deal for me, I did notice it. One of the things that really did bother me about the OCR3 and 1.2 was the thumb shifters. They didn't feel nearly as intuitive and comfortable as the shifters on the 105 equipped 1500. Also, the shifting on the OCR3 and the 1.2 didn't feel nearly as smooth. There was more noise while shifting and the shifting didn't seem as responsive. While this was probably just a tuning issue and not inherent to Sora derailleurs, it did put me off a little. The 1500 just felt a bit smoother and tighter, and it fit me flawlessly. I figured for around 150 more, I should get the 1500 if it feels so much better. I love it.

I rode the bike home, only 3 miles, but it felt amazing. I made it home in around the same time it would have taken to drive. It is incredible. I actually had no idea what a viable transportation method cycling could be. I am also not used to using the muscle groups that cycling requires. I am an avid runner, but I can't remember the last time my quads felt tight. Even after a 3 mile ride, my quads felt great (tight).

The only accessory I could afford was a Joe Blow floor pump. I will be able to get the rest of my required gear in a couple weeks. I am ready to cycle, and I can't wait.

Thanks for all the help. This is a great community and I look forward to learning from it and participating in it.

-Shelton

Hickeydog

I would go to the LBS and offer them $900 out the door for the Trek. I bought an 07 1500 for $950 2 months ago. All the bikes you listed are good, just MAKE SURE THEY FIT!! Take all of them on extended rides and choose the one that you feel the most comfortable on.

late

Great,
don't forget you will need a helmet. At some point you will fall down, and when
you do you also want to be wearing gloves. Your bike shop should cut you a deal on both. The price of the helmet has nothing to do with the performance. A cheap helmet won't ventilate as well, might be a little heaver. That's it.

At some point you will also want cycling shorts. Oh, and a lock.

Yep

I just moved out of Sacramento and I miss it already. That area is a cycling mecca, especially if you're serious about getting into racing. Enjoy.

beeballman

$1020 out the door is probably pretty close if that counts the tax included. They ar going for $999 at my local shop marked down from the $1050.00 Trek 1500 was my first good road bike and I love it. Nice fit, Nice ride. I looked at the Trek 1000 as well, but liked the upgraded shifters of the 1500. Good luck, happy hunting and happy riding.