slimvela

Update: SS Chain Ring is on order, running a 52/42 on there now. Using a 42/16 combo at the moment, wil be moving to a 44/16 combo when the new ring arrives. As Stated before, this was built with extra parts/pieces from my first roadie (Fuji Roubaix) and converted for less tha $60.

Thank you for the advice all gave, it helped in my quest to build a new ride.

Some pics for viewing pleasure, well not really. Camera is 6yrs old and poor lighting, maybe the obligatory "Garage Door" shot tomorrow.






Head tube "grimmacing eyes" are currently comprised of stickers; soon to be replaced with airbrushed version

ruppster

Generally, as short & tight as possible. How close are you to not needing the tensioner? 1/2 links are great things. You probably have looked at this: Vertical Dropouts It is a pretty nice calculator.

vpiuva

Boo creepy chain tensioner But even when using a magic gear on vertical dropouts chain stretch will get you. I'd be surprised if sheldon doesn't address this. Read his page.

Duke of Kent

I was told that you are supposed to put the biggest rear cog you envision using on the bike. Then, put the chain on the chainring and cog, and measure it out so that, going through the tensioner, you have two extra links. Or one "complete" link, depending on how you view it. That way, if you put on a smaller rear cog for a bigger gear inch ratio, the tensioner can pull back sufficiently.

So: 53x22, add two links. The tensioner is should be at a pretty acute angle to the chainstay. 53x17, and it's pointing almost straight towards the ground.

ruppster

I'm not against tensioners, just don't use one if you don't need it. I prefer not to need them. I have honestly been lucky on the 4 I've converted. On one I did have to massge the dropouts with a file to make up for the chain stretch like you mentioned.
But I like fixed better so the tensioner is not really an option.

slimvela

So, am correct in assuming that it can be done without using the tensioner? Hmmm, interesting. I'll have to do some calculating and see what can be done.

As for the aforementioned post about the angle of the tensioner in relation to cog sizes; that's pretty much where it is at the moment.

Thanks for the information gents, it really does help.

roadfix

The angle of the tensioner is not critical as long as the cog gets a nice wrap of the chain.

Psimet2001 

1/2 links are awesome. Changed around my gearing and had a real hard time getting everything to work out right in the new gear. Chain was a tad too long, take out a link, and it's a tad too short. 1/2 link put it right in the middle where it needed to be.

slimvela

This is something that I "figured out" earlier today when "testing". not enought wrap made for skipping...lol


Now as far as gear inches are concerned, what is generally the target you're looking to achieve. According to fixed innovations site, a 52x17 would put me right at 80" with 16.142in chain stay. Should I play around with that for starters, or bump down to a 42x16 to start off? Those two combos are what I'm looking at for the moment.

Before anyone writes it, I know it's all my preference regardless what others have to say. But I would appreciate a little advice/input from others.

Remember, this is my first venture with a SS so I'm not looking to kill my knees.

Thanks again for the responses thus far.

Psimet2001 

I started with a 42X16. Went to a 42X15 fairly quickly. Could use more gear on it, but I am never really out to set speed records with it.

AEO

go with 42x16 if you know you'll be doing a lot of stop and go's, go 52x17 if you're just going to bomb down long stretches of roads with not much stopping.
Or, how fast do you usually go?

I found 42x17, 42x16 was decent for most city/MUP riding.

slimvela

Went with the advice, threw the 42x16 combo on (pretty much stop and go 'round here) and took her out for a test ride 'round the block... pretty much sums it up.

As soon as I get some bar tape and the front brake on there, I'll get some pics of the build.

You can peak the frame set-up...HERE

the beef

I used the same wheelset in my single speed conversion (pics in my sig)! Nice!

Do post those pics.

Duke of Kent

I have mine set up with a chain tensioner to use a 53x16, 17, 18, 20 and 22. I use the 16 and 17 for interval days and throw on the 18 and up for recovery rides.

ruppster

I like 46x18, lotsa tooth engagement. Pretty close to 42x16. 46x17 just seems a bit much for long, steep grades.

slimvela

'spare-time-build' almost complete, awaiting new 44t chainring. Pics added to show what your advice led to. Thanks again to those that offered words of advice/encouragement.

Enjoy.