Which wheel size did you enter into computer?
#1
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Which wheel size did you enter into computer?
So I got me a 2nd bike computer, a double-wireless Sigma for speed and cadence. Took it out for the first time this afternoon on the shortest loop I regularly do. Now my older bike computer (it's about 9 years old), Google Map Pedometer and TopoRoute all agree that this loop is about 15.7 miles. My new Sigma displayed 16.5 miles when I got home... *scratches head*
According to Sigma, there's 3 ways to measure wheel size: (1) Use Sigma's given value for my bike's 700cx23 tires, or (2) measure the diameter and multiply by 3.1416, or (3) measure the actual wheel's rollout on the floor. I used method #1 today, but I think I'll use method #3 tomorrow, which may be more accurate. My old computer on my 1st bike is too old, I've forgotten what I used; and it won't tell me what the current value is, I can only reset it to a new value.
Which method did you guys use on your computers? And do you think your getting accurate readings?
According to Sigma, there's 3 ways to measure wheel size: (1) Use Sigma's given value for my bike's 700cx23 tires, or (2) measure the diameter and multiply by 3.1416, or (3) measure the actual wheel's rollout on the floor. I used method #1 today, but I think I'll use method #3 tomorrow, which may be more accurate. My old computer on my 1st bike is too old, I've forgotten what I used; and it won't tell me what the current value is, I can only reset it to a new value.
Which method did you guys use on your computers? And do you think your getting accurate readings?
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i use a cateye astrale 8 and it's accurate with gmaps. I also used the proconfig for 700x23. I would use method 3 as well if i were you, or borrow a garmin and measure it and compare.
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Well keep in mind that gmap and top route are all going to use straight lines, while your bike is not. That could definitely account for the 5% difference.
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https://sheldonbrown.com/cyclecompute...n.html#rollout
i have the same computer as you. Sounds like the Sigma 1606L DTS. I used method #3 and it is almost dead-on with my Garmin GPS (doesn't deviate more than 1/4 mile in 50 or so miles). I also verified it at my school track for 1.0 miles. Pump your front wheel up to the correct pressure. Sit on your bike, roll in a straight line, and measure one full rotation in millimeters and enter it into the computer. you're odo will now be more accurate than a car's. also write the number down in case something happens to your computer.
i have the same computer as you. Sounds like the Sigma 1606L DTS. I used method #3 and it is almost dead-on with my Garmin GPS (doesn't deviate more than 1/4 mile in 50 or so miles). I also verified it at my school track for 1.0 miles. Pump your front wheel up to the correct pressure. Sit on your bike, roll in a straight line, and measure one full rotation in millimeters and enter it into the computer. you're odo will now be more accurate than a car's. also write the number down in case something happens to your computer.
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I did roll out. I was careful to roll straight. I used a seam on the driveway to make sure. I made fine pen marks on my wheel and drew on teh driveway. I wasn't on the bike, which would have made it better. But it agrees with my other computers and GPS.
One BFer had a cool idea. Put toothpaste on the ground, ride over it at speend, carefully going straight. Measure. If you get 3 marls, measue the total and divide by 3.
One BFer had a cool idea. Put toothpaste on the ground, ride over it at speend, carefully going straight. Measure. If you get 3 marls, measue the total and divide by 3.
#8
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Thanks guys. I'll measure rollout tomorrow, and do it while on the bike. The toothpaste idea is pretty good! I can just see my wife roll her eyes...