GuitarWizard

Maybe I need you to build me a set of wheels, because these Niobium 30's that Garcia built up flex more than Arnold in Pumping Iron.....

I really, really, really don't like them.

operator

AL nipples, lawls.

waterrockets 

12mm

front spokes: 273mm (radial)
rear NDS: 277mm (3x)
rear DS: 255mm (1x)

Having done the build I can say that you could round all those down to even mm (272, 276, and 254) to save odd size prices on the CX-Rays. We decided not to for this build because you just don't want to take chances (return shipping would have chewed up any savings).

I love to build wheels, but I'd be more interested in figuring out what went wrong for you. What spokes, counts, and crossings did you use. What hubs?

Maybe they can be retensioned and all will be good.

What do you weigh?

Yeah, I love talking about wheel building in mixed company just so I can say "nipple" a bunch and watch people try to start paying more attention. "Just couldn't twist the nipple any more without hearing this horrible screech."

"Stripped nipple" is always a winnar too.

GuitarWizard

DT Super Comp spokes I believe (triple butted), 20 radially laced front, 24 2x in the rear. My local shop checked 'em out, and said the tension was fine - they're a bit stumped too. I think they're the SpeedCific Serenity hubs that Mike sells.

I seem to range between 140 and 145 pounds....although ideally I'd like to hit slightly less than that this year for the hillier races. I'm fat right now again.....haven't you seen my posts?? LOL

s.peterson

Thanks WR, this will let me order all the parts tomorrow. What is the 12mm dimension for?

waterrockets 

Bummer. Well, we could try to find some better hubs with the same dimensions and rebuild replacing only those parts.

New everything is fine too, but I'm sure the spokes and rims are just fine as they are. Shame to chuck the whole build.

Yeah, it's I remember people giving you crap about your "fat" weight. It's all coming back to me.

12mm is the nipple size (length). Sorry for the confusion, that was your original question, right?

BTW, I chatted briefly with USCSwimming and he has had zero problems with power reading from the asymmetric build (Saris said it's a no-no). Readings are consistent with previous training on the same hub. (this sort of makes me want to rebuild mine... grumble).

curveship

Hey WR -- It's my understanding that PT hubs are supposed to be laced 3x both sides. Let me check the manual ... yeah, page 8, they put it in bold. Problem? -- A

waterrockets 

I talked to them on the phone, and they said 3x or 2x (their pre-builts are 2x). They told me that the hub can "explode" and the power readings will be erratic. So yeah, that stuff would be a problem.

USCSwimming and I knew of a couple examples of radial DS, 3x NDS builds, and he had some recommendations from reputable builders to do so. So, we decided it was probably worth the risk to do a 3x/1x build. It's not like 1x doesn't transfer torque, and the PT delivers torque to the NDS flange before going through the hub shell to the DS flange.

USC puts out a lot of peak wattage, and he's having no problems.

curveship

Cool, thanks. Thinking of a similar build. -- A

USCswimming

WR builds some sick wheels. My rear PT build is 110% perfecto. I mean he nailed that sucker perfectly true and round. The power readings prior to(standard Saris build) and with the new assymetrical build come out identical to my eye. I have done plenty of testing and the numbers come out the same. The build idea came from TW and others who build assymetrical PT wheels. I would not hesitate to lace the wheels this way or to build with these components. These things rock!

Thanks WR!

Ligero

When people ask me what I do I like to tell them I twist oily nipples all day.

I have built every Powertap hub in the last 2 years except one with 1x drive and 2 or 3x non drive lacing. It works very good with the large Powertap flanges. I have not had a single flange break and that includes one hub that I radial laced on the drive side. This lacing will raise the nds tension about 12 to 15% and will also make the wheel laterally stiffer unlike a offset rim which just raises tension about 12% but you loose lateral stiffness from the offset.

You should try using this lacing pattern on 24h rear wheels built with a White Industries H2 hub, it works very good on hub also.

waterrockets 

Cool, thanks for chiming in

steaktaco

Hey WR. I'm building the same rear wheel (XR-300 rim, SL+ hub) but in a 24 spoke version. I'm spec'ing DT Champs (2mm straight) to beef it up a little. Same lacing.

Any wisdom you can share? I'm stuck with the hub but haven't ordered everything else. Thanks.