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My infantile ebay questions for selling bike stuff

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Old 02-11-08, 12:17 PM
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My infantile ebay questions for selling bike stuff

Can you guys give me some pointers on selling stuff on Ebay (no, I've never really done it.)

"Do this not that" type stuff. Expect this to happen. Don't fall for that.
I have some clothes, a stem, and maybe a few other things.


Thank you,
Ebay Seller Virgin
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Old 02-11-08, 12:32 PM
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And add in where to start on printing your own postage labels and how much to charge to ship a frame.
Thanks!
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Old 02-11-08, 12:33 PM
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I believe in: lots of well lighted in focus pictures, a clear accurate honest description, and starting the auction at about 9pm eastern time. Accept Paypal and international bids, and unless what ever you're selling has a truly tiny target audience, start the auction at $0 with no reserve.

If it's bike stuff, you're probably better off waiting until at least mid-March. And unless the bike is very old, very rare and very original, it's worth more as parts.
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Old 02-11-08, 12:35 PM
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Just bike parts is all. A few separate items. Stem, maybe wheels, and other things hither and yon.
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Old 02-11-08, 12:36 PM
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What helps me decide to buy...

1) Good title

2) Complete description, including any flaws.

3) Good pictures.

4) Any available information on size/fitting/compatability

5) Proof read/spell check/have someone else double check

#5 is not as important as the others, but I do feel safer bidding on something being sold by someone who can communicate well, and cares enough to take a few minutes to ensure their posting is accurate and in relatively proper English.

Based on what everyone else selling does, so it must work:

a) EVERYTHING is rare. Must include the word rare in every single listing.

b) Vague terms without any real basis. For example, "really light." Leave it to the buyer's imagination.

c) ALL UPPER CASE. This makes things seem much more important and prestigious.

d) "L@@K" in the title. It is just too cute to bypass.

e) Use totally unrealistic statements about what the item is worth... i.e. "these Crank Brothers Candy C pedals retail for $150"

f) keyword spamming... i.e. include words totally unrelated to your item to pop up in more searches. If you want to be real creative disguise it as real information. For example, when describing Shimano 105 brakes, try something like "Not Campagnolo, Campy, Campag whether Chorus, Record, or Centaur. Also not Dura-Ace," or "Just as good as Campagnolo Record."
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Old 02-11-08, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Little Darwin
What helps me decide to buy...

1) Good title

2) Complete description, including any flaws.

3) Good pictures.

4) Any available information on size/fitting/compatability

5) Proof read/spell check/have someone else double check

#5 is not as important as the others, but I do feel safer bidding on something being sold by someone who can communicate well, and cares enough to take a few minutes to ensure their posting is accurate and in relatively proper English.

Based on what everyone else selling does, so it must work:

a) EVERYTHING is rare. Must include the word rare in every single listing.

b) Vague terms without any real basis. For example, "really light." Leave it to the buyer's imagination.

c) ALL UPPER CASE. This makes things seem much more important and prestigious.

d) "L@@K" in the title. It is just too cute to bypass.

e) Use totally unrealistic statements about what the item is worth... i.e. "these Crank Brothers Candy C pedals retail for $150"

f) keyword spamming... i.e. include words totally unrelated to your item to pop up in more searches. If you want to be real creative disguise it as real information. For example, when describing Shimano 105 brakes, try something like "Not Campagnolo, Campy, Campag whether Chorus, Record, or Centaur. Also not Dura-Ace," or "Just as good as Campagnolo Record."
I really appreciate it.

What about:
"L@@K VERY LIGHT NOT CAMPY OR SHIMANO RARE CARBON STEM SIGNED BY LANCE"
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Old 02-11-08, 01:00 PM
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From my experience,

1. Be very clear on shipping, insurance and tracking.

2. Be very clear on your refund policy.


Good luck
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Old 02-11-08, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by marengo
starting the auction at about 9pm eastern time.
+1 and I generally have it end on a Sunday night.
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Old 02-11-08, 01:14 PM
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Take tons of pictures, then package everything for shipping before the auction.
Label the boxes so you dont mix up anything. Get solid shipping quotes from a
mailbox shop type place. I make my quote based on shipping to zip code 10001
That number is easy to remember, and its expensive to ship there- so you wont
under price your shipping.

Since you are on the east coast, you may want to get a price quote for west coast shipping
just to cover everything. You can always charge less at the end of the auction after
you know exactly where you are shipping to.
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Old 02-11-08, 01:27 PM
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Buy some stuff first to get a sense of how it works. Otherwise, decent pictures, fair descriptions, accept PayPal, and be honest.
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Old 02-11-08, 01:35 PM
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I don't sell on ebay, but I do buy a ton of stuff. Things I look for include a good feedback score, good pictures, and a description that tells you about the item without a bunch of "WOW!!!! BUY THIS!!! SUPER DUPER AWESOME RARE!!!!!!!" salesman hype crap. Honesty is a huge plus and photos that zoom in on a defect with story help me decide that the seller isn't trying to hide something. Good luck!
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Old 02-11-08, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by substructure
I really appreciate it.

What about:
"L@@K VERY LIGHT NOT CAMPY OR SHIMANO RARE CARBON STEM SIGNED BY LANCE"
So you caught my sarcasm on the a-f
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Old 02-11-08, 01:58 PM
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Be real careful about how you price international shipping. I've made the mistake a few times of underpricing it and have paid the price for my mistake.
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Old 02-11-08, 02:04 PM
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I go by these rules:

-List it for a long time, more people will notice and follow it
-Be honest
-Provide stellar photographs. Do you like buying something you can't see? Especially if it's not used? I really think this is the big one too. As a photographer, it's always a joy buying used photography equipment because we know how to take photos. Allow me to demonstrate:

Both of these photos are from the auction. Which would you be more likely to bid on?

This is a crank i have listed on ebay right now


This is someone elses
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Old 02-11-08, 02:08 PM
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Honestly.....I would rather buy from the lower picture. The top pic looks to much like a picture supplied by Shimano. The lower picture....I tend to think the seller actually has the product in hand so I feel it is less likely a possible scam.

Originally Posted by timmyquest

Both of these photos are from the auction. Which would you be more likely to bid on?

This is a crank i have listed on ebay right now


This is someone elses
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Old 02-11-08, 02:19 PM
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My photo is too good?

Classic. Don't worry, there are others with a hand in it, i also tell them they are looking at actual photos I tend to make a profit on the things i sell on ebay (in the event they are being resold).

Sometimes, i even sell things that look like ****, this sold for $60
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Old 02-11-08, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyquest


My photo is too good?

Classic. Don't worry, there are others with a hand in it, i also tell them they are looking at actual photos I tend to make a profit on the things i sell on ebay (in the event they are being resold).
]
Yup, Your photos are too good for Ebay. When I am at a flea market looking for deals I always just walk past the "commercial" stalls. Same thing here and I bet I am not alone in this thinking.
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Old 02-11-08, 02:28 PM
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This picture works for me. Much more than the crank picture.

Originally Posted by timmyquest

Sometimes, i even sell things that look like ****, this sold for $60
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Old 02-11-08, 02:31 PM
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Use the advanced search option and look for completed items similar to yours to get a sense of the market.
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Old 02-11-08, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by garysol1
This picture works for me. Much more than the crank picture.
Don't get me wrong, i know what you're saying, it's just that i don't think that the photo of the crank with the paper creases really looks like an actual marketing photo. The crank is brand new, never installed, i'd like them to believe that and provide photo's to demonstrate it.

When i sell a scratched to **** deraillure but argue that it still works perfectly, providing good photos to show them what i mean tends to make them think i'm not lying. I guess the crank photo is kind of like when i was accused of plagiarism in high school because the writing was "too good". Piss off! but thanks
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Old 02-11-08, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyquest
Don't get me wrong, i know what you're saying, it's just that i don't think that the photo of the crank with the paper creases really looks like an actual marketing photo.
I think the soft lighting is what throws it into the "professional" looking pic for me. Just my opinion. Hey if it works for you don't change a thing.
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Old 02-11-08, 02:49 PM
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Advanced tactics include setting a BIN price $30 more than it's worth to end two hours after a string of no reserve auctions (that still end up netting you a bit south of you wanted), so that your auction is a nice compromise after some forlorn buyers get sniped for the fifth time this week.

Maybe this is just crazy thinking but a short one sentence explanation for why you're selling it tends to alleviate some concern about stolen goods and denied warranty claims.
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Old 02-11-08, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by garysol1
I think the soft lighting is what throws it into the "professional" looking pic for me. Just my opinion. Hey if it works for you don't change a thing.
I've been working on that soft lighting for years!

It's amazing how well your ceiling will work as a soft box.

Originally Posted by euphoria
Maybe this is just crazy thinking but a short one sentence explanation for why you're selling it tends to alleviate some concern about stolen goods and denied warranty claims.
I don't think this is crazy at all. I think it's a very important thing. I know this is true for myself as a buyer anyways. Not even so much because of the suspicion that something is stolen but that it actually still works.
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Old 02-11-08, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by euphoria
Advanced tactics include setting a BIN price $30 more than it's worth to end two hours after a string of no reserve auctions (that still end up netting you a bit south of you wanted), so that your auction is a nice compromise after some forlorn buyers get sniped for the fifth time this week.

Maybe this is just crazy thinking but a short one sentence explanation for why you're selling it tends to alleviate some concern about stolen goods and denied warranty claims
.
What I do, is free shipping with BIN. The BIN price typically has the shipping price figured into it, which isn't to difficult if you can use the USPS flat rate priority boxes.
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Old 02-11-08, 04:09 PM
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It's got to be either Carbon or Vintage. Anything not Carbon is Vintage. Anything Carbon is Carbon. Figure out which of these two very important categories your part falls into, and repeat the category name every 5 words of your listing.
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