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Frame Prep (Facing) + Tool List Question

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Old 02-26-08, 05:23 PM
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Frame Prep (Facing) + Tool List Question

I am trying to figure out whether I will need to have my bottom bracket faced/chased and whether the headset cups need to be faced.
The frame is one of the Le Roi frames, which uses a Hiddenset style headset. On the bottom bracket, I plan to use ISIS and external bearing setups on the bike (to experiment w/various crank arm lengths).
I have searched here and saw threads indicating that no frame prep was needed for the ZX3 frame build, which uses similar parts. Additionally when I called a local LBS they said no facing was needed on the BB for sealed bearing setups, and said the same about sealed bearing headsets as well.

So- do I need to have the BB faced (threads look fine, so no chasing)? What about the cups in the headtube?

Additionally, I have the following list of tools needed to build the bike:
allen head set
ISIS BB tool (+ crank puller)
EXO BB tool
Steerer Tube Cutting Guide
Threaded Nut Setter
Cassette Lock Ring tool
Chain whip
Cable/Housing Cutting/Crimper
3rd Hand tool
torque wrench
misc wrenches
Bike Stand

Is this a complete list? Does anyone make these specialty tools besides Park? (edit, I see Spin Doctor makes tools that look solid and are cheaper than Park - anyone else?)

Thanks,
Ben

Last edited by Bnjmn; 02-26-08 at 05:38 PM. Reason: new info found
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Old 02-26-08, 05:52 PM
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Especially if it's a new frame, I would face at least the BB shell. Those rarely come out perfect. I don't know anything about Hiddensets. I would also stick with Park, I've found that the Spin Doctor stuff isn't made to as good a spec.

The only things I see missing from your list of tools are your greases, lubes, & solvents. Make sure you have an all purpose grease, some good chain lube, and some acetone or mineral spirits around in case you get you drip anything oily on your rims.

edit: also, a good measuring tape and carpenter's level for setting up your saddle.

And don't forget the beers.
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Old 02-26-08, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bnjmn
Is this a complete list? Does anyone make these specialty tools besides Park? (edit, I see Spin Doctor makes tools that look solid and are cheaper than Park - anyone else?)
Since you list a tube cutting guide and a star nut setter I assume you will be cutting a fork with an aluminum steerer. At the risk of stating the obvious, you willl also need a hacksaw and a file to clean up the edge.

While I generally use Park, I bought a Spin Doctor Tube Cutting Guide and have zero complaints - it is not something I use often and it is perfectly functional at a fraction of the price. I don't doubt that there are numerous other satisfactory but cheaper substitutions possible (Pedros, etc..), particularly for tools that will not be used often.

Also, I prefer the Shimano cable cutter to Park's - it is not cheaper, just (IMHO) better.
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Old 02-26-08, 06:53 PM
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Chain tool?
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Old 02-26-08, 08:32 PM
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I am using a fork with a carbon steerer - but from the install guides that I have seen the only difference is that I need to use the cutting guide with a toothless blade and spray the steerer with water to cut down on carbon dust.

Re: the chain tool- I am going to be using an SRAM setup and they state that the PowerLock connection is "tool-less."

Thanks,
Ben
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Old 02-26-08, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Bnjmn
I am using a fork with a carbon steerer - but from the install guides that I have seen the only difference is that I need to use the cutting guide with a toothless blade and spray the steerer with water to cut down on carbon dust.

Re: the chain tool- I am going to be using an SRAM setup and they state that the PowerLock connection is "tool-less."

Thanks,
Ben
Remember NO STARNUT in the carbon steerer (unles it has an Alu insert ala Alpha-Q)

Also, you may still need to remove some links from the chain to get the correct size initially depending on your gearing!
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Old 02-26-08, 08:46 PM
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Nothing is needed for the headset cups. You should tape around the steerer before you cut to avoid the carbon splinter. A 32T hacksaw blade worked well. Cut outside, the carbon dust is not good to take in.

I have the hollowtech II dura ace bb, and I didn't have it faced. But I don't think the crank is spinning as freely as I think it should.
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Old 02-26-08, 08:57 PM
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As mentioned....if you're getting a fork with a carbon steerer tube then you do not need the star net setter. You must use a bung/compression plug.

You need a chain tool. You WILL most likey have to size the chain to your bike. No way around that. Sorry. You should have one anyway. I can't hink of anyone who would have a steerer tube cutting guide, but not a chain tool.

To face or not to face..... You can get away with not facing the BB, but with external cup style BBs I would highly recommend it. 20 years of wrenching and I never ran into a BB with a shell face so far out of whack straight from the facotry to cause binding....until I started running into external BBs.

I have run into the issue with an ISIS sealed cartridge BB as well. When torqued to full spec.

..but basically you can take your chances. You won't hurt anything and the need to face it can be apparant as soon as you assemble and torque the thing down.
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Old 02-26-08, 09:52 PM
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Alright, thanks for the replies, I think I am all set.
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Old 02-26-08, 10:28 PM
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How about hex bit sockets for the torque wrench?
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