Why no TI forks.
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Why no TI forks.
I'm just curious really. I've seen alum, steel, and carbon forks. And I've seen TI used just about everywhere else. But I don't think I have ever seen TI forks. Any reason why?
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Ti forks existed, but like aluminum, they're mostly relegated to the bike shop back-room dustbins of history.
I don't think that anything can compete with carbon's two-fold lightweight and road-dampening properties. It's the reason why even high-end steel bikes come with CF forks now.
I don't think that anything can compete with carbon's two-fold lightweight and road-dampening properties. It's the reason why even high-end steel bikes come with CF forks now.
#7
Aluminium Crusader :-)
alu forks are fine. I have two of these threaded 1" forks (steel steerers) on 2 of my old steel bikes, and they ride very good. If anything, I'd like them to be a bit stiffer. By the way, they're not Columbus.
I'd happily use all-alu, threadless forks if they're were easy to get.
I'd happily use all-alu, threadless forks if they're were easy to get.
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The popular aluminum forks from back in the day, like the SR Prisim and Kinesis, were soft to the point of being noodly. In no way were they harsh in the least. The early Kestral carbon forks were WAY stiffer - thus rode like a truck in comparison. Beastly...NOT.
#9
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Titanium is expensive and hard to work with, that's the bottom line. Carbon can be molded in large quantities, so is cheap to produce by comparison, Ti is very labor intensive and is hard to form into fork shapes. It would make a great fork, it would cost more than the frame to make.
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there are a number of Ti forks still available. One problem is they tend to be flexy. And also as stated above harder to work with.
So it's hard to make a sufficiently stiff, light, competitively priced Ti fork.
So it's hard to make a sufficiently stiff, light, competitively priced Ti fork.
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I did some research on this and found that there were two companies offering titanium forks: Sibex (Russian, offers a CX fork) and a Czech company called Morati who make road forks I believe.
https://www.tufonorthamerica.com/newsletters.php?action=display&id=23
They're incredibly expensive, however, as you might have guessed.
https://www.tufonorthamerica.com/newsletters.php?action=display&id=23
They're incredibly expensive, however, as you might have guessed.
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In other words, even if you had a load of money to spend on a Ti fork, it'd be functionally inferior to a much cheaper carbon fork.
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I did some research on this and found that there were two companies offering titanium forks: Sibex (Russian, offers a CX fork) and a Czech company called Morati who make road forks I believe.
https://www.tufonorthamerica.com/newsletters.php?action=display&id=23
They're incredibly expensive, however, as you might have guessed.
https://www.tufonorthamerica.com/newsletters.php?action=display&id=23
They're incredibly expensive, however, as you might have guessed.
Good luck.
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I noticed Sibex was mentioned above. You'll still see Titanium Forks used a bit on some Ti Cyclo-Cross bikes. Mainly because of their incredible strength, and when extra rigidity is also needed for the conditions. Specifically Sibex. I love their CX frame. Too cool.
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#17
Aluminium Crusader :-)
alu forks are fine. I have two of these threaded 1" forks (steel steerers) on 2 of my old steel bikes, and they ride very good. If anything, I'd like them to be a bit stiffer. By the way, they're not Columbus.
I'd happily use all-alu, threadless forks if they're were easy to get.
I'd happily use all-alu, threadless forks if they're were easy to get.
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Partly cost...but mostly material property driven. Some love their Ti frames but the reality is CF has a better strength to weight to stiffness ratio compared to Ti. Ti is whippy compared to CF at the same weight and strength...reduced modulus of elasticity. That is why you see mostly full CF bikes at the elite racing level.
#20
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How difficult is it to get a Ti steerer cut?
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It cuts, if using a heavy duty pipe cutter. Even a smaller tubing cutter will work, if it will fit. Use it very slowly and gently. Make VERY small turns (~1/8 turn) on the tension after every two rotations. It makes a perfect cut. It takes time, but the results are fantastic.
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