jcbenten

I was looking for more space between the smallest cog and the frame when my LBS notices the extra builtin spacer on the Shimano cassette. We checked a SRAM cassette he had and it was smooth on the inside. When he tried to install it on the hub, the hub splines were (still are) too tall.

All I am saying that there is more incompatibility between SRAM and Shimano besides Brifters/RD. I think the OP needs to give the SRAM a chance. I really like the shifting/operation of the brifter.

BarracksSi

Well, they all work, and if the OP is already using Shimano on everything else, there's no real reason to shove a SRAM bike in there.

I wouldn't mind switching at all because I only have about 500 miles on STI shifters, which means that I have no old habits to break and no other road bikes to match.

I just can't seem to leave well enough alone, I guess. My car has numerous modifications, and I've been thinking of a different wheelset and component group on my first, nearly-new roadie.

go1dens4

could i buy that rear derailleur off you?

RoboCheme

For what it's worth, I asked the wrenches at the LBS "where would a SRAM Rival fall in the Shimano line?" They all said between Ultegra and DA. And they said that it was cheaper than Ultegra. I guess they like it.

non

Sram Rival.

Barrettscv 

Can I use an Ultegra or a 105 Front Derailleur with a Sram Rival OCT Compact Double Road Crankset?

tubescreamerx

Rival is better than Ultegra. I wouldn't bother swapping out components when you already have such a great setup. You'll get used to the SRAM double-tap.

But don't listen to me... I have owned only Shimano equipped bikes in the past, and now I'm loving my 2009 SRAM Rival with Force crankset on my brand new Ridley Excalibur... it took me a total of 3-4 hours to perfect shifting on the new system.

edit: And the groupset is lighter than Dura-Ace. Oh, and much cheaper.

Barrettscv 

I'm putting together a new build. I own Shimano 105 10 speed shifters, but I'm deciding which crankset & derailleur.

I've read that Shimano shifters & Rival derailleurs are not compatible. I Would like to stick with Shimano for the derailleur, but use rival for the crankset. Can it be done?

14max

Yes

Barrettscv 

Thanks!

snotrockets

To avoid the problem of the cassette cutting into aluminum hubs, Shimano changed the spline pattern, making it taller. SRAM still uses the old spline, making it incompatible with 10 speed wheels.

Sheldon's site contains some pretty pictures that will help you understand.

newsun

I can understand wanting all the bikes to be the same...at the same time, I never understood about habits and what not. I have ridden road and mtn bikes and they have often had different shifters from friction to click, thumb only, thumb with trigger, grip, shimano and sram brifters. They are all pretty much the same and easy as long as they are in good condition.

Personally I like the sram stuff right now and is why I went with a rival equipped bike recently. I may go with something campy next as I have never tried that much.

yogi13

I'm pretty sure that was only true for DA cassettes for awhile, and that shimano again has everything on a hub with the same spline pattern. In any case, my SRAM cassette fits on a shimano 10-spd hub, both bought earlier this year.

Duke of Kent

Having used Shimano (Ultegra) for a year and a bit, Campy (Chorus) for a year and a half, and now SRAM (Red shifters, Rivel RD), I have to say that I definitely like SRAM the best.

And as I still have my Campy stuff, and mess around on Shimano bikes all the time, it's pretty easy to swap back and forth. I can hop back and forth between bikes with no issues.

So, really, it's not a problem. I'd advise you to give it a try.

Val23708

Basically SRAM Cassetes wont work on a "Shimano 10-spd only" hub. otherwise they will fit a 10/9 spd hub. the only hubs that shouldn't fit are certain Shimano 2006 & 2007 wheelsets. For 2008 they swiched back to the older splines but made of titanium instead of softer aluminum. The cheaper wheels use steel hubs so they have the shorter splines.

Anyhow, to the OP, you've attracted just about all the SRAM users on the forum. We all want you to try it out and hopefully stick with it because its just that good.

Skewer

What about the OP's concern about having all the bikes the same system? Are there some of you that currently have bikes outfitted by two or three of the component makers, where you can reliably and comfortably race a Sram equipped road bike today and then turn around and race a Shimano equipped road bike tomorrow without missing a beat, or might you tend to get mixed up if you were constantly switching back and forth between bikes with different shifting systems?

Edit: I see Duke of Kent says he can hop back and forth no problem.

ljrichar

I am getting a new Caad 9 that comes with full 105 (sans brakes). I already know that I want to swap out the brifters for Rival (small hands & whatnot) & from reading this post I realize that I will also have to swap out the RD. ?. I can get the whole Rival group for a pretty good deal. Is there any benefit in sticking w/ the 105 crank & FD, or would you swap it all out. Thanks.

botto 

ljrichar

Yeah, but if I would have started a new thread, you would have yelled at me for not searching.

Did I mention that I hate when botto changes his avatar.

snotrockets

Shimano changed the splines for 10-speed, making them taller. They're still the same width, so you can install a 10-speed Shimano cassette on an older hub, but not the other way around.

SRAM didn't follow, and make their 10-speed cassettes with the older splines, so they don't fit 10-speed only hubs.

jonestr

PM sent about a trade

kwrides

The Rival Crank is supposedly MUCH stiffer and lighter than the 105. I have not ridden either, just telling you what the research says. (see post #6)

cblack3

Sram shifters and derailers are set up to a 1-1 cable pull. Shimanos are set up to a 2-1 cable pull. Campys are 1.6-1 none of these shifters and derailers will interchange.

BarracksSi

I've almost ridden both -

My 105 crank shifts very nicely and has withstood my mashing well enough to not start wobbling like the Truvativ cranks I've had. Since the Rival crank appears to have the same Truvativ construction (SRAM owns Truvativ, after all), I'd keep the 105 crank on my bike.

For me, shift quality and durability trump weight, and the Shimano crank-BB is stiff enough.

kwrides

I hear what you're saying, but the scientific data in post #6 disagrees. Not saying you're wrong, just what I read on the interwebs.