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  1. #1
    ..... Jynx's Avatar
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    BicycleWheelWarehouse Wheel build (with pics)

    Just picked up a set of wheels to complete my new bike build. Very happy with the service from BicycleWheelWarehouse. They shipped the wheels out next day and I had them in way under a week. I took off the cheesy reflective Mavic Stickers. Build is like this...

    Rim: Mavic Open Pro 700c. 32 hole black rear, 28 hole black front
    Front Hub: Shimano Ultegra 6500 series, 28 holes, silver with skewer
    Rear Hub: Shimano Ultegra 6600 series, 8/9/10 speed compatible, 32 holes, silver with skewer
    Spokes: DT Swiss double butted Competition, 2.0/1.8/2.0, black
    Lacing: 3 cross rear drive and non drive side. Radial Front.
    Nipples: DT Swiss alloy nipples
    Set = 1795g (I didn't actually weigh them but this is what they claim)

    I put on velox rim tape, and michelin krylion tires. I know the valve stems are long but I had a bunch of tubes with 60mm valve stems so I just used them anyway.

    Here are some pics...

    Front wheel


    Front Hub


    Rear Wheel


    Rear Hub


    Set


    Overall they seem like a great durable wheelset for cheap. I definately recomend them to anyone looking for a good quality wheel. They also offer a bunch of other configurations for what you need.

  2. #2
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    How much more than performance did they set you back?
    Looks good!

  3. #3
    ..... Jynx's Avatar
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    They were $16 CHEAPER then performance for a newer rear hub (6600 as opposed to 6500 from performance), better spokes (DT Swiss instead of wheelsmith), black spokes (instead of silver), 28 radial front (instead of 32 3x front), and alloy nipples (instead of brass nipples). Plus the big differene they are hand built and not machine built.

  4. #4
    lettin' my freak flag fly otismedina's Avatar
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    Puleeze get some tubes with shorter valve stems. Those long ones are driving me nuts.

  5. #5
    Senior Member YATES's Avatar
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    If you don't mind... How much did they charge?
    Hard work creates POWER

  6. #6
    How much does it weigh? prendrefeu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by otismedina View Post
    Puleeze get some tubes with shorter valve stems. Those long ones are driving me nuts.
    I actually like it that way, I say keep 'em. French "style" valves are better looking, though, compared to the threaded ones. Next time.
    Weight weenies keep it light.

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  7. #7
    How much does it weigh? prendrefeu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by YATES View Post
    If you don't mind... How much did they charge?
    (Performance price + shipping + tax) - $16 = (BWW price + shipping + tax)
    Weight weenies keep it light.

    Director of the Midnight Express Ride; Board of Directors, Los Angeles County Bicycle Coalition.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jynx View Post
    Plus the big difference they are hand built and not machine built.
    Quote Originally Posted by BWW
    Each of our wheels are meticulously built using the latest robotic technology and hand inspected for a top quality wheel that will survive through years of use.
    So both wheels are built on machines, and Performance supposedly does the same hand checking. I read on their site that everything is built "in house", but no mention of hand built.

  9. #9
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    my exact planned build!

    with a few differences in the spoke setup but pretty darn similar...

    think i shall go for silver instead of black though, and i also shall too remove the sticker, maybe even some red nipples haha
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  10. #10
    The Improbable Bulk Little Darwin's Avatar
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    Like early Fords, you can get whatever color you want as long as it is black.

    If you look at their site, there is only one road silver wheel set, and no silver for MTB...
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  11. #11
    ..... Jynx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by otismedina View Post
    Puleeze get some tubes with shorter valve stems. Those long ones are driving me nuts.
    Its just what I had laying around. Doesn't really bother me.

    Quote Originally Posted by YATES View Post
    If you don't mind... How much did they charge?
    http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...d&productId=42

    Those are the wheels I bought. You can see they were $209 but they just raised the price slightly. Still a a better deal then performance.

    Quote Originally Posted by christama View Post
    So both wheels are built on machines, and Performance supposedly does the same hand checking. I read on their site that everything is built "in house", but no mention of hand built.
    I didn't see that. Thanks for pointing it out. I also have more faith in their hand checking then performances but either way is still fine for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by tomoscotto View Post
    my exact planned build!
    with a few differences in the spoke setup but pretty darn similar...
    think i shall go for silver instead of black though, and i also shall too remove the sticker, maybe even some red nipples haha
    Look around there site they offer a couple of other configurations and I am pretty sure they can custom make what you want.

  12. #12
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    They look great. Should be good wheels for you.

    Check that the hubs are not over-tightened. All the Shimano hubs I've ever bought new came out of the box too tight. There should be some play when the QR is half tight, and no play when it's completely tight. If there's not play half open, you are drastically shortening the life of your hubs.

    Regarding the machine built wheels, I guess it's not a bad deal because the price is so low. Still, it's unfortunate that the outbound spokes weren't properly bent to adjust the spokeline before being brought up to tension. Keep an eye on how even the tension is, now and over time. If they were mine, I'd detension completely (leave them laced), adjust the spoke lines, and retension...

    I'm not trying to scare you -- these will be great wheels for you. The subtle techniques are what make the difference between a 12,000 mile wheel and a 24,000 mile wheel...

  13. #13
    ..... Jynx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waterrockets View Post
    They look great. Should be good wheels for you.

    Check that the hubs are not over-tightened. All the Shimano hubs I've ever bought new came out of the box too tight. There should be some play when the QR is half tight, and no play when it's completely tight. If there's not play half open, you are drastically shortening the life of your hubs.

    Regarding the machine built wheels, I guess it's not a bad deal because the price is so low. Still, it's unfortunate that the outbound spokes weren't properly bent to adjust the spokeline before being brought up to tension. Keep an eye on how even the tension is, now and over time. If they were mine, I'd detension completely (leave them laced), adjust the spoke lines, and retension...

    I'm not trying to scare you -- these will be great wheels for you. The subtle techniques are what make the difference between a 12,000 mile wheel and a 24,000 mile wheel...
    I really do appreciate the help. I looked at pricing wheels up piece by piece and right now I just cant afford that as the rest of the build sucked up all my money. I couldn't find another set of decent wheels for this price so I just went for it.

  14. #14
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    Yeah, again, not trying to scare you. You got a great deal. Just some points to keep an eye on

  15. #15
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    What do you mean by spoke line? I've never heard of that before and double checking sheldon's page I can't find anything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jynx View Post
    They were $16 CHEAPER then performance for a newer rear hub (6600 as opposed to 6500 from performance), better spokes (DT Swiss instead of wheelsmith), black spokes (instead of silver), 28 radial front (instead of 32 3x front), and alloy nipples (instead of brass nipples). Plus the big differene they are hand built and not machine built.
    I'm not criticizing your wheels, but I'm curious about a couple of things.

    I was of the opinion that brass nipples are more durable than alloy, and that Wheelsmith spokes are superior to DT Swiss because they provide a more snug fit into the spoke holes. Is there any basis to this?

    My Performance Ultegra/Open Pro wheelset, which I purchased in 2005, came with DT Swiss spokes (2.0mm). I'm curious as to why they changed to Wheelsmith.

  17. #17
    Senior Member ravenmore's Avatar
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    hmmm- doesn't radial lacing void the warranty on Shimano hubs? Might be mistaken but I thought that was the case.
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  18. #18
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    I've had the same wheels for a week now, but I sent the front one back to get a 3/cross for a little more strength. I just got the new front one yesterday and checked out spoke tension and true and dish and everything is right on. I'm 210#, maybe I'll lose more weight and try different ones later on.
    George

  19. #19
    Senior Member George's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ravenmore View Post
    hmmm- doesn't radial lacing void the warranty on Shimano hubs? Might be mistaken but I thought that was the case.
    No, the new hubs that Shimano makes, are covered. I checked that out as well, but thinking about that, I decided to go with the 3/C.
    George

  20. #20
    Extra Medium Member redtires's Avatar
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    Yet another site that has nothing Campy compatible....and if it ain't Campy, it ain't jack ravenmore, as for your inquiry regarding warranty, I haven't read a Shimano disclaimer in a looooong time, but it used to be that using their products "in competition" voided the warranty as well.
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  21. #21
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    Shimano fronts are good for radial, and supported by Shimano. Rears are not.

  22. #22
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crydee View Post
    What do you mean by spoke line? I've never heard of that before and double checking sheldon's page I can't find anything.
    When you have the wheel laced, but not tensioned, all the heads-in spokes will be pointing out of the wheel, then bending back in to the rim. It looks almost puffy. When you tension a wheel in this state, you're building in the extra stress from that bend, and that will accelerate fatigue at the j-bends.

    To prevent this, you take your laced, untensioned wheel, and push all the spokes flat as they come out of the hub flange. This adds to the bend coming out of the flange hole and gets the spoke naturally toward the rim hole.

    Heads-out spokes don't usually have a problem with this, but NDS MTB rear hub spokes can sometimes require a bit of bend in the opposite direction (opening the j-bend a bit).

  23. #23
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    An 8 or 9 speed cassette fits on a 6600 hub?

  24. #24
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    yes

  25. #25
    Rice Baker ted ward's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jynx View Post
    They were $16 CHEAPER then performance for a newer rear hub (6600 as opposed to 6500 from performance), better spokes (DT Swiss instead of wheelsmith), black spokes (instead of silver), 28 radial front (instead of 32 3x front), and alloy nipples (instead of brass nipples). Plus the big differene they are hand built and not machine built.
    I just picked up a set yesterday from the local performance shop for $199-10% = $179 and they are actually 6600 front and rear. They weigh in right at 1800 grams with skewers, like yours.

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