Building my own wheels:
#1
Sensible shoes.
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Building my own wheels:
Where to start? What equipment and reference material?
Right now I do pretty much everything on my bikes but this. My wheels works ends with a good truing between the pads. The rest is largely a black art to me, but I'd like to build a few sets of my own (road, CX, MTB) to suit my various tastes and needs.
Right now I do pretty much everything on my bikes but this. My wheels works ends with a good truing between the pads. The rest is largely a black art to me, but I'd like to build a few sets of my own (road, CX, MTB) to suit my various tastes and needs.
#2
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Consult the tomes of Sheldon Brown and all thy questions shall be answered.
Seriously, that is how I learned. He has a really good tutorial going into all the details on his website.
Seriously, that is how I learned. He has a really good tutorial going into all the details on his website.
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Sunrise saturday,
I was biking the backroads,
lost in the moment.
Sunrise saturday,
I was biking the backroads,
lost in the moment.
#3
Making a kilometer blurry
Yeah, Sheldon's page is all you need to read. Jobst's book is awesome, but won't really leave you with any practical knowledge that you can't get on Sheldon's page.
Other than that, all you need is a spoke wrench. You can use the bike as a truing stand and dish tool (remove the chain to work on the rear).
Get your tension to where you think it's close, and bring the wheels and a beer to a shop for a spot-check on tension, and go from there.
If you want to start buying tools to make it easier, a Minoura Workman is a suitable stand (I've been building wheels on mine for 15 years).
I've really enjoyed my Park TM-1 for tension checking. It's about like a power meter... not necessary, but makes things pretty straightforward.
I built my own dish tool from scrap in my wood shop. Let me know if you want a photo, but it's so simple it's silly --- literally took 10 minutes plus glue drying.
Other than that, all you need is a spoke wrench. You can use the bike as a truing stand and dish tool (remove the chain to work on the rear).
Get your tension to where you think it's close, and bring the wheels and a beer to a shop for a spot-check on tension, and go from there.
If you want to start buying tools to make it easier, a Minoura Workman is a suitable stand (I've been building wheels on mine for 15 years).
I've really enjoyed my Park TM-1 for tension checking. It's about like a power meter... not necessary, but makes things pretty straightforward.
I built my own dish tool from scrap in my wood shop. Let me know if you want a photo, but it's so simple it's silly --- literally took 10 minutes plus glue drying.
#4
Sensible shoes.
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Done read it.
Materials acquisition? It seems spokes are sold in lots of 50.
Spoke calculator of choice? I've used the DT, but it has limits on product selection.
Materials acquisition? It seems spokes are sold in lots of 50.
Spoke calculator of choice? I've used the DT, but it has limits on product selection.
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Jobst Brandt's book is one of the better resources out there. I like to use the United Bicycle Institute spoke length calculator. Suggest you find a well stocked local bike shop for spokes. A box of butted spokes containing 72 costs over $50 wholesale, if you can get them. The LBS I frequent has over a hundred different boxes of spokes. You will pay a bit more, but let them do the inventory. I would acquire a truing stand, a dishing tool (or make one yourself) some spoke prep, spoke wrenches, a copy of Brandt's book, and a nice quality tension meter. First time you do it put aside an evening and go slow and methodical as described in the book. Be careful not to overtension. As you get several under your belt you'll find that mechanically it is pretty easy, just takes a little practice and patience. Have fun.
#6
Making a kilometer blurry
I use DT and Spocalc.xls, and cross-reference the results between the two. I don't use the Spocalc database though, I hand-enter the values.
#7
175mm crank of love
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You will need ....
a truing stand..the Park model (bench mount) or one of the folding types with the Park features
a Park spoke wrench
a Park spoke tension gauge (see Lickbike.com)
spokes (see Lickbike.com)
use the DT calculator
Sheldon's "How to Lace a Wheel" article..
beer
worked for me..built 2 sets this past winter
a truing stand..the Park model (bench mount) or one of the folding types with the Park features
a Park spoke wrench
a Park spoke tension gauge (see Lickbike.com)
spokes (see Lickbike.com)
use the DT calculator
Sheldon's "How to Lace a Wheel" article..
beer
worked for me..built 2 sets this past winter
#8
Sensible shoes.
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I've got the beer (Surly, no less) and wrenches. The rest will be slowly acquired 'under the radar' like most other tools in the shop.
#9
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I use Spocalc and two online calculators to cross reference. Throw out the odd number if there is one.
Aside from that, you'll want a truing stand and a spoke wrench.
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Any reason to pick this one:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...ruing%20Stands
Over this one?
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...ruing%20Stands
FTW???
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...slisearch=true
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...ruing%20Stands
Over this one?
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...ruing%20Stands
FTW???
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...slisearch=true
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The Park one is sturdier and more accurate in self centering (although even that is off at times) but any of them will build a good, solid wheel. I only use a Park TS-2 because it was given to me for free. I love it, but probably wouldn't spend $200+ on one.
#12
Sensible shoes.
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I favor the ParkTool job. Then they're local to me (in fact the rep lives a block away). Readily available for ~$160.
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I built mine using Jobst book and wo a stand, just bike upside down and eyeing between the pads. Of course a stand is more accurate but I didn't want to get one for a once-off job.
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My LBS has a machine that cuts and threads spokes to any length. With that thing, you can buy just the number of spokes you need.
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My suggestions are these:
1) Take your time!
2) Make sure the spokes are properly laced!
3) Be sure you turn all the nipples the same amount when installing the spokes. This will start you off with a wheel that has less lateral and vertical movement.
Sidenote: I've found half radial rears provide better tension on the non-driveside.
1) Take your time!
2) Make sure the spokes are properly laced!
3) Be sure you turn all the nipples the same amount when installing the spokes. This will start you off with a wheel that has less lateral and vertical movement.
Sidenote: I've found half radial rears provide better tension on the non-driveside.