Dynamic

When I am biking, I don't cross chain on my small ring on 8 of my cogs.
When I am on my big ring, I can only use about 4 cogs.
Does it have something to do with my FD tuning?

cooker

When you say you "don't cross chain", do you mean the front derailleur doesn't rub? It's still cross-chaining if you go from big to small, or vice versa, even if the FD doesn't protest.

It's possible you could adjust your front derailleur so you could get a couple of more choices out of your big ring, but that would probably reduce what you can get from the small ring, so it would be a tradeoff.

ted ward

set the FD high limit screw to restrict it to just barely clearing on your smallest cog

merlinextraligh

Yes. With a lot of modern equipment, you can crosschain all the way across in all combinations without FD rubbing. Not that I'm reccomending that, but you should certianly be able to use the 8 smalllest cogs.

Also do you know how to trim the FD? There's an intermediate click on most groups, that allows you to move the FD a little, short of shifting to the dmall ring.

Campag4life

How about when you aren't biking?
Since you can get to all cogs in back on your small ring then it isn't your RD.
You need to adjust either the cable and/or limit screws on your front derailleur to allow the chain to move to all cogs.

Szczuldo

The only component group that I have seen which have problems with rubbing is Sora. I haven't tried any low end campy groups yet though so maybe it'll be the same. Sora does not have trimming and really limits your choices in both big chainring and small chainring. Every other group Shimano wise has trimming of the FD and will not get rub in any combination if set up correctly. I would assume the same is true for Campy but I will not know for sure until I buy my Chorus bike sometime probably next year.

maxlstylee

I have sora shifters as well as sora FD. I am able to trim and move the FD out of the way when rubbing can occur.

Steve BT1

You did not mention your chainring set and cassette combo.

In the mostly flat lands of central FL, I went from a 34/50 compact to a 42/50 standard crankset and a 12/27 cassette.

That gives me all the range I need and most often are straignt lining the chain. Also very quick front ring changes if required.

I always thought that you should strive to run combinations of gearing to keep the drive chain somewhat centered. They sure run more quiet that way.

Steve

Dynamic

thanks guys, im going to test intermediate shifting tomorrow
running 50/34 12-25

and maybe check out on some adjustments

derrickhackman

when you are noodling and not applying much pressure to the crank it is 'ok' to keep it crossed... (like a 53/17) or when you are racing a crit and there is a relentless rise every mile ... but the reality is you should want to have your chain line near straight as possible all the time so if you are on a climb that will have you in the saddle go ahead shift into your small ring and get the right gear and chain line.

Terex

If adjustment doesn't resolve, your rear derailer hanger may be bent. Shop can check with a tool.