are new mor expensive tires worth it
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are new mor expensive tires worth it
i have cheap maxi tires that came with the bike what would be some noticeable advantages of the more expensive ones
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Eh, yeah I guess. But to tell you the truth, sometimes I'd prefer a cheaper, more durable tire. My damn pro race 2 pissed out after less than 1000 miles. The damn thing was a flat machine. I hope the PR3 which replaced it fairs better.
But I suppose the rolling resistance is better.
But I suppose the rolling resistance is better.
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It depends on the benefits you are lookiing for. Are you racing? Do you want a decrease in weight? Rolling resistance? Better grip in the corners? Or a longer lasting tire?
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I went from Michelin Krylion Carbons which are high end tires in their own right to Michelin Pro Race 2's and i have to say i can notice a slight inprovement in cornering and rolling with them. I'm talking a really small difference but the difference from crap tires to good Michelins or Contis etc are going to be big, esp in the durability and lack of flats.
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high end tires are well worth it, but they don't have to be expensive. these are easily as good as any clincher out there:
https://www.glorycycles.com/totoclti.html
https://www.glorycycles.com/totoclti.html
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IMO, as with cars, the tires are the most important component of the vehicle. It is the only thing that comes in contact with the ground. I will pick a tire purely on the performance characteristics I want, then I will try to get a good deal. Definately not the other way around.
Is expensive better? As others wrote, it depends on what you want. Increased cost can mean better performance in terms of grip, rolling resistance, weight and puncture resistance. You can't have them all, only you can choose what is important to you and to want degree you feel is necessary. For me, grip is most important with puncture resistance being not important at all.
Is expensive better? As others wrote, it depends on what you want. Increased cost can mean better performance in terms of grip, rolling resistance, weight and puncture resistance. You can't have them all, only you can choose what is important to you and to want degree you feel is necessary. For me, grip is most important with puncture resistance being not important at all.
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when i was 17 my dad let me drive his 77' Porsche 911S for the year, but he took me to a driving coach who asked me the question "what stops the car?"
of course i said "the brakes".
wrong she told me- "the tires. they stop the car."
one of the best lessons on anything i've ever had.
of course i said "the brakes".
wrong she told me- "the tires. they stop the car."
one of the best lessons on anything i've ever had.
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I had a flat so I replaced the stock tires on my Madone 6.5 with Vittoria Open Corsa EVO CX Tires and tubes. The bike ran noticeably smoother. It felt like the bike was just fully lubricated. Those tires are unbelievable. So in answer to your question, quality tires make a noticeable difference.
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when i was 17 my dad let me drive his 77' Porsche 911S for the year, but he took me to a driving coach who asked me the question "what stops the car?"
of course i said "the brakes".
wrong she told me- "the tires. they stop the car."
one of the best lessons on anything i've ever had.
of course i said "the brakes".
wrong she told me- "the tires. they stop the car."
one of the best lessons on anything i've ever had.
#13
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Nice ones would be Rubino Pros or Lithions... not terribly expensive, but still good enough performance and slightly flat resistant.
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My P3Rs were the best upgrade I got for my bike.
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No I can't tell the difference between Nashbar Prima's [Cheng Shin], IRC Redstorm, Michelin, or Panaracers. I see no difference in speed and the ride has more to do with tire width and road conditions.
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The tires are the only part that [should] touch the ground, so it really makes no sense not to have the best ones possible, since every part of the bike is ultimately going through that little contact patch to the road.
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I use Gatorskins.
All the reduced rolling resistance in the world means jack when I'm sitting at the edge of the road fixing a flat.
All the reduced rolling resistance in the world means jack when I'm sitting at the edge of the road fixing a flat.
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You'll note that the the TPI increases as you go up in price (usually).
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I buy Conti GP 4000S off E Bay. Not cheap but not very expensive either (in relative terms). I have found this tire to be very reliable (very few flats) and replace once a year. Probably could get more miles out of a set but the annual cost seems like a good investment given the trouble free attribute.
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I buy Conti GP 4000S off E Bay. Not cheap but not very expensive either (in relative terms). I have found this tire to be very reliable (very few flats) and replace once a year. Probably could get more miles out of a set but the annual cost seems like a good investment given the trouble free attribute.
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I had a flat so I replaced the stock tires on my Madone 6.5 with Vittoria Open Corsa EVO CX Tires and tubes. The bike ran noticeably smoother. It felt like the bike was just fully lubricated. Those tires are unbelievable. So in answer to your question, quality tires make a noticeable difference.
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