"I dunno, I just swap out my whole drive train a couple times a season"
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"I dunno, I just swap out my whole drive train a couple times a season"
So my new co-worker put me to shame...turns out he rides and worked at bike shop so we get to talking. I ask proudly "I'm thinking it's time for a new chain since its been about 1500 miles, what do you think?"
His response blew me away (in subject)...he rides like 10-20k miles a season. He just wears out the drive train, swaps it all out at once.
...I'm just a hobbyist at best
His response blew me away (in subject)...he rides like 10-20k miles a season. He just wears out the drive train, swaps it all out at once.
...I'm just a hobbyist at best
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Check the chain....
My wife just got 6000km from an Ultegra chain and she could have gotten a bit more (I measured), but what's the point....I had a chain already...
Don't just switch based on mileage, measure it...
My wife just got 6000km from an Ultegra chain and she could have gotten a bit more (I measured), but what's the point....I had a chain already...
Don't just switch based on mileage, measure it...
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Thats stupid. There's no need to replace the whole drivetrain after 15-20k miles.
Unless he means cassette, chain, and maybe chainrings. That would make sense.
Unless he means cassette, chain, and maybe chainrings. That would make sense.
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My chain stretches out after a couple of thousand miles, and my cassette also gets alittle worn. the chain ring about double that for the most used ring. I notice a big difference in shifting...seems worth the expense to me.
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I thought the drive train consisted of the chain, cassette, and the chain rings...anyways, that all he changes.
#7
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1-skimp on the chain, break the chain, break your collar bone
2-skimp on the chain, wear out my expensive Campy drive train, forced to upgrade to 11-speed
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So my new co-worker put me to shame...turns out he rides and worked at bike shop so we get to talking. I ask proudly "I'm thinking it's time for a new chain since its been about 1500 miles, what do you think?"
His response blew me away (in subject)...he rides like 10-20k miles a season. He just wears out the drive train, swaps it all out at once.
...I'm just a hobbyist at best
His response blew me away (in subject)...he rides like 10-20k miles a season. He just wears out the drive train, swaps it all out at once.
...I'm just a hobbyist at best
#11
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OK...I suppose it's possible but don't think so.
Before he came to work for us he was a reseacher at a University. (i.e. work any time you want, ride all day if you want) I think he's the real deal. He's competing in some crazy 24 hour endurance race this month.
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Pulling my chain!
OK...I suppose it's possible but don't think so.
Before he came to work for us he was a reseacher at a University. (i.e. work any time you want, ride all day if you want) I think he's the real deal. He's competing in some crazy 24 hour endurance race this month.
OK...I suppose it's possible but don't think so.
Before he came to work for us he was a reseacher at a University. (i.e. work any time you want, ride all day if you want) I think he's the real deal. He's competing in some crazy 24 hour endurance race this month.
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The problem with riding a stretched (worn) chain is not so much that the chain's going to fail; it's that it wears the cassette, and causes the cassette to skip with the new chain.
So you have two options: 1) replace the chain when it's stretched 1/16th" in 12 links. This method should allow you to go through 3-4 chains before replacing your cassette.
2) wait until the chain is truly shot, and then replace it and the cassette at the same time. There's really not much wrong with this approach.
If you're running expensive cassettes, it argues for approach number 1, if you use a cheaper cassette, with how much chains cost these days, the run them both into the ground approach may not be any more expensive, and is less total hassle.
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The problem with riding a stretched (worn) chain is not so much that the chain's going to fail; it's that it wears the cassette, and causes the cassette to skip with the new chain.
So you have two options: 1) replace the chain when it's stretched 1/16th" in 12 links. This method should allow you to go through 3-4 chains before replacing your cassette.
2) wait until the chain is truly shot, and then replace it and the cassette at the same time. There's really not much wrong with this approach.
If you're running expensive cassettes, it argues for approach number 1, if you use a cheaper cassette, with how much chains cost these days, the run them both into the ground approach may not be any more expensive, and is less total hassle.
So you have two options: 1) replace the chain when it's stretched 1/16th" in 12 links. This method should allow you to go through 3-4 chains before replacing your cassette.
2) wait until the chain is truly shot, and then replace it and the cassette at the same time. There's really not much wrong with this approach.
If you're running expensive cassettes, it argues for approach number 1, if you use a cheaper cassette, with how much chains cost these days, the run them both into the ground approach may not be any more expensive, and is less total hassle.
For the kind of mileage I put on (under 2k a year) and the price paid for the Cassette, I'm option 1.
For the kind of mileage HE puts on, option 2 makes more sense (and don't forget the caveat that he worked at bike shop...ie great deals!)
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The problem with riding a stretched (worn) chain is not so much that the chain's going to fail; it's that it wears the cassette, and causes the cassette to skip with the new chain.
So you have two options: 1) replace the chain when it's stretched 1/16th" in 12 links. This method should allow you to go through 3-4 chains before replacing your cassette.
2) wait until the chain is truly shot, and then replace it and the cassette at the same time. There's really not much wrong with this approach.
If you're running expensive cassettes, it argues for approach number 1, if you use a cheaper cassette, with how much chains cost these days, the run them both into the ground approach may not be any more expensive, and is less total hassle.
So you have two options: 1) replace the chain when it's stretched 1/16th" in 12 links. This method should allow you to go through 3-4 chains before replacing your cassette.
2) wait until the chain is truly shot, and then replace it and the cassette at the same time. There's really not much wrong with this approach.
If you're running expensive cassettes, it argues for approach number 1, if you use a cheaper cassette, with how much chains cost these days, the run them both into the ground approach may not be any more expensive, and is less total hassle.
#18
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Replace chainrings when the cupped teeth start causing chain suck.
I've had to replace inner rings on MTB's ridden in a lot of grime, and one inner ring on a years old tandem.
I've never replaced a chainring on a road triple. Chainrings just don't wear out as fast as cassettes.
I've had to replace inner rings on MTB's ridden in a lot of grime, and one inner ring on a years old tandem.
I've never replaced a chainring on a road triple. Chainrings just don't wear out as fast as cassettes.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
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I ended up swapping out my whole drive train (except derailleurs) when I reached about 30,000 kms. I couldn't hold my shifts, the chain kept slipping, so I knew it was time to change it ... and I wanted different chainrings anyway .....
I've done another 15-20,000 kms or so on my current drivetrain, and I'm thinking I might change it before next season.
I've done another 15-20,000 kms or so on my current drivetrain, and I'm thinking I might change it before next season.
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Pulling my chain!
OK...I suppose it's possible but don't think so.
Before he came to work for us he was a reseacher at a University. (i.e. work any time you want, ride all day if you want) I think he's the real deal. He's competing in some crazy 24 hour endurance race this month.
OK...I suppose it's possible but don't think so.
Before he came to work for us he was a reseacher at a University. (i.e. work any time you want, ride all day if you want) I think he's the real deal. He's competing in some crazy 24 hour endurance race this month.
https://www.raceacrossoregon.com/roftt
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When the teeth go all pointy.
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Replace chainrings when the cupped teeth start causing chain suck.
I've had to replace inner rings on MTB's ridden in a lot of grime, and one inner ring on a years old tandem.
I've never replaced a chainring on a road triple. Chainrings just don't wear out as fast as cassettes.
I've had to replace inner rings on MTB's ridden in a lot of grime, and one inner ring on a years old tandem.
I've never replaced a chainring on a road triple. Chainrings just don't wear out as fast as cassettes.
I seem to remember Sheldon or someone said something about if you put a new chain on worn rings that you'll 'stretch' the chain faster. Maybe it was a worn cassette -- too lazy to dig it up now. It's just that I have this exact situation: I neglected my beater bike, and now that I put a new chain on, it skips like a 7-year-old in a candy shop. So I'm trying to decide, do I go back to the old chain until it's completely useless, or get a new cassette to match the new chain? The rings are fairly new, switched in with the last chain (a few thousand km's -- a little early for the chain to be so far gone, but like I said, it gets neglected).
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