I'm fairly new to cycling (bought a hybrid at the beginning of the year and have ~600miles on it) and wondered if this bike would be a good introduction to cycling?
Mekk 3G Potenza SL4.0 Sora Red Black And Bronze 2013
I'm new to road cycling and I'm having some troubles with a couple different things. I bought a cheap entry level road bike ($250 Vilano Tuono 21 speed) with intentions of riding the bike path near my house for exercise. The path runs N/S and the winds generally travel N/S so for half of the trip I'm either going with or against the wind depending on which direction I start.
The main issue is I feel super slow (Avg of 11mph on a 2 hour ride the other day) going either way and I'm constantly getting passed up by people on MTB, hybrids, single speeds and of course road cyclists. I seem to get tired super fast and I get a burning sensation on the lower front of my thighs just after a few minutes of riding. I'm just now learning about cadence and I think this has been a big issue for me when I rode my first couple of rides because I was definitely not doing 80-90rpms. I'll be honest I've only been riding in a T shirt and some basketball shorts, no fancy suits or clipless pedals or anything like that but I'm sure it's 99% me (the engine) doing something wrong.
I also feel like I don't know when to shift properly, especially for areas on the path where it goes under highways/main streets where the path slopes down then back up again. I feel like I want to die going uphill and I lose tons of speed. I'm not sure if you're supposed to upshift to get the most out of the small downhill slope, or downshift to get ready for the climb right after the drop.
I've typically been riding in the middle ring on the front and gears 3-6 on the rear cassette (21 speed). If I've got strong winds guiding me I'll go into the big ring on the front and the 4th gear on the rear. Any higher and I don't feel like I can keep a high cadence. I'm also working on getting a better fit for my bike because my current fit is pretty inadequate in it's current state (stem too long, feeling outstretched on hoods)
I know this isn't really a one answer question, but maybe you have some tips for me? I'm also relatively new to this forum, maybe I might have missed a "FAQ" or "New to Road Cycling tips" thread or sometbing like that? If so could u point me in the right direction?
11 mph isn't bad if you are new and getting into shape. I just resumed riding last year after about 33 years off and used to get passed all the time. Now some people pass me and I pass some others.
Yes cadence is important, you need to find what's best for you, 90 is a reasonable starting point. Is your seat high enough? Sitting on the seat with your heel on the pedal at its lowest point, your leg should be completely straight - this is a starting point, adjust from there. Where do you place your feet on the pedals when riding? Ball of foot should be over the center of the pedal. Are your tires fully inflated? How much do you weigh? if you are near 200# or more run the rear tire at maximum pressure per the tire sidewall- front can be 10 less, try it there and adjust to your own preference. Is your bike well adjusted? Brakes not dragging? Shifts well? Wheels run true?
Shifting - shift so that you can comfortably maintain your cadence, especially don't overstress your knees by pushing too hard. You'll run a higher gear riding downwind than you will upwind. When I'm riding trails that pass under roads, if the trail is otherwise level I'll often not shift at all, or just up or down one gear, just depends how I feel, how fast I'm going, how crowded the trail is, etc. But when I was starting out I'd shift down to my front granny gear coming up the other side.
I also started doing some stretches and exercises for hamstrings, IT band, leg muscles, core and back. Don't expect overnight results but you should see steady progress. I went from gasping after 5 miles in September to riding a metric century in March and feeling tired, but good when I was done. It is a lot of things all cumulative. Again seat height is crucial.
As for shifting, I took your advice and didn't worry too much about major shifting for small dips and uphills. I did shift accordingly to keep my cadence high going uphill and it helped tremendously.
For the first time today I actually felt like I made a tremendous improvement and I feel that if i keep at it I can only get better. Thanks a lot.
I am in my 2nd month of riding and am pretty obsessed. I purchased a lower end used bike on craigslist and am wondering if upgrading it is worth the money and effort. I purchased an '09 Jamis Ventura Sport, it has an 8 speed Sora group with an FSA Tempo crankset and an all aluminum frame. So far I have purchased the following accessories/upgrades, Seat bag, Protege 8.0 cyclometer, PD-A530 pedals, shoes for said pedals, a tire gauge and a CO2 pump.
The new 105 5800 groupo was announced recently and I am pretty excited about upgrading my rear drive train components. Can I upgrade an 8spd to 11spd and keep my FD and crankset? If not how high up can I go and is it worth it to get a 6700 10spd over 5700?
ANY ADVICE WELCOMED.......THANK YOU IN ADVANCE :thumb:
I have a Giant Escape 3 (2013) Size Small Escape 3 (2013) | Giant Bicycles | United States (Link to bike)
This is my first road bike. I absolutely love it. I'm changing the stock flat handlebars to drop handlebars and also installing a pair of clip-on aero bars. The drop bars are Ergonova 3T and the aero bars are VisionTech trimax carbon. I'm learning the hard way that when switching from flat bars to drop bars that I have to change a lot of other parts as well. I know from experience that the switch is worth the money, the time, and work. When I was in my teens I had a vintage 10 speed with drop bars and loved them. I bought a pair of Shimano Tourney A073 3 x 7-Speed STI Lever Set Road Bike Triples Shifters. They come with the derailleur, cables and housing but no brake cables or brakes. My bike came with V brakes which work excellent with my flat bar brake levers, but from what I have been reading on forums those brakes are the worst for drop bar levers. What would be a good type of brake for the levers I have?
Posted below are the Specs for the brake/shifter levers.
Color Black Cassette Spacing Shimano/SRAM 7 FD/Shifter Compatibility Shimano Road Triple Shifter/Derailleur Compatibility Shimano Brake Lever Actuation Short Pull Super SLR Brake Lever Use Left Brake Lever Use Right Cable Road End Type Shimano/Sram
I would appreciate any advice from anyone on the correct brakes to buy. Also if you can predict any other parts or problems I might run into during this switch please tell me. Thank you to anyone who took the time to read this have a good day.
Hello! I am new (obviously) and am hoping to get some advice on what bike to buy for both myself and my husband.
Right now we are looking at getting used bikes on kijiji, so our options are fairly limited.
For myself, there is a 2010 giant avail 1 and a 2012 trek 1.1. The giant is 650, and the trek is asking 500. Are these fair prices, and which would be a better choice?
Next, my husband has the choice of a trek 1500 (2008 i believe and $600), a trek 1.5 (2012 and $850) and a massi triathlon bike (about a 2010 and asking $500). He will be riding to and from work, which is about 20k a day. We will also be taking weekend rides. Would a triathlon bike be a bad choice? Are these fair prices? Which would be the best choice?
Finally, is there any way for me to be sure that they haven't switched out the groupsets on the bikes? For the avail, I am not overly convinced that it's actually the model she is telling me it is. She says its the giant avail 1, which would have the shamano 105 shifters, but I don't think she knows what she is talking about as she was very reluctant to tell me the model number and her ad is very vague. Any suggestions?
Thanks so much,
theres a sticky stating not to post spoilers. can someone explain what that means please?