roadiejorge 

Sometimes I wonder how much of that is the "know your place" mentality but more often than not it's just that people often exceed the speed limit anyway so I don't take it personally unless someone has something unpleasant to say.

AtlBiker32

I am looking at upgrading road wheels on my 2005 Giant TCR C3. I am still running the stock Xero Lite XSR-3 wheels. I am 6'3", 200lbs and haven't had any problems with the wheels - just itching for a new set. Here are my choices, let me know your opinions:

Mavik Cosmic Elite - $225
2009 Mavik Aksium Race (includes Dura Ace cassette) - $200
Easton Circuit wheels (like new) - $175

Also, what do you think is a good asking price should I sell the Xero wheelset?

Thanks in advance!

MrMorrill

Finally purchasing a road bike! I figure there is no need for another "Which road bike" thread but I am able to pick up one of two bikes for quite cheap. I have tested both a few weeks back and are both equally comfortable. I know they are not the biggest name brands but the prices seem pretty good, I searched but there really wasn't much on each bike so i figure id make a quick post.

First: 09 GT series three
Carbon forks
Tiagra shifters, rear derailleur, and crank set
Alex D22 rims on Formula sealed 32h hubs
9 speed.
Price:560

Second: 09 Schwinn Fastback Comp
Carbon forks
Tiagra rear derailleur
Sora front derailleur, shifters
San Marco Ponza seat
Formula Xero Shawla 220 Wheel set
9speed
Price:495

Big Jam

I've never really used a road bike as of yet but I have always wanted to because all of my other bikes i.e mountain,hybrid( I think) and such have gotten me places but not necesarily at the speed I wanted to get there because of chain problems with the speed at which I pedal which is a separate problem which I want to fix as well.

But besides that I've wanted to go on farther treks and a few friends who regularly go on half to full centennials said road bikes are the way to go but I've never ridden theirs on account of my body mass 6'2" and 215 lbs. and the possibility of screwing them up is just to much of a worry for me.

So I have used one of the body fit calculators provided by the site and I used the french fit it gave me for comfort since I'm not going to be too competitive and got:

Seat tube range of 57 cm C-C/ 58cm C-T

Top Tube Length 59-60
Stem Length 11.6
BB Saddle position of 69
Saddle-Handle bar of 61-62
Saddle Setback of 7.2

and I was wondering if the weight was taken into account though it did not ask for it.
I've looked on bikesdirect.com and found a 2010 Motobecane Fantom CX for about $560 and it has my size but I was wondering if there were and special precautions necessary since I'm a heavier guy.

Brandon1

Alright guys, new guy here. I am looking to get a road bike to ride for exercise locally. I wont be riding 50miles per day, or *needing* a $1000 bike. I am looking for sub $200 bikes on craigslist. I know enough to stay away from Walmart, so I am looking used. So many other hobbies I have are a "well spend a bit more and get more", and yes I know I should double my budget to get more right now, but I simply cant at this point in time, $200 is about it. I have found several bikes on craiglist (Raleigh, GMC, Moto, peugot, trek) that fit my 6'1" frame (which is apparetly a 57-58cm bike?), but I dont know enough about the bikes to know what is cheap junk, or what is decent cheap junk. Anything to look out for? Any brands to stay away from?

Thanks to all who can provide help.

just Johnna

Hi, excited to be here on the forum. I'm totally new to road biking--other than buying a skinny-tire bike I'm not really one. Frex, My newbie level is doing about 40 miles a week now, I'm averaging 10 mph, and I'm basically delighted and having a good time. I'm not at the level mostly discussed here. My bike is a Giant Dash and for me it is light and smooth and fun. I'm a 40-something Mom with lots of kids. Probably one thing I love about biking is that I'm alone and no one is talking to me. I have to really plot to steal that time for myself.

I'm looking for pointers, I'm noticing things are coming up at around 20 miles. I've seen the 1,000 mile base mentioned (I'm probably just over 200; I'd like to get in more 10-20 mile rides and figure out how to equip for 25 or 30.

Specifically:

I notice after 10 miles jeans start to be annoying, they start sticking to my knee and resisting the motion. A friend suggested long baggy shorts, said those can be had with real bike shorts inside? Wearing lycra or a bike jersey set seems presumptuous and ridiculous at this point. I've never had bike shorts.

I bought gloves (my hands were getting cold, but the cushioning is nice too) and a very yellow cycling windbreaker with zip-off sleeves. I had a helmet already of course.

My socks start to bug me after 20 miles! I can feel the weave on my soles like it was knit jute! What the heck sort of socks am I supposed to get instead? For shoes I'm wearing knock-off Keds, because they fit easily into the bike clips the way running shoes do not.

I'm not carrying a tire pump, patch kit, anything. Just a water bottle, and a lock, and a cell phone. I don't know how to use any of that repair stuff either. How bad is that?

Should I care that I'm slow? Don't get me wrong; I like going fast. I think the fact the road bike rides so much faster than the mountain bike was huge why I liked it so much more. And I like getting out further, seeing more on limited time. However, on the downhills or with wind at my back I sometimes brake because it can be a little fast for my sense of control, especially as it's wet or lightly raining while I'm out.

I'm reading that being savvy with cadence is key to building speed. If cadence is counting rpms of pedaling, are you putting some kind of calculator on your bike to get a sense of that? Or are there other tricks? The goal is 90 rpm?

When I follow other bicyclists in town to copy their pedaling rhythm, is that stalker behavior?

I go out in the rain because I want to go out. How much are my brakes really compromised by being wet?

I'm afraid I'm going to get bored of riding the same places, since I'm heading out without useful destination, unlike commuters. Which is also why I want to get faster/further out. I'm asking for a trailer hitch for Mother's Day, since my van won't take a bike rack on the door. Is location fatigue not really an issue?

helmut

Johnna, you have a lot of good questions.

Some people can wear jeans on a bike, but most people find them dreadfully uncomfortable, even for 10-20 mile rides. Bike shorts cost from around $40 in store (cheaper if you purchase them online like from nashbar.com or performancebike.com). They usually include a pad in the crotch called a "chamois" the offers a little padding, but is mostly there to prevent chafing and absorb moisture. Cyclists wear them not to look like a cyclist, but because they are comfortable. If you really want to, buy the shorts and throw on some thin exercise shorts over the top.

The cotton socks tend to chafe when they get full of sweat. A bike store will have synthetic socks that wick sweat away from your feet and will feel smoother when damp. You can probably buy the same kind of socks from an athletic store or even Walmart or Target.

Check out the Park Tools website for great tutorials on fixing anything on your bike. Alternatively, ask at your local bike store (LBS) if they know of any classes or quick clinics for basic maintenance. I bet in CA there's a fair bit of that.

Don't worry about being "slow". I would just increase the amount of time you ride, and not worry about the speed. The speed will come with more saddle time.

Your brakes will be compromised in the wet, but if they're adjusted correctly, you just need to allow a little more time for braking distance when your wheels are wet or it's raining.

Cadence can be tracked with a sensor connected to your crank arm (the arm connected to your pedal). Many speedometers have a cadence option. I use the Cateye Strada Cadence. About $50 from your LBS.

I don't know what location fatigue is.

10 Wheels

To OP:
Bike clothes are for comfort.
Took me 500 miles for my legs to get strong.
Shoes with a firm soles are best.
I went with nylon socks for comfort.

Get a floor pump for home, and a mini pump for the bike..
Practice changing a tires at home.

passista

Hi all

I'm new to bikeforums and look forum to chat and discuss with you.
I'm an ex-elite roadie from Europe now living in the US. Gran Fondo have always been my passion. A few years ago, I had the chance to ride for an Italian GF team. With the spread of Gran Fondo in the US, I recently started Passista (www.passista.it). It's a website about all things cycling in general and Gran Fondo in particular. Stop by if you have the chance and join me on facebook.
If you have any question on Italian Gran Fondo or French cyclosportives, just let me know via PM or ilpassista@gmail.com. I look forward to help you.

Thanks everyone and cheers

Uli

Strangebrew

My beloved centurion road bike got stolen the other day and need some recommendations on new road bike. I want to spend a bit more this time but try and keep it under ~$900. Just not sure if I want to get another steel framed bike or to go with aluminum but I know I really liked the ride my Centurion gave me. I hear the CAAD5 9 is a good starter road bike but I would have to save for awhile, or find a used one.

Any help would be appreciated

FlatSix911

Sorry to hear about your bike theft

Take a look on line for some good values ... no tax and free shipping

Shimano 105, 30 Speed Road Bike 2010 Windsor Fens $699.
Carbon Fork, Advanced Engineered Aluminum frame, Ritchey Stem, Michelin Tires

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/fens_IX.htm

Strangebrew

Wow really like the looks of the Mercier Serpens

https://bikesdirect.com/products/merc..._serpensIX.htm


Better start saving! Thanks for the link

FlatSix911

Very nice ... I really like the full Ultegra 6600 group, but would prefer a Al or Carbon frame

steamwhipper

I found this bike at the thrift store today. Looks like it needs a new chain and maybe a new brake caliper, but it was priced at $40 and it looked fine aside from that. Can anyone tell me what model it is and if it's a good price? It looks like the PA10E, but I'm not sure.

CB88

Hey all,
Just got my first road bike a week ago, haven't ridden since I was a 'kid' (okay, I'm only 21, so I'm still sort of a kid). Anyway, while I've always ridden bike shop bikes, no wal mart crap, I've never done anything to maintain them; I've never put any miles on them so it hasn't seemed necessary. However, now that my bike is among my most expensive possessions, I find myself wanting to know more about how to maintain it (read: how to clean it so parts don't begin to rust and fall off). I essentially need to know how to do a cursory cleaning of the bike (what is important, how many miles, what products are necessary etc.). Many websites seem to advocate that it is important to remove your front and rear wheels and various other parts of your bike, just to do a weekly cleaning. This seems excessive. I was of the opinion that wiping off visible dirt and buying some lube for the chain would be all that was necessary, but let me know if I'm wrong.

Additionally, I know it seems stupid, and I'm sure I could figure it out quickly, but I don't know how to remove a rear wheel or even remove a chain from the bike, so I'm hoping that these are not necessary steps. Anyway, any guidance would be appreciated, thanks

sa7nt

Here's how to remove the rear wheel. Other maintenance videos can be found at their site as well.
https://www.livestrong.com/video/3816-remove-back-wheel-road-bike/

sanchezdds

Hey guys! This is my first post and wanted to ask a few questions. I am new to this sport and purchased a 2011 Specialized Roubaix, and so far love the bike. I purchased a zero pedals and they have been so hard to get accustomed to using them. I fell off the bike twice trying to get off the bike, but my feet just got stuck on the pedals. What do you guys think of these type of pedals? Did I make the wrong choice? My LBS was swearing by them...

Velo Gator

can you practice getting in and out on a trainer?

littlebeetle

I saw some articles stating narrow saddle with long nose design could lead to impotence especially on guy. Is this true?
There are tonnes of cyclist around the world....Is there any tips / advice ?

derek.fulmer

Hi all,

Still a newbie around here but have made a few posts. I have a 2011 Trek 2.1 on order at my LBS in a 60 cm frame. Like most of my purchases I'm second guessing it, the frame size in particular. I got on a Cannondale and the Rep who I spoke with at this particular shop (not my LBS) told me I was the right size for a 58...in Cannondale. Called up MY LBS and had a quick chat about frame size differences and she said that Trek measure their frames differently (as different clothing companies measure fabrics differently) and that the 60 cm on a Trek would be comparable to a 58 on a Cannondale. Can anyone else attest to this? I guess I'm looking for reinforcement on my frame size with my purchase.

I'm 6'3" if that helps at all. Also did the fit calculator at competitive cyclist dot com and tried to compare those measurements to the geometry that Trek lists on their bike, but that was somewhat overwhelming.

To note: My LBS originally ordered me a 2011 1.5 in 60 cm, got on it, rode it around the shop and around the near by mall and it felt great. Granted, it was still a "honeymoon" period, but still felt great. So, with that in mind, it felt good, was comfortable, so I shouldn't worry about it, right? Haha.

sa7nt

Different manufacturers do indeed measure differently. You can't just go by the TT measurement from manufacturer to manufacturer. I have bikes from three different brands and two of them measure closely while I am a different size in the other. Your best bet is to invest in a professional fit and to compare different size frames from the same make/model if available.

sa7nt

This has been debated extensively and never proven. The theory is that some saddles can put pressure on the perineum and restrict blood flow (true) and eventually lead to damage (unproven). This is prevented by finding a saddle that fits you comfortably and is ideally flat, avoiding pressure on the perineum.

littlebeetle

Thanks for the info..
BTW, this is my current saddle...adjust it to a flat level as recommended by most of the articles

derek.fulmer

Thanks for the reply. I rode a 60 cm trek on the initial model I was going to purchase and it felt comfortable. I'm not terribly worried as the shop is great to work with and I feel comfortable that if I wanted/needed a different frame size or even an entirely different model, they'd work with me. I didn't go through a "proper" fitting with them, or any shop for that matter. They initially put me on an FX hybrid and we estimated my size from the size of that bike. I trust this shops judgment but after learning about variances in brand measurements it has me doing research again haha.

sa7nt

I have speedplay zeroes on one of my bikes and they are much easier to get in and out of than a lot of other pedals out there when everything is adjusted correctly. You may need to lubricate the cleats or have the cleats adjusted. Your best bet is to practice on a trainer or to take your bike back to your LBS (along with your cleats/shoes) so they can look at the issue and see if something needs adjustment.