skin_psv

Hi guys, happy to finally posting something, I'm a watcher for a long time.

My problem is this, I have an old english (henry gregson - norman) steel bike 10 speed frame, with 27" wheels.
In my wish to make it better I brought over time a full group of ultegra components, and few campagnolo centaur and 105's, as well as I new headset (with and adapter to mount a straight stem on a threaded fork), stem, handlebars, a very lightweight saddle and so on, a new wheelset (700c because they were very light and find a good sale for them).

Now I'm starting to work on the bike, thinking of changing the fork also, for some weight loss, and because my new centaur brake calipers will not reach for the new wheels.
Also I need to buy adapters for STI cables, for the braze on FD, and I thought cutting the rear brake support, and soldering it a bit lower so the brake pads will reach. I saw this done on other bike, and it turned out great.

Now when I'm in front of all this effort and work, I'm just thinking about not putting nothing on this frame, and go for a new frame, and just keep this old frame and buy some NOS campa super record over time and make it a great vintage bike, and buy one new cheaper aluminum frame.

I'm thinking about merida 880, witch is available at my local bike shop, and the frame from what I see, it receives positive feedbacks on this article.
https://www.bikeradar.com/gear/catego...t/880-24-31955

What do you think ?

cheerse

weavers

upgrade the engine not the bike.

how much do you think your current steel frame weights? is it double butted? its probably 5-7lbs. with alum you might drop 1-4lbs off of your bike. this really won't effect speed, but will have a larger effect on comfort.if your running a super wide cassette(11-28 or bigger) and don't climb either start climbing or get a narrow gear cassette(12-21) for flats and foces on tighten up your cadence and intervals. mix this up with climbing. stronger legs will let you go farther faster and be more efficent than any upgrade. so either stop upgrading and get a new bike, keep old as comuuter/backup bike or sale to help with cost. your average mph won't go up by 5mph with any new frame.

most effective upgrades for speed is lightweight rims, sub 1500 grams or deep rim like +40mm and good 23c tyers like pro3 or cont 4ks.

skin_psv

thanks, for the answer.

The problem is I have all the parts, already and are new and not mounted on any frame.
Now I don't know if I should mount them on the old frame or buy one cheap but newer aluminum frame.

matkinstall

go for a new frame. keep the vintage bike vintage and put all the new stuff on a new bike that's actually designed for it. plus, you'll have two bikes which can be used more specifically. keep the vintage steel for slow, casual stuff and the modern aluminum piece for harder riding.

it's common for people here to recommend upgrading the rider, not the bike. this is good advice, and most of the time is more appropriate, but it's often in response to people who already have bikes worth thousands of dollars who are pondering the purchase of a new component that's 10% lighter/stiffer/shinier than the one it's replacing. your potential upgrade has legitimate tangible benefits.

do the right thing. buy a new frame.

skin_psv

Thanks, yes that's right I can see the benefit from having 2 bikes, I was just thinking that a new frame will give me no advantage to the old one, if there is not a big change in weight. Now I'm a bit clear with everything, I am heavily considering buying the new merida frame.

MKahrl

The brake calipers not reaching the rim is your first clue that the newer components you've purchased were meant for a different kind of bike. Your bike was designed for a time when a bike purchaser intended to do a lot of different things on just one bike. He would go to work, run errands, visit his girlfriend during the week and on the weekend he would ride it to a race, switch wheels, and race. Your bike could do all of these things including adjust the stem height up and down, mount luggage racks, fenders, use a variety of tire sizes and switch between 27" and tubular (700c) wheels.

The modern components you have are meant for the modern bike frame. Clearances around the fork and brake bridge have tightened so that the only a narrow size tire suitable for racing and nothing else will fit. The threadless stem was designed by frame manufacturers to make things easier for themselves, not you. Using an adapter just makes things worse in your case, you would be better off using the your original stem. You haven't mentioned seatpost but it may be a little work to find the right size as well. Your new rear wheel is probably too wide for the frame but at least with steel you can cold set the frame to fit.

I agree with the other posters, get a modern frame with tight clearances and build a racing style bike with your new components.

StanSeven

I agree. Keep your current bike in it's present state and build up a new bike. See if you can get your money back or at least a credit on the headset. It won't work on a new frame. It's 1" in diameter and new headsets are 1 1/8".

Threadless exist becuase they are lighter weight. A threadless headset, along with a CF or Al steerer tube on the fork, saves at least 1 lb over a threaded setup.

Also before you spent money for a new frame, take an inventory of what else you need to buy and what you already have you can return or sell on eBay. New bikes compeletly built up are sometimes cheaper because of discounts on a complete group. Also stores have sales this time of year

bbattle

Keep your old steel and buy some Ale.

Creakyknees

As a guy who rides old steel, I say keep the old bike as a classic, and get / build up a new bike for those "go fast" days. Never hurts to have a backup bike with a different ride feel etc., and besides, new bike lust is always a good incentive to get out and ride, which is good for you and fun.

Basil Moss

Build a new bike with an alu frame and your components. Keep it for racing and good weather.

Put mudguards on the steel bike, overhaul all the components (clean and lubricate) and keep it for rainy days- your clubmates will thank you if you add a flap to the end of the mudguard.

Seriously, there's way too much work in converting that frame to fit your components. You'd have to widen the dropouts at the back to fit the newer hub too. No point- keep it classic. Having more than one bike is a VERY GOOD THING for so many reasons:

-time to leave to meet your mates for the sunday clubrun, and you find a punctured tyre. Miss the ride, or take the other bike? Hmmm...

-You crash and wreck one of your bikes. Stop riding altogether while you repair or replace it? Or ride the other bike...

-Don't want to ride the nice bike on a wet day? Ride the other bike.

-Fancy a spot of touring? Most likely you can fit panniers to the older bike, as long as the wheels are robust and have plenty of spokes, you can have a nice week out ambling around the countryside.

-Want to ride with a group that goes slow up the hills? Ride the heavy bike, and get more excercise in the same ride.

-Friend visiting? Same height as you? Why not go for a bike ride!

-Running errands into town? Don't want to lock your shiny racing bike outside the shops? Take the old bike with mudguards no-one will look twice at.

skin_psv

Thanks for all the answers, it really makes sense. I will buy a new alu frame, and try to maintain the vintage bike as it is, use it as a spare bike.
As for the headset adapter, I'm in luck, that and the fork I was thinking to buy next week. Now instead of buying this parts, I'll order my new alu black frame. In rest I'm pretty much complete with the parts.

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