New Chain already?
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New Chain already?
So I did the ruler test today and it seems it's at about 12 1/16" already. I spun the chain around and tried it again just to double check and it was still the same. The question I have is I've only put about 2000 miles on it, is that normal? I meticulously clean and lube my chain at least once a week. Which usually involves pulling the chain, cassette, and chain rings and thoroughly cleaning all of them.
I've heard of people getting much more life out of their chains than this. So is this normal? Btw, it's a cn-5600 (105) shimano chain. While we're on subject, any recommendations for chains?
I've heard of people getting much more life out of their chains than this. So is this normal? Btw, it's a cn-5600 (105) shimano chain. While we're on subject, any recommendations for chains?
Last edited by wcoastbikr; 01-08-09 at 02:53 PM.
#2
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I usually change mine at 1500-2000 but I don't clean them real thoroughly.
The difference betwnn the 105, Ultegra and DA chains is the coating. DAs are the shiniest. I use DAs because they're only about $3 more than Ultegras.
The difference betwnn the 105, Ultegra and DA chains is the coating. DAs are the shiniest. I use DAs because they're only about $3 more than Ultegras.
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2,000 miles is usually the rule-of-thumb on chain life that I've seen, though you'll always find somebody on online forums who claims vastly superior [insert specific topic here] results.
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Regarding the dura ace chains, I've heard you need a special chain breaker for one. The chain that came with the bike has a quick disconnect thing. I was thinking of picking up a sram powerlink with the DA chain, but I'm probably going to have to remove a few links anyways, so do I need a specific tool for that? Or just any average chain breaker?
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Regarding the dura ace chains, I've heard you need a special chain breaker for one. The chain that came with the bike has a quick disconnect thing. I was thinking of picking up a sram powerlink with the DA chain, but I'm probably going to have to remove a few links anyways, so do I need a specific tool for that? Or just any average chain breaker?
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Chains wear out at different rates depending on manufacturer, rider weight, riding style, weather/riding conditions, maintenance type/intervals, etc....
.....Measure. Just like you did. Chain wear guides are simply jigs for measuring....same thing just built into the tool.
DA chains differ from Ultegra in the plating/coating. No performance difference. No weight difference. If you keep your chain lubricated then don't waste your money on a DA chain.
When breaking or joining a 10spd chain (really just joining) it is a pretty good idea to use a chainbreaker that was designed for the narrow 10spd widths. 10 spd Shimano chains have this nasty habit of breaking when the individual assembling them doesn't know what they're doing.....breaking while riding that is.
I recommend KMC for their 10spd chains. They supposedly make Shimano's chains (to Shimano's specs). Their DX model used to be available from Performance under the Forte brand name for something in the neighborhood of $25 on "sale". I no longer see it on Performance's site, but that may be because KMC has released a new 10spd chain (at roughly the same price) that is supposedly more resistant to "stretch".
I mentioned in another thread that it is currently available through Hawley (distributor). Contact your LBS for pricing.
.....Measure. Just like you did. Chain wear guides are simply jigs for measuring....same thing just built into the tool.
DA chains differ from Ultegra in the plating/coating. No performance difference. No weight difference. If you keep your chain lubricated then don't waste your money on a DA chain.
When breaking or joining a 10spd chain (really just joining) it is a pretty good idea to use a chainbreaker that was designed for the narrow 10spd widths. 10 spd Shimano chains have this nasty habit of breaking when the individual assembling them doesn't know what they're doing.....breaking while riding that is.
I recommend KMC for their 10spd chains. They supposedly make Shimano's chains (to Shimano's specs). Their DX model used to be available from Performance under the Forte brand name for something in the neighborhood of $25 on "sale". I no longer see it on Performance's site, but that may be because KMC has released a new 10spd chain (at roughly the same price) that is supposedly more resistant to "stretch".
I mentioned in another thread that it is currently available through Hawley (distributor). Contact your LBS for pricing.
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The issue with ones designed for older (wider) chains is that they have more play between the stops. It then can become possible to actually deflect the outer plate instead of actually seating the pin completely in it. You can easily over press it, or under press it, or set up a situation where the outerplates have spread and either one side or the other is completely seated, but not both.
You can pretty easily feel when that is happening when you do it, but those that are not aware of it frequently do not catch it. Instead of trying to explain all of that Shimano just says "use our 10spd specific chain breaker".
....I say use KMC with their "missing link" quick link.
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My chain lasts about 2,000 miles but is rarely clean. A lot depends on where and how you ride. I with that mileage I would assume the chain was dead. 500 miles would be time for a second opinion.
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I go basically one year/~8000-9000 miles on a chain. Mine measured 12 3/8" when I replaced it, but it still shifted great.
I prefer to replace the chain and rear cassette once a year instead of trying to prolong the cassette.
The chain I use costs $40 and the cassette is around $60 so that is an annual cost of $100 instead of $160 for 4 chains a year (assuming a change every 2000 miles)
I prefer to replace the chain and rear cassette once a year instead of trying to prolong the cassette.
The chain I use costs $40 and the cassette is around $60 so that is an annual cost of $100 instead of $160 for 4 chains a year (assuming a change every 2000 miles)
#12
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Use a precision scale. Place one end on the edge of a pin. The pin at the oppsite end will be completely covered, when new. When nearly half of the covered pin is exposed, you've reached 1/16" per foot elongation. If it only took 2,000 miles to do that, then your chain lube or cleaning procedure needs work. 4000 miles for this amount of elongation would be very good for a Shimano chain. A Campy chain would measure almost like new, but the rollers would still be worn, although not to their limit. There is no free lunch.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...steelruler.php
I'd be disappointed if I didn't get 4-6,000 from a Campy chain. I had a Campy chain show less than 1/32" per foot of elongation after 6,000 miles, but the rollers were well worn and the side clearance was nearly twice the orginal amount.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...steelruler.php
I'd be disappointed if I didn't get 4-6,000 from a Campy chain. I had a Campy chain show less than 1/32" per foot of elongation after 6,000 miles, but the rollers were well worn and the side clearance was nearly twice the orginal amount.
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Those missing links also work with shimano chains i think. Shimano chain pins are a pain. first time installing new chain i stuffed it up ruined the pin that came with the chain and the missing link saved the day
#14
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I have never replaced a chain except when upgrading a group. I My last bike I had for 15+ years and upgraded from 8-speed to 9-speed so had a chain change. I have only contemplated changing my current SRAM chain only because it is noisy as ..., well you know. keep them lubed but not necessarily clean.
#15
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I usually get 3500-4000 km (2500 miles) out of the chains on my fixed gear and ss bikes and 2000 out of my gearies... the lateral stresses on the geared chain tend to cause faster wear.
After a few chains the rest of your drive train will probably be due to be overhauled.
How well you maintain your chain and drive has a lot to do with how long it lasts.
I live in a semi arid climate that has a lot of clay dust in the summer and tons of road crud in the winter and folks living in climates without these types of environmental contaminants can often get a much longer chain life.
After a few chains the rest of your drive train will probably be due to be overhauled.
How well you maintain your chain and drive has a lot to do with how long it lasts.
I live in a semi arid climate that has a lot of clay dust in the summer and tons of road crud in the winter and folks living in climates without these types of environmental contaminants can often get a much longer chain life.
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So I decided just to do it...
Bought a spin doctor tool, KMC missing link (had it on my old chain and it was handy, and $2 at the LBS was a deal), and a DA chain. My god the thing shifts so much smoother and is sooooo much more quieter.
The chain shifts better than when the old one was new. Most notably shifting from the small ring to the big ring up front. I definitely like the DA chain over the 105 chain.
Thanks everyone.
Bought a spin doctor tool, KMC missing link (had it on my old chain and it was handy, and $2 at the LBS was a deal), and a DA chain. My god the thing shifts so much smoother and is sooooo much more quieter.
The chain shifts better than when the old one was new. Most notably shifting from the small ring to the big ring up front. I definitely like the DA chain over the 105 chain.
Thanks everyone.
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Actually I got a DA 10-sp chain at the local Performance store today for $30. The Ultegra 10-sp chain was $42. Employee couldn't explain it... relied on "we're corporate, what can I say." Bottom line, keep your eye open for a bargain. If you see one, get it, and put it away for when you'll need to replace the chain.
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2,000 miles is about right for me too. I generally look for deals on DA chains and buy them when they are cheap. No problem keeping them and then I replace when they go over the 1/8" mark. I don't use the KMC link, but I keep a small jar with spare pins, and that can be handy if you ever aren't satisfied with the results after putting one on. If there is the slightest concern, I pop it out and put in a new pin.
#19
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I use high end KMC and SRAM chain...the KMC might be a little noisier but the lifespan of each is pretty much the same.
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I think I might win the shortest chain life award. I just replaced the chain on my fixed, which has been on there maybe 2 or 3 months. I just never cleaned it, just a squirt of oil now and then... So if course it's full of cack from riding in all sorts of filthy weather. The chains on my best bike lasts for ages, I clean it every couple of weeks, I was quite surprised when I dropped the chain measure into it this morning! Shows how much difference cleaning it makes, I'll take more care of this one.