My bike was photographed at a car forum meet.
#151
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I'm from Africa originally, but have spent time in the USA(studied in California) and in Europe, where i now live..
#152
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In*s*anity?
Yes, and I know first hand that AWD doesn't permit as much slippage as 2WD, and if the tires don't give, something has to, so the clutch will cook.
I personally think that AWD should only stay on roads with adverse conditions. And since RWD is so expensive new... I am going to stick with FWD, I understand which is faster, but I just think that it doesn't matter that much. And besides, if I decide to race, class racing is all stock and equal, it's all driver, and multi-class touring is more favorable to FF's.
If I really wanted performance for 30k new, I would get a cheap sports coupe like an RX8 or something or a car from the new class of "econo drift coupes" with the new Silvia, AE86, or the Genesis. Or I would get a Miata. But I don't like any of the new RWD coupes or the current Miata. And also there is the problem with insurance rates.
Thus, insurance rates will be lower, but I am not that inexperienced...
Sweet!
No.
The key componant is the *tire*.
If the tire is sticky enough (think drag slick on a dragstrip coated with VHT and rubber) or the power low enough (think kart) then RWD > AWD > FWD.
If the car is in any way traction limited, due to hard tires, narrow tires, an abundance of power compared to the tire's grip level, or slippery surface conditions (wet, snow, gravel, etc) then AWD > RWD > FWD.
FWD is an advantage in three areas only:
1. Packaging. Having the drivetrain forward of the firewall means more room for occupants/cargo;
2. Cost - there's less parts, so it is cheaper; and
2. In the case of very loose or slippery surfaces (like snow) where maximum grip is surface limited, not weight transfer limited, FWD benefits from having the foward static weight distribution over the drive wheels. (Think driving a Trans-Am in the snow) In this case, AWD >FWD > RWD
Do you know how a clutch works?
DG
The key componant is the *tire*.
If the tire is sticky enough (think drag slick on a dragstrip coated with VHT and rubber) or the power low enough (think kart) then RWD > AWD > FWD.
If the car is in any way traction limited, due to hard tires, narrow tires, an abundance of power compared to the tire's grip level, or slippery surface conditions (wet, snow, gravel, etc) then AWD > RWD > FWD.
FWD is an advantage in three areas only:
1. Packaging. Having the drivetrain forward of the firewall means more room for occupants/cargo;
2. Cost - there's less parts, so it is cheaper; and
2. In the case of very loose or slippery surfaces (like snow) where maximum grip is surface limited, not weight transfer limited, FWD benefits from having the foward static weight distribution over the drive wheels. (Think driving a Trans-Am in the snow) In this case, AWD >FWD > RWD
Do you know how a clutch works?
DG
I personally think that AWD should only stay on roads with adverse conditions. And since RWD is so expensive new... I am going to stick with FWD, I understand which is faster, but I just think that it doesn't matter that much. And besides, if I decide to race, class racing is all stock and equal, it's all driver, and multi-class touring is more favorable to FF's.
If I really wanted performance for 30k new, I would get a cheap sports coupe like an RX8 or something or a car from the new class of "econo drift coupes" with the new Silvia, AE86, or the Genesis. Or I would get a Miata. But I don't like any of the new RWD coupes or the current Miata. And also there is the problem with insurance rates.
Plus, for the average driver, FWD is safer than RWD. Spinning the front wheels in a turn won't make the car swap ends, it'll just understeer really badly. Then, when they freak out and let off the gas, the tires will eventually (hopefully) regain their grip and start pointing the car where it needs to go.
Sweet!
#153
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https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/inanity
inanity
One entry found.
Main Entry:
inan·i·ty Listen to the pronunciation of inanity
Pronunciation:
\i-ˈna-nə-tē\
Function:
noun
Inflected Form(s):
plural inan·i·ties
Date:
1603
1: the quality or state of being inane: as a: lack of substance : emptiness b: vapid, pointless, or fatuous character : shallowness
2: something that is inane
inanity
One entry found.
Main Entry:
inan·i·ty Listen to the pronunciation of inanity
Pronunciation:
\i-ˈna-nə-tē\
Function:
noun
Inflected Form(s):
plural inan·i·ties
Date:
1603
1: the quality or state of being inane: as a: lack of substance : emptiness b: vapid, pointless, or fatuous character : shallowness
2: something that is inane
#155
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https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/inanity
inanity
One entry found.
Main Entry:
inan·i·ty Listen to the pronunciation of inanity
Pronunciation:
\i-ˈna-nə-tē\
Function:
noun
Inflected Form(s):
plural inan·i·ties
Date:
1603
1: the quality or state of being inane: as a: lack of substance : emptiness b: vapid, pointless, or fatuous character : shallowness
2: something that is inane
inanity
One entry found.
Main Entry:
inan·i·ty Listen to the pronunciation of inanity
Pronunciation:
\i-ˈna-nə-tē\
Function:
noun
Inflected Form(s):
plural inan·i·ties
Date:
1603
1: the quality or state of being inane: as a: lack of substance : emptiness b: vapid, pointless, or fatuous character : shallowness
2: something that is inane
According to that definition, practically everything online is inane.
Lol, so what did you think of the rest of the bike?
#156
Senior Member
If you are cooking your clutch with the clutch fully engaged, either your clutch is worn out or misadjusted or you've modded your engine to the point where it's exceeded the holding capacity of your stock clutch.
#157
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
When something doesn't give while trying to apply power through the wheels of a vehicle, the vehicle accelerates which tends to be a good thing in a race of any kind.
If you are cooking your clutch with the clutch fully engaged, either your clutch is worn out or misadjusted or you've modded your engine to the point where it's exceeded the holding capacity of your stock clutch.
If you are cooking your clutch with the clutch fully engaged, either your clutch is worn out or misadjusted or you've modded your engine to the point where it's exceeded the holding capacity of your stock clutch.
I need to do it with my Civic, especially at the dragstrip. Keep the revs high, pedal the gas & clutch just a bit to keep the tires from breaking traction completely while also keeping them from hooking up and bogging down the motor. If I dump the clutch, I get horrendous wheelhop, which can only really be solved with more solid engine mounts; but I don't want to live with a vibrating cabin on the street, either.
So, yeah, the clutch takes a lot of abuse, even in my car. Adding AWD grip will end up putting more abuse on the clutch.
#159
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When something doesn't give while trying to apply power through the wheels of a vehicle, the vehicle accelerates which tends to be a good thing in a race of any kind.
If you are cooking your clutch with the clutch fully engaged, either your clutch is worn out or misadjusted or you've modded your engine to the point where it's exceeded the holding capacity of your stock clutch.
If you are cooking your clutch with the clutch fully engaged, either your clutch is worn out or misadjusted or you've modded your engine to the point where it's exceeded the holding capacity of your stock clutch.
I think he's meaning to talk about slipping the clutch when launching the car.
I need to do it with my Civic, especially at the dragstrip. Keep the revs high, pedal the gas & clutch just a bit to keep the tires from breaking traction completely while also keeping them from hooking up and bogging down the motor. If I dump the clutch, I get horrendous wheelhop, which can only really be solved with more solid engine mounts; but I don't want to live with a vibrating cabin on the street, either.
So, yeah, the clutch takes a lot of abuse, even in my car. Adding AWD grip will end up putting more abuse on the clutch.
I need to do it with my Civic, especially at the dragstrip. Keep the revs high, pedal the gas & clutch just a bit to keep the tires from breaking traction completely while also keeping them from hooking up and bogging down the motor. If I dump the clutch, I get horrendous wheelhop, which can only really be solved with more solid engine mounts; but I don't want to live with a vibrating cabin on the street, either.
So, yeah, the clutch takes a lot of abuse, even in my car. Adding AWD grip will end up putting more abuse on the clutch.
Great bike dude!! Have fun and enjoy it.
#160
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#162
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Not sure that engine mounts have anything to do with your traction, but I'm just having trouble getting over "Civic" and "dragstrip" in the same sentance.
#163
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Right, I laugh at your perception that "nothing giving" is an option... If nothing gives, you are going too slow.
Our ProSolo car - an AWD talon - would do low 1.6 second 60' times on unprepared concrete. 0-60 times in 3.2-3.4 seconds. And it could got WOT without wheelspin pretty much at will - this with 350 HP and nearly 400 ft-lb of torque.
It took a lot, and I do mean a LOT of work to get it that way. Working out the interaction between three differentials was quite the challenge. But it got us to the point where the driver could stop on the gas and the only thing that happened was the car accelerated.
That car won a metric assload of races. It was many things, but "slow" was not one of them.
Oh, and the clutch in that car lasted 7 seasons and as far as I know is still in the car. Notwithstanding 5500 rpm stutterbox clutchdrop launches (a minimum of 12 per event, and 16 was the average) the car was very kind to clutches. Centre diffs, not so much.
DG
#164
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#167
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#169
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
*add-on* And besides, if the dragstrip was only good for driving faster than the other guy, it's immediately useless for 99.9999% of the people who drive there. Because, no matter how fast they are, somebody else is going to be faster. That remaining .0001% is probably going to be faster than everyone else... at least as long as they have a good run that day.
What the stock engine mounts do is absorb vibrations from the engine. The side effect is that the mounts' rubber bushings, along with the inboard mounts of the A-arms, let the whole engine-drivetrain-suspension combo move around.
Basically, the whole drivetrain will rock until the tires break traction, then wheels flick back and bounce off the pavement, regain grip, and do it all again. The whole front of the car shakes violently, and there's a risk of breaking stuff off the car.
Going all the way to solid engine & suspension mounts keeps the drivetrain from shaking around and keeps the wheels planted. But, they transmit every vibration to the rest of the car, so you'll feel it pretty badly in the passenger compartment. That's fine when you're racing, but it sucks when you're crawling along the beltway.
There are also urethane mounts of various hardnesses which balance between wheelhop and cabin vibrations however you'd like. But, they can wear out after a while, because urethane doesn't spring back to its shape very well. There are also mounts made with harder rubber that are more useful for daily use and better wheelhop control than stock mounts.
Last edited by BarracksSi; 02-02-09 at 09:38 AM.
#170
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IOW you no nothing about cars. You should stick to your Walmart bike.
Mmmm hmmm... Right, I learned it somewhere else, and through some experience, if your tires don't chirp, you didn't start hard enough.
Last edited by Atlantian; 02-02-09 at 11:54 PM.
#171
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Right, I learned it somewhere else, and through some experience
As well, there are a number of respondants who are pro bike mechanics, and a couple of serious (if not pro, for sure upper level amatuer) road bike racers.
These people have FAR more experience than you do. Some may have been doing what they do longer than you have been alive.
Rather than arguing with them, you should be listening to them. You benefit in the long run.
DG
#172
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I would think that your largest hurdle on fwd drag cars would be torque-steer. My car (stock) is FWD and is a V6 with 275 hp at the crank - If I stomp on the gas with my hand off the wheel, I'll end up in the lane to my left instantly.
#173
ride, paint, ride
#175
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He used to be a car mechanic I'm sure he knows more about cars than you realise . He and I talk about cars all the time.