changing to a SRAM red 11-28
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changing to a SRAM red 11-28
I am thinking of getting a SRAM OG-1090 Red 10-Speed Cassette 11-28. I currently ride on a Shimano Dura ace 12-27. The above is lighter and I get two more gear options. My plans are to ride in the mountains, plus Durango to Silverton (have not done this yet) plus a race in Davis mountains, Texas (first race). I have ridden in mountains of 8000 -9000 ft elevations and many hills where I live. just that the other combination I think it may help make it easer & Faster.
My questions are:
Will this give me the advantage quicker and ease up mountains?
How many of you in the mountains use them?
Do I need to get a chain the works with the new cassette vs CN7800?
I am in the process of buying a new chain (plus replacing the crank set FSA K-force light compact ceramic) so I was thinking should I upgrade the cassette while I am doing so.
I just recently got some HED jet 50s and can tell a big difference and really like these tweaks that add to the performance efficiency.
Thanks for any information
My questions are:
Will this give me the advantage quicker and ease up mountains?
How many of you in the mountains use them?
Do I need to get a chain the works with the new cassette vs CN7800?
I am in the process of buying a new chain (plus replacing the crank set FSA K-force light compact ceramic) so I was thinking should I upgrade the cassette while I am doing so.
I just recently got some HED jet 50s and can tell a big difference and really like these tweaks that add to the performance efficiency.
Thanks for any information
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I am thinking of getting a SRAM OG-1090 Red 10-Speed Cassette 11-28. I currently ride on a Shimano Dura ace 12-27. The above is lighter and I get two more gear options. My plans are to ride in the mountains, plus Durango to Silverton (have not done this yet) plus a race in Davis mountains, Texas (first race). I have ridden in mountains of 8000 -9000 ft elevations and many hills where I live. just that the other combination I think it may help make it easer & Faster.
My questions are:
Will this give me the advantage quicker and ease up mountains?
How many of you in the mountains use them?
Do I need to get a chain the works with the new cassette vs CN7800?
I am in the process of buying a new chain (plus replacing the crank set FSA K-force light compact ceramic) so I was thinking should I upgrade the cassette while I am doing so.
I just recently got some HED jet 50s and can tell a big difference and really like these tweaks that add to the performance efficiency.
Thanks for any information
My questions are:
Will this give me the advantage quicker and ease up mountains?
How many of you in the mountains use them?
Do I need to get a chain the works with the new cassette vs CN7800?
I am in the process of buying a new chain (plus replacing the crank set FSA K-force light compact ceramic) so I was thinking should I upgrade the cassette while I am doing so.
I just recently got some HED jet 50s and can tell a big difference and really like these tweaks that add to the performance efficiency.
Thanks for any information
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A one-tooth-larger cassette will provide negligible (i.e., unnoticeable) advantage in climbing, and the weight difference will be nil. Plus, Durango to Silverton (I presume you are doing the Iron Horse Classic) does not involve much in the way of hellacious grades - just long, steady climbing.
If you really want more climbing ability, go with a compact (50-34) crankset.
If you really want more climbing ability, go with a compact (50-34) crankset.
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I ride 50/34 with a 10sp 12/27 - I doubt you'd notice much difference between a 27 and a 28T cog, but you might fing that you miss some of your other gears though
Shimano 12/27 - 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,24,27
SRAM 11/28 - 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,22,25,28
At the end of the day, you need to work out what gearing you're comfortable with on climbs - I like keeping the 27 as my bail out and find the progression from 21 down is pretty reasonable on a 12/27 - YMMV
Shimano 12/27 - 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,24,27
SRAM 11/28 - 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,22,25,28
At the end of the day, you need to work out what gearing you're comfortable with on climbs - I like keeping the 27 as my bail out and find the progression from 21 down is pretty reasonable on a 12/27 - YMMV
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If your dura-ace cassette still has life left on it, keep riding it. Maybe when it dies, replace it with an 11-28 cassette and see if you notice any difference (I doubt you will). Also keep in mind the new 7900 DA cassette is now available in 11-28 too.
You won't need a new chain.
You won't need a new chain.
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You won't need a new chain, the 27->28 will be a tiny difference, and you can save a lot of money by getting the 1070 11-28 and seeing if you like it instead of spending gobs on the 1090.
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i felt that the 11-28 was to big of a swing...i just couldn't find a comfortable cadence most of the time. the jump from cog to cog was just too big.
just my opinion though, it was really annoying on fast group rides and races.
just my opinion though, it was really annoying on fast group rides and races.
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Yeah, not a great cassette for everyday riding but can be nice in the mountains where you are either going really fast or really slow. I now have an 11-23, 11-26, and 11-28 and select the appropriate one for what I am going to be doing.
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I have the sram red 11-23 that I ride everday and an 11-28 for mountain rides, like the Snowbird Hill Climb. It is a good cassette for that like UMD said, but I don't like it anytime other than that!
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Sram 11-28 has 19.22.25.28
Dura-Ace 7900 11-28 has 19.21.24.28
A slight difference that might take a bit of getting used to either way depending on what you're expecting when utilizing the lowest four gears.
Dura-Ace 7900 11-28 has 19.21.24.28
A slight difference that might take a bit of getting used to either way depending on what you're expecting when utilizing the lowest four gears.
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I switched from a DA 12-27 to a SRAM Rival 11-28 and I like it. I ride in the hills and I quickly found that I maxed out on both the high and low ends with the 12-27. In other words, I like the extra half a gear at both ends and I don't notice the large jumps in between.
By the way, I ride a 50-34 compact.
By the way, I ride a 50-34 compact.
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If you think you need another gear for the Fort Davis Hammerfest, just get a triple. Trust me. I borrowed my wife's bike for it last year because she has a triple. I used every gear on that bike. I was pedaling at 6 mph up that dam hill, then in the big ring coming back down doing close to 60. Just get a triple. You won't regret it. I promise.
That said, the Hammerfest is a great race. Most of the Cat 5s are pretty experienced so there aren't too many crashes going up hill. Going down hill was another story. One guy told me to be careful going down after the Observatory climb. He then proceeded to crash into the mountain on his way down. He broke his Force shifters, but the Lightweight wheels were fine. He was out of the race after that.
That said, the Hammerfest is a great race. Most of the Cat 5s are pretty experienced so there aren't too many crashes going up hill. Going down hill was another story. One guy told me to be careful going down after the Observatory climb. He then proceeded to crash into the mountain on his way down. He broke his Force shifters, but the Lightweight wheels were fine. He was out of the race after that.
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To the OP, I would just wait until your 12-27 wears out, then get an 11-28. It's a tiny difference.
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I have a compact and sounds like the SRam will be useful for such events.
I will be doing Hammerfest in Fort Davis, womans cat4 hopefully no crashes
I will be doing Hammerfest in Fort Davis, womans cat4 hopefully no crashes
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Why no comments on the 11t? I swapped the 12t for an 11t on an old cassette and could pedal away from my riding partner on every descent (both riding 50x34 compacts with him on 12x27 and me on 11x27). And, IRC, a 50x11 set-up is faster than a 52x12. Speed is a smiler maker!
Also, a 1t change up front is about the same as a3-4t change up front, right? So, it makes sense to add teeth in the back unless you want to go for broke and get a triple.
Also, a 1t change up front is about the same as a3-4t change up front, right? So, it makes sense to add teeth in the back unless you want to go for broke and get a triple.
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edit: Oh, and I do find the 11 to be nice after about 38 mph, which is where I started feeling uncomfortable spinning for that long in the 12.
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Pro bike kit has
DA 7900 instock.. including the 11-28, 175.24 (NB 11-27 and 11-28 cassettes are only compatible with RD7900 (rear derailleur) 11-28 cassettes are not compatible with RD7970 ( DI2 electric series Dura Ace)
For Super Narrow 10-speed HG chains Weight: 163 grams for 11-23 tooth
and the SRAM Red 11-28 178.94 Weight: 155g / 11-23, 166g / 11-26
just more data to consider...
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The DA 7900 incompatibility is I why would not go there, less to change with the SRAM . I am leaning towards getting the SRAM 11-28 and just change out the cassettes (like UMD mention) to as needed for the ride. I like the idea of swapping the 12T for the 11T on the 12-27, especially if I can change out the sprocket, as Urbanknight mention.
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I'm considering the same thing... we have THREE hill climbs this season.. that would be my primary use for them.. rest of the season is mainly flat CRITs...