IRDs, and I guess they could be fakes, but I'm thinking not. I know one can find a lot of fake stuff, if one cares to look, but turning a profit on counterfeit goods requires a certain critical mass of demand/cachet/high cost, of which these only qualify for one: high cost.
I spent last year on a 105 bike with an actual 105 crank...and the feel/shifting was far smoother than the FSA. the FSA is clunky, loud (has a funky ring to it) and shifts crappy. I don't relate any of this to the crankarms. I upgraded to an Ultegra chain (came with a Tiagra) and while it smoothed things up a bit, front shifting is still clunky no matter how much I fiddle with the derailure.
ill post on here later next week after I get it in and install it. I'm hoping it lives up to its reviews...which routinely compare it to the shifting feel of a Dura Ace chainring.
Lastly...concerning carbon handlebars...they worry me too. I landed up going to Ritchey alloy bars which are silly light...you may want to look into something like that.
2011 Felt Z85 105 | Ultegra | KMC | Selle Italia | Vuelta | Topeak
90's-ish KHS Alite 1000 MTB, *hybridized*
Purchased an Easton EA70 stem (90mm, °6) to replace the Specialized (75mm, 8°) on the Roubaix.
Currently set up as a "rise". Will probably flip it as I become more fit and comfortable.
Last edited by cmschmie; 07-01-13 at 01:34 PM.
Pro Barrier Skull Cap
Pro Barrier Leg Warmers
Quality looks and feels great. Fits perfect, granted it may be a bit before I ride with them as it's 97 outside currently. (60's last week) Darn heat waves.
"Human beings were not meant to sit in little cubicles starring at computer screens all day!" -Peter Gibbons
Ordered a pair of Gatorskins. My current pair has 3500 miles, and only had one flat. Its been pretty solid for my training, and commuting rides.
Bought this(standard rings) to replace older version FSA SL-K Light cranks.
Last edited by Elduderino2412; 07-01-13 at 07:49 PM.
Bought the Park cable cutter. I was up to 4 bikes that needed some kind of cable work in my house. I figured it was $9/cut this way, much cheaper than having the shop do the whole job.
I also bought a full Campy derailleur cable set. I needed 2 derailleur cables and one piece of housing for 3 of the 4 bikes, and this one set had everything I needed. The 4th bike needs brake cables, and has needed them since I first got the bike 30 years ago! The braking on that bike has always been stiff, and it has those old Modolo Kronos levers. New teflon cables might do the trick, and I already have a set of Jagwires.
Purchased 07/01/2013, a barely/rarely used 2011 Trek Project One custom ordered Madone 6.9 SSL, US bulit OCLV2 Carbon, Dura-Ace Di2 e, Ultegra 170 50/34 Crankset , F&R brakes, Bontrager RLX wheel set, RXX Stem, RXL Bar set, Ultegra Peds, Duo Tap, Charger.
Like new ride, less than 500 miles on the clock, not ridden by PO in past 10 months.
Took into my local Trek shop, assembled, added air, check out perfect, no other work or parts/repairs needed. My local Trek dealer ran the s/n on bike, all OK, registered it for me, and determined from TREK Proj. One team that, MSRP for this build was right at $8k in Nov 2011, while I paid $2k for it including shipping from Illinois to Texas.
Here it is.....
Today, added new Garmin Edge 810, orderd Knog light set. Will make its local Texas debut Saturday.
Last edited by Rewillia; 07-03-13 at 03:40 PM. Reason: photo adds, text edits.
I hope the pic is before you adjusted the seat; it has a rather large downward angle. That looks like a pretty long stem and stretch. Where is your head when you are on the bike? I test rode a WSD Trek that was too small and my head felt like it was too far forward. Did you try the next frame size up?
2012 Cannondale Synapse 3, 2012 Trek 7.5 FX Disc, 2003 Trek 2200 WSD, 1997 Specialized Rockhopper Al Comp