Your Most Recent Cycling-related Purchase
#9601
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You're keeping the FSA crank and going with the PW chainwheels? After you have a few hundred miles on them it would be interesting to read your comments on how well you like them.
On a somewhat-related front, I ride with a guy who has some nice high-end carbon bars. He wouldn't tell me what he paid for them when I asked, he just said they were big dollars. Knowing him, big dollars means >$250, probably >$300. We shop at the same LBS, nothing is cheap there. Anyway, I'd never heard of the brand, so I was curious and went home after riding with him a few days ago to see what these bars go for on eBay, and I found a set for $50. Basically new. There are still occasional deals out there.
Regarding the Praxis Works chainwheels, the LBS I referred to above is a dealer. I might want to get a pair one of these days. I have mediocre FSAs as well, and I'm good to go for the next several thousand miles, but maybe one of these days...
On a somewhat-related front, I ride with a guy who has some nice high-end carbon bars. He wouldn't tell me what he paid for them when I asked, he just said they were big dollars. Knowing him, big dollars means >$250, probably >$300. We shop at the same LBS, nothing is cheap there. Anyway, I'd never heard of the brand, so I was curious and went home after riding with him a few days ago to see what these bars go for on eBay, and I found a set for $50. Basically new. There are still occasional deals out there.
Regarding the Praxis Works chainwheels, the LBS I referred to above is a dealer. I might want to get a pair one of these days. I have mediocre FSAs as well, and I'm good to go for the next several thousand miles, but maybe one of these days...
#9602
Slacker
Join Date: May 2009
Location: North Orange County, in Southern California
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Bikes: 1986 Peugeot Orient Express, 1987 Trek 560 Pro, 1983 SR Semi Pro, 2010 Motobecane Le Champion Titanium, 2011 Trek Fuel EX8
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#9603
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You're keeping the FSA crank and going with the PW chainwheels? After you have a few hundred miles on them it would be interesting to read your comments on how well you like them.
On a somewhat-related front, I ride with a guy who has some nice high-end carbon bars. He wouldn't tell me what he paid for them when I asked, he just said they were big dollars. Knowing him, big dollars means >$250, probably >$300. We shop at the same LBS, nothing is cheap there. Anyway, I'd never heard of the brand, so I was curious and went home after riding with him a few days ago to see what these bars go for on eBay, and I found a set for $50. Basically new. There are still occasional deals out there.
Regarding the Praxis Works chainwheels, the LBS I referred to above is a dealer. I might want to get a pair one of these days. I have mediocre FSAs as well, and I'm good to go for the next several thousand miles, but maybe one of these days...
On a somewhat-related front, I ride with a guy who has some nice high-end carbon bars. He wouldn't tell me what he paid for them when I asked, he just said they were big dollars. Knowing him, big dollars means >$250, probably >$300. We shop at the same LBS, nothing is cheap there. Anyway, I'd never heard of the brand, so I was curious and went home after riding with him a few days ago to see what these bars go for on eBay, and I found a set for $50. Basically new. There are still occasional deals out there.
Regarding the Praxis Works chainwheels, the LBS I referred to above is a dealer. I might want to get a pair one of these days. I have mediocre FSAs as well, and I'm good to go for the next several thousand miles, but maybe one of these days...
I spent last year on a 105 bike with an actual 105 crank...and the feel/shifting was far smoother than the FSA. the FSA is clunky, loud (has a funky ring to it) and shifts crappy. I don't relate any of this to the crankarms. I upgraded to an Ultegra chain (came with a Tiagra) and while it smoothed things up a bit, front shifting is still clunky no matter how much I fiddle with the derailure.
ill post on here later next week after I get it in and install it. I'm hoping it lives up to its reviews...which routinely compare it to the shifting feel of a Dura Ace chainring.
Lastly...concerning carbon handlebars...they worry me too. I landed up going to Ritchey alloy bars which are silly light...you may want to look into something like that.
#9604
negligent.
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Vittoria Open Corsa Evo SC. I love this tire, and pricing/availability lately suggests Vittoria may be preparing to can them...so I've been stocking up a bit.
#9606
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#9607
Old. Slow. Happy.
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https://www.gravelbike.com/?p=2109
Everybody is different, but it was like an epiphany for me the very first time I used Skratch Labs.
#9608
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Location: Memphis TN area
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for now...yes. The FSA crank seems ok for the time being, the motion is smooth and the crank amrs seems sturdy. Truth be told, I'm afraid of carbon crank arms (and carbon handlebars)...seen too many picks of them exploding where the pedal screws in.
I spent last year on a 105 bike with an actual 105 crank...and the feel/shifting was far smoother than the FSA. the FSA is clunky, loud (has a funky ring to it) and shifts crappy. I don't relate any of this to the crankarms. I upgraded to an Ultegra chain (came with a Tiagra) and while it smoothed things up a bit, front shifting is still clunky no matter how much I fiddle with the derailure.
ill post on here later next week after I get it in and install it. I'm hoping it lives up to its reviews...which routinely compare it to the shifting feel of a Dura Ace chainring.
Lastly...concerning carbon handlebars...they worry me too. I landed up going to Ritchey alloy bars which are silly light...you may want to look into something like that.
I spent last year on a 105 bike with an actual 105 crank...and the feel/shifting was far smoother than the FSA. the FSA is clunky, loud (has a funky ring to it) and shifts crappy. I don't relate any of this to the crankarms. I upgraded to an Ultegra chain (came with a Tiagra) and while it smoothed things up a bit, front shifting is still clunky no matter how much I fiddle with the derailure.
ill post on here later next week after I get it in and install it. I'm hoping it lives up to its reviews...which routinely compare it to the shifting feel of a Dura Ace chainring.
Lastly...concerning carbon handlebars...they worry me too. I landed up going to Ritchey alloy bars which are silly light...you may want to look into something like that.
#9609
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
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Here's my review:
https://www.gravelbike.com/?p=2109
Everybody is different, but it was like an epiphany for me the very first time I used Skratch Labs.
https://www.gravelbike.com/?p=2109
Everybody is different, but it was like an epiphany for me the very first time I used Skratch Labs.
#9611
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Maybe this would be reason enough for me to upgrade my crank in the near future, at least from the FSA to 105 to match the rest of the bike's components. If I shift down from the big ring in just the right spot, the teeth on the big ring are such that it sends the chain over past the small ring and onto the BB shell. It's not the FD that's doing it, it's the big chain ring itself.
#9612
MyBikeRunsonNukePower
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charlotte
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Bikes: 2013 Specialized Roubaix Expert / 2009 Specialized Allez Elite
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Purchased an Easton EA70 stem (90mm, °6) to replace the Specialized (75mm, 8°) on the Roubaix.
Currently set up as a "rise". Will probably flip it as I become more fit and comfortable.
Currently set up as a "rise". Will probably flip it as I become more fit and comfortable.
Last edited by cmschmie; 07-01-13 at 01:34 PM.
#9613
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Pro Barrier Skull Cap
Pro Barrier Leg Warmers
Quality looks and feels great. Fits perfect, granted it may be a bit before I ride with them as it's 97 outside currently. (60's last week) Darn heat waves.
#9615
Tour De French Fries
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Bought this(standard rings) to replace older version FSA SL-K Light cranks.
Last edited by Elduderino2412; 07-01-13 at 07:49 PM.
#9616
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#9618
Senior Member
Bought the Park cable cutter. I was up to 4 bikes that needed some kind of cable work in my house. I figured it was $9/cut this way, much cheaper than having the shop do the whole job.
I also bought a full Campy derailleur cable set. I needed 2 derailleur cables and one piece of housing for 3 of the 4 bikes, and this one set had everything I needed. The 4th bike needs brake cables, and has needed them since I first got the bike 30 years ago! The braking on that bike has always been stiff, and it has those old Modolo Kronos levers. New teflon cables might do the trick, and I already have a set of Jagwires.
I also bought a full Campy derailleur cable set. I needed 2 derailleur cables and one piece of housing for 3 of the 4 bikes, and this one set had everything I needed. The 4th bike needs brake cables, and has needed them since I first got the bike 30 years ago! The braking on that bike has always been stiff, and it has those old Modolo Kronos levers. New teflon cables might do the trick, and I already have a set of Jagwires.
#9619
Member
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Location: NE Houston, Houston, Texas
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Bikes: Road, mountain, cruiser, and e-bikes
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Purchased 07/01/2013, a barely/rarely used 2011 Trek Project One custom ordered Madone 6.9 SSL, US bulit OCLV2 Carbon, Dura-Ace Di2 e, Ultegra 170 50/34 Crankset , F&R brakes, Bontrager RLX wheel set, RXX Stem, RXL Bar set, Ultegra Peds, Duo Tap, Charger.
Like new ride, less than 500 miles on the clock, not ridden by PO in past 10 months.
Took into my local Trek shop, assembled, added air, check out perfect, no other work or parts/repairs needed. My local Trek dealer ran the s/n on bike, all OK, registered it for me, and determined from TREK Proj. One team that, MSRP for this build was right at $8k in Nov 2011, while I paid $2k for it including shipping from Illinois to Texas.
Here it is.....
EditedUpdated 07/03/13;
Today, added new Garmin Edge 810, orderd Knog light set. Will make its local Texas debut Saturday.
Like new ride, less than 500 miles on the clock, not ridden by PO in past 10 months.
Took into my local Trek shop, assembled, added air, check out perfect, no other work or parts/repairs needed. My local Trek dealer ran the s/n on bike, all OK, registered it for me, and determined from TREK Proj. One team that, MSRP for this build was right at $8k in Nov 2011, while I paid $2k for it including shipping from Illinois to Texas.
Here it is.....
EditedUpdated 07/03/13;
Today, added new Garmin Edge 810, orderd Knog light set. Will make its local Texas debut Saturday.
Last edited by Rewillia; 07-03-13 at 03:40 PM. Reason: photo adds, text edits.
#9620
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Register it for warranty. You'll need it.
#9621
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Purchased, 2011 Trek Project One custom ordered Madone 6.9 SSL OCLV2 Carbon, Dura-Ace Di2 e, Ultregra CS, brakes, Bontrager RLX wheel set, RXX Stem, RXL Bar set, Ultrega Peds.
Like new ride, less than 500 miles on the clock, not ridden by PO in past 10 months. Took into my local shop, assembled, added air, no other work or parts/repairs needed. Shop, Trek dealer ran s/n on bike, MSRP for build was $8k, I paid $2k delivered. Yahoo :-)
Like new ride, less than 500 miles on the clock, not ridden by PO in past 10 months. Took into my local shop, assembled, added air, no other work or parts/repairs needed. Shop, Trek dealer ran s/n on bike, MSRP for build was $8k, I paid $2k delivered. Yahoo :-)
#9622
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#9623
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#9624
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Bikes: Raleigh Talus 29(MTB), Trek Madone 2.1(Road), Felt B16(Tri)
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Picked up my new road bike yesterday and threw a black saddle/black tape combo today. Also, purchased the Edge 510. Now, just need a dry weekend!
#9625
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I hope the pic is before you adjusted the seat; it has a rather large downward angle. That looks like a pretty long stem and stretch. Where is your head when you are on the bike? I test rode a WSD Trek that was too small and my head felt like it was too far forward. Did you try the next frame size up?