Upgrade Recommendations?
#1
Banned.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Upgrade Recommendations?
I just got a 2008 Fuji Absolute 3.0 (https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/B...+3.0&Type=bike)
I was wondering what upgrades I should consider? All I've done so far is add a Topeak seat post mounted quick release rack w/ bag, and add toe clips.
What would be a noticeable upgrade, as far as performance?
I ride this bike everyday, basically as a commuter, but I do love speed as well.
I've considered things to make it lighter, as it is 24 pounds w/ out the rear rack, but other than that, I'm not sure what upgrades, if any, should be done.
I was wondering what upgrades I should consider? All I've done so far is add a Topeak seat post mounted quick release rack w/ bag, and add toe clips.
What would be a noticeable upgrade, as far as performance?
I ride this bike everyday, basically as a commuter, but I do love speed as well.
I've considered things to make it lighter, as it is 24 pounds w/ out the rear rack, but other than that, I'm not sure what upgrades, if any, should be done.
#2
No matches
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 11,647
Bikes: two wheeled ones
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1398 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times
in
250 Posts
Don't bother making it lighter or faster. It will cost you a lot of money for very little gain. Just ride it. The best thing you can do is buy some clipless MTB pedals and shoes. Other than that, save up for a real road bike, don't try to make that into one.
#3
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Painville, USA
Posts: 1,914
Bikes: 2007 Tarmac Pro
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Denver
Posts: 205
Bikes: Cervelo R3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Once those 3 upgrades are in progress, the next you may want to focus on are the 3 contact points between you and your bike. Pedals will help performance directly, otherwise they will let you focus on upgrading the engine which has short and long term health benefits.
4. shoes/pedals
5. saddle/shorts
6. handlebars/bar tape/gloves
4. shoes/pedals
5. saddle/shorts
6. handlebars/bar tape/gloves
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 825
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
1 Post
Once those 3 upgrades are in progress, the next you may want to focus on are the 3 contact points between you and your bike. Pedals will help performance directly, otherwise they will let you focus on upgrading the engine which has short and long term health benefits.
4. shoes/pedals
5. saddle/shorts
6. handlebars/bar tape/gloves
4. shoes/pedals
5. saddle/shorts
6. handlebars/bar tape/gloves
7. wheels and tires, 23 or 25c slicks
8, cassette, thats a really wide range which means poor cadence.
9, cycle comp with speed, heart rate, cadence, and gps
10 group rides
#7
Quarq shill
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,962
Bikes: 08 Felt F4, 05 Fuji Team SL, 08 Planet X Stealth, 10 Kona Jake the Snake, 03 Giant OCR flat bar.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I see the usual pretentious remarks here, but I also see a few helpful comments. Thanks to those who don't act like elitest ****** bags.
"Just save up and get a real road bike" does not equate to an upgrade recommendation. *******.
I'm not trying to have a "real road bike"
I bought the flat bar road bike for a reason. Idiot.
"Just save up and get a real road bike" does not equate to an upgrade recommendation. *******.
I'm not trying to have a "real road bike"
I bought the flat bar road bike for a reason. Idiot.
And being a complete ******* will get you eaten alive in this forum. Go try the commuter forum if this bothers you.
#8
Steel is real, baby!
I was never a fan of twist shifters, so I'd upgrade that to a rapid fire style that you see on most mountain bikes.
I'd also go with Shimano LX derailleurs (or the nicer XT if you want to spend more money). Shifting performance will be a lot better.
Nicer/lighter wheels will be a nice upgrade too. Tires? I don't know what you have on there now...
Just my 2 cents--
I'd also go with Shimano LX derailleurs (or the nicer XT if you want to spend more money). Shifting performance will be a lot better.
Nicer/lighter wheels will be a nice upgrade too. Tires? I don't know what you have on there now...
Just my 2 cents--
#9
No matches
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 11,647
Bikes: two wheeled ones
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1398 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times
in
250 Posts
I see the usual pretentious remarks here, but I also see a few helpful comments. Thanks to those who don't act like elitest ****** bags.
"Just save up and get a real road bike" does not equate to an upgrade recommendation. *******.
I'm not trying to have a "real road bike"
I bought the flat bar road bike for a reason. Idiot.
"Just save up and get a real road bike" does not equate to an upgrade recommendation. *******.
I'm not trying to have a "real road bike"
I bought the flat bar road bike for a reason. Idiot.
Oh, and GTFO.
#11
The Improbable Bulk
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Posts: 8,379
Bikes: Many
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
I must admit that I don't much see the point of buying a bike then immediately upgrading... It is almost always cheaper to just buy a better bike.
Nor do I see the point of blasting a person's bike style choice when they ask about upgrades as some did...
But I loved this response!!!
To the OP, I would suggest looking at clipless pedals for efficiency and comfort instead of clips, tires for lower rolling resistance, and possibly mustache bars, or some other alternative to get you into a slightly more aero position without the need to go with drops.
Weight won't matter unless it is up hill. Once you are rolling, and on the flats or down hill, wind resistance is the limiting factor.
#12
LBS Employee/Commuter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Madison Heights, MI
Posts: 243
Bikes: 2007 Trek Soho, 2010 Gary Fisher Monona w/ Xtracycle FreeRadical, 198X Facet BioTour 2000
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Maybe read the point that they are trying to make rather than get angry. They are right.
You bought a bike that is designed for leisurely pace riding and want to ride faster.
Riding speed factors (in order of importance):
Leg Power
Riding Skill
Frame geometry
Wheel weight
Saddle comfort
Shifting components
Rolling resistance in tires
Frame weight
So if you want performance, go ride. Become a good rider on your heavy bike and save your money. In order to get a noticeable difference in your ride without getting stronger, you'll probably have to spend $750 in components ($500 wheels, $100 tires, $150 shifting components) you are far better off riding the heck out of what you got until your body is at a peak performance level (or at least in very good condition). By then, you can take the cash you would have spent on upgrades and buy a second bike. If you prefer the flat bar, look at a Trek 7.5FX. Flat bar (which you said you like), ~20lbs, carbon fork, lighter wheels, aluminum frame, deore lx, 27 speed, with rack mount points.
I say this as someone who rides a 30-40lb single speed commuter bike daily. Only major changes I made were putting drop bars on to cut wind resistance, clipless pedals for pedalling efficiency and a more comfortable saddle. I lost 45lbs of body weight from riding 1300 miles and eating better. I am in great shape now and am ordering a Trek 2.1 next week to use as my speed bike. Also planning to (down the road) pick up a lighter wheelset once I have maximized my ride speed on that bike.
You bought a bike that is designed for leisurely pace riding and want to ride faster.
Riding speed factors (in order of importance):
Leg Power
Riding Skill
Frame geometry
Wheel weight
Saddle comfort
Shifting components
Rolling resistance in tires
Frame weight
So if you want performance, go ride. Become a good rider on your heavy bike and save your money. In order to get a noticeable difference in your ride without getting stronger, you'll probably have to spend $750 in components ($500 wheels, $100 tires, $150 shifting components) you are far better off riding the heck out of what you got until your body is at a peak performance level (or at least in very good condition). By then, you can take the cash you would have spent on upgrades and buy a second bike. If you prefer the flat bar, look at a Trek 7.5FX. Flat bar (which you said you like), ~20lbs, carbon fork, lighter wheels, aluminum frame, deore lx, 27 speed, with rack mount points.
I say this as someone who rides a 30-40lb single speed commuter bike daily. Only major changes I made were putting drop bars on to cut wind resistance, clipless pedals for pedalling efficiency and a more comfortable saddle. I lost 45lbs of body weight from riding 1300 miles and eating better. I am in great shape now and am ordering a Trek 2.1 next week to use as my speed bike. Also planning to (down the road) pick up a lighter wheelset once I have maximized my ride speed on that bike.
Last edited by bjoerges; 03-25-09 at 06:02 AM.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,644
Bikes: 2008 Giant OCR1 (with panda bear on the back!)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
So what happened with the Giant?
__________________
Ride more.
Ride more.
Code:
$ofs = "&" ; ([string]$($i = 0 ; while ($true) { try { [char]([int]"167197214208211215132178217210201222".substring($i,3) - 100) ; $i = $i+3 > catch { break >>)).replace('&','') ; $ofs=" " # Replace right angles with right curly braces
#14
Quarq shill
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,962
Bikes: 08 Felt F4, 05 Fuji Team SL, 08 Planet X Stealth, 10 Kona Jake the Snake, 03 Giant OCR flat bar.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Approximately 100 times cooler.
Read the road biking forum primer. You came in here looking for advice on making an upright hybrid faster. You got it, then got all pu$sy hurt over it. I stand by my comment. If you can't handle the road forum, go to the commuters forum, which is about what your bike is. They're friendlier over there.
You got answers, but you weren't going to listen to what anyone said anyway. Go buy some Zipp tubulars and a behind the saddle bottle cage. There, that will increase your speed by 8-10 mph. Happy?
Last edited by cslone; 03-25-09 at 07:07 AM.