citizenerased

I picked up a used bike with a Record FD and Daytona shifters. Compared to 105 and Ultegra front shifting (one click and it's on the big ring), it takes a lot of effort to get from the small to large ring on my setup. I can go from the big ring to the small ring (older FSA crank with 52/39) fine with one swipe of the thumb, but getting from the small to the large ring takes quite an effort: at least 3 swings with the shifter and holding on the third swipe until the chain engages on the large ring. It's almost impossible to do from the drops as well because the throw is so long. Is this normal? I don't have many shops with Campy set ups so I don't have a comparison on how quick it should be for small to big. Any ideas like the front shifter was originally for a triple?

Don't know if this would be more suited for the mechanics forum, but I was just wondering if front shifting should be this difficult with the Daytona/Centaur shifter?

Erzulis Boat 

On the Campy, the FD has mutiple indexed positions, and my Record setups do have quite a bit of lever (on the brake/shifter) travel. That being said, you might be trying to take too much at once.

You need to keep the FD "centered" on the chain. If the chain is running 53-26 (example) the FD is backed all the way down to the bottom stop. Kick the chain down to 14 on the rear let's say, and the FD will be rubbing on the right side of the cage, you then click the FD up one little notch, and get the chain centered through the FD. You can do this from memory, listening, or just glancing down real quick.

In a nutshell, you keep the FD position optimized to the gear. No rubbing, sometimes it doesn't rub sitting down, but give it the gas, and you get the rub, simply try to keep the clearance. This will also get you one step closer to the small/big upshift.

I have pretty big hands, so I cannot address the drop travel issue, but I have never experienced a problem.

azdroptop

Sounds like an adjustment issue.

DScott

Going up is always a deliberate effort, even with all Record stuff. It sometimes takes at least two swipes at the lever for me too, but that's usually when I'm not assertive enough with the shift.

Other than getting the FD limit screws set up correctly, one thing that may be making a difference is the FSA crank. The Campy chainrings work really well at picking up the chain and getting it onto the larger chainring. I can move the chain very aggressively and make the shift quickly without much hesitation and under load. Maybe the FSA isn't quite as good at that.

Grasschopper

I agree...my Record and Centaur (Daytona renamed to Centaur) setups shift with one lever throw. Check your limits and cable tension.

genejockey 

+1. My 2006 Chorus and Veloce bikes both shift in three clicks - one throw.

DaveSSS 

You guys need a lesson in Campy. The left finger lever can execute 5 clicks with one sweep, but only 3-4 are ever needed to operate a double FD (QS FDs need 4). If more are needed, the cable is just loose and the other clicks are not moving the FD as they should. If setup properly, the first click of the finger lever causes the FD to move off of the little ring limit screw. The finger lever probably does require more force to operate than a Shimano brake/shift lever. Too much force can be caused by improper attachment of the shift cable on the arm of the FD.

Any Campy shifter will operate a double of triple. Excluding the '07-'08 escape mechanism and '09 ultrashift models, all others I've owned had 12 clicks available from the left finger lever. Only 7 are used to operate a triple FD. The 5-click sweep of the finger lever is only used when shifting from the little ring of a triple, to the middle ring (followed by 1-2 clicks of the thumb button to recenter the cage). I used Campy levers with FSA triples for several years and never had any shifting problems.

citizenerased

Thanks all. That's what I figured. When I first had it set up it was working pretty much with 2 sweeps but not so much now. And since I didn't know if my starting point was what to expect with Campy shifting, didn't know if it was a good reference.

Thanks, I kind of figured the trim out on my own after just a couple of rides, but I've made some adjustments that need to be fixed now.

rdtompki

I'll have to think about this thread a bit more. I've got a tandem with Campy Chorus (QS Micron?) brifters and a quad chainring (30-24-18-12). I don't have a good feel for it yet all the more challenging because I've got to look between my legs to see the chainrings. I can see I've got to spend some time on the tandem alone and count clicks. I'll also check the cable tension.

DaveSSS 

A 30/24/18/12 chainring? Show me a picture of that.

With regard to Campy shifters, QS only reduces some dead travel in the left finger lever and has no effect on the number of clicks or the cable travel. It just reduces the angular movement for that 5-click maximum sweep.

cuski

Quite the opposite, in my experience. Takes very little force for 10s and 11s when compared to my Ultegra.

rdtompki

The 30-24-18-12 is on a daVinci tandem intermediate shaft. There is an additional "gain" of 2 between the captain and stoker timing chains and this shaft. Therefore, I have, effectively, 60-48-36-24. Again, if this were on a single I'd be able to "learn" the shifting much faster because the chainrings would be easier to see. You don't want to spend too much time on a busy road looking down between your legs! I do like the Campy setup, however. The RD (9 spd) shifts just fine.

celticfrost

Sounds like the OP's FD needs an adjustment.

I've got 4 Campa groups ranging from years '02 to '08 and from Veloce to Record. To get to the big ring, I just push the left lever in w/ my middle finger. I don't have to count all these clicks mentioned (sounds like the last I'd want to do while hammering along).

citizenerased

I'm pretty sure I've got it now, I noticed that I could get from the small ring to the large ring with a lot of force and throws of the lever, but not back down to the small ring afterward. My FD cable was loose on the downtube, but taught from the cable routing to the FD, keeping it from moving in and dropping the chain down.

Cleaned and lubed the cable routing underneath the bottom bracket and it's a whole new experience I can shift up while in the drops without contorting my wrist and from the hoods it's almost effortless It was definitely helpful knowing what I should be aiming for on how FD shifting should feel