nauboone

Has anyone heard of a road bike that:

1. Has 135 mm rear dropouts.
2. Accepts 700C wheels.
3. Accepts dual-pivot caliper brakes.

I'm wondering because I'd like a bike that's reasonably light and fast, but also has a really strong rear wheel so I can also use it for loaded touring. The 135 mm dropouts would enable me to use mountain hub, which I've heard are generally sturdier than road hubs, and they result in less rear wheel dish due to the larger spacing.

Thanks.

Black Shuck

Some Audax frames, like the Thorn Mk3 have 132.5 dropout width to fit both road and mtb hubs, many touring frames too but they might both be on the heavy side. I think steel road frames like the Salsa Casseroll could probably be spread/cold set to 135 too.

fatallightning

Surly long haul trucker.

sstorkel

Some Surly frames, like the Cross Check and Travelers Check, are built with 132.5mm rear spacing. Many of Soma's cyclocross and touring frames feature 132.5 or 135mm spacing, too.

AEO

disc brake capable frames have 135mm drop outs for the rear. well at least a vast majority of them do.

but the question is, why are you limiting yourself to dual pivot calipers?

tektro long reach can fit 32mm, but the ones from shimano and campy can fit 28mm tires at most. if you're touring you'll want that nice fat tire.

Velo Dog

Some of Rivendell's off-the-rack bikes do. My Atlantis for sure, and I think the Rambouillet, too. Not sure about the newer models. www.rivbike.com.

If your frame is steel, you can spread the 130mm dropouts to accept a 135 hub, either by cold-settling or just jamming it in there. I wouldn't do it with aluminum or carbon.

merlinextraligh

You've got a bit of a contradiction here. A lot of the bikes designed for loaded touring, such as the Surly Long Haul trucker are going to use cantilever brakes because of tire clearence.

You're pretty much limiting yourself to 28mm tires if you go with caliper brakes. If you only need 28mm tires that's fine. However, if you only need 28mm tires, then you really don't need wheels built with 135 mm spacing.

So if you want to do loaded touring with robust wheels and tires, you're better off with cantilever or disk brakes.

AEO

if you're in the opinion that cantis suck and are hard to setup, well there's the tektro CR-720 canti, which are really good, not that much harder than setting up V-brakes.

failing that you can use V-drop levers with V-brakes, or aero levers, problem solvers travel agents with V-brakes.

merlinextraligh

One other thing, take a look in the touring forum. You'll find more loaded touring knowledge there.

Banzai

They don't suck...they're only moderately hard to set up...but lordy, if you want to preserve your hearing then cantis are not the way to go!

I've had mine set up perfectly, and they still screamed like banshees. At least the front.

AEO

use a brake booster if your fork is flimsy.
don't use avid shorty screamer cantis
don't mix CR-720 with koolstop salmon
do toe in pads with canti

mine do not squeal at all by following the above guidelines.

Banzai

That could have been my problem then. Even with proper toe in, etc...ear piercing.

BigBlueToe

Co-Motion?