gtmandsager

So I pulled the trigger on a pair of carbon tubulars, bought two Vittoria EVO-CX to go with (21mm front, 23mm rear) and some Vittoria Mastik glue. I read a number of threaeds here, cdm's always useful blog, and ultimately decided to follow the instructions here: https://www.engr.ku.edu/~kuktl/bicycle/Cusa1.pdf. I stretched each tire for a day at 100+ psi, put the initial coats of glue on the wheels (2 coats) and the tire (1 coat), and allowed 24 hours for each coat to dry. Then I tried to glue the rear tire, following the instructions by applying a final coat of glue to the wheel, and then mounting the tire. Unfortunately, it seemed like some of the glue dried enough before I mounted the tire (only a few minutes max), and the bond didn't seem that great. Notably, when I pulled the tire away from the rim I couldn't see a lot of those tiny glue strands that I've seen pictures of. So I pulled the tire off, and decided that for the front, I would apply the final coat of glue to the tire, and then mount. That went much better, though it was difficult getting the last bit of tire on, so there now is some glue on the braking surface. Because this is my first time gluing, and I intend to race on these wheels, how can I make sure that the bond is strong enough to not roll off in a corner?

Also, any suggestions on how to take dried glue off a carbon rim would be greatly appreciated. I sent an email to the manufacturer to get their recommendations re solvents.

jfmckenna

I use a sharp chisel to remove the glue on breaking surface, bear in mind I am quite good with a chisel. If it's still soft you can usually just roll it into little glue balls to remove. I find that the cotton tape on a new tire soaks up a lot of glue, one coat was probably not enough. And you may be applying it too thin. It really helps to apply with a brush. Plumbers flux brushes work very well and can be cleaned in a Goof Off solvent and reused. The key to a successful and save glue up is to make sure you glue the edges very well. If you don't see the stringy glue as you mentioned then it's not safe.

Grumpy McTrumpy

I'd be afraid to use a chisel. I can shave with mine. butter knife is my weapon of choice for glue

Grumpy McTrumpy

acetone is safe on carbon

lotek 

I don't allow my glue to dry for 24 hours after applying it to the rim and tire before final coat
and mounting. I wait until the glue is just beyond tacky to the touch and then add final
coat and mount the tires.

Marty

jfmckenna

Marty on a new rim it might be nice to have a glue layer down good and dry though.

You know how it is... it's voodoo and every one has there own formula

Important thing is that you see that it is glued down right.

I was a lead car for a collegiate race a few months ago and a guy flatted so I took his wheel. At the end I inspected it and I was SHOCKED taht any one could have honestly thought it was glued properly. It just came right off and the cotton tape was dry

Socalcycling

Tape

not2blu

Tubulars are for racers.
Are all of you racers?

Nothing like dropping a Fred riding tubulars with a folded tire in his jersey pocket.

Grumpy McTrumpy

I switched from tape to glue. I like glue better.

Grumpy McTrumpy

did you dial it up to 400w?

jfmckenna

I wouldn't dream of putting clinchers on my '83 Guerciotti.

wfrogge

We are all racers.. thanks for asking

lotek 

I think I sold my last pair of clincher rims, oh when were Campagnolo Omnicrom rims available? the 80's?
Like another poster, I wouldn't think of putting clinchers on my Pogliaghi Pista (and no I don't ride it
on the street).

kaNUK

Yes. And no...

A little background: A club member rolled his improperly glued tubular and flat spotted the edge of his Carbon Cosmic rim. He somehow got wind of my past career in composite repair and had me fix the damage. He dropped off the wheel with the tubular still partly glued on. This made me a little grumpy () as I was hoping to get a clean rim to fix. I asked him what he used to get the glue off on this rim. His reply: Acetone ...except he'd (thankfully) never done that to this wheel.

The Carbon Cosmic has a FOAM CORE ...which will be quickly and completely dissolved by acetone! The damage was showing a thin sliver of foam where the tire bed meets the sidewall. Acetone was out. I used tedious mechanical means to remove the glue. I also told him to not use Acetone in the future, as the spoke holes also expose the foam core. A slightly dampened cloth might work, but it's not a risk I'd take.

Cliffs Notes: Cured carbon layup is safe for acetone. If the rim has a foam core do NOT use acetone if there is even the slightest chance of it getting in contact with the core.

Cheers
kaNUK

rc32

Acetone or Goo-Gone for removing the stray glue on the braking surface.

gtmandsager

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions. kaNUK, would acetone on a q-tip, used to remove glue from the braking surface, still threaten the foam core?

Grumpy McTrumpy

A q-tip won't be enough acetone to make a difference (and it evaporates very quickly). Acetone just loosens the glue a bit. You need to use a rag with acetone on it and a lot of elbow grease to get dried glue off.

brianappleby

you know what's really good for removing glue from a braking surface? Brakes.

Psyclismo

I use goo-gone, and a lot of ventilation!!!, to remove any glue off of the braking surface of my rims. I don't soak the rag, just dampen it, and rub. Try to keep it away from your base tape or let any get between the rim and tire.

kaNUK

Grumpy is right. A q-tip with acetone won't hurt a thing. Once the tire is glued on and all spoke holes are sealed you could use a significant larger application of acetone without harm. For all we know your rim may not even have a foam core ...in which case you can make like many people and ignore my advice.

kaNUK

cranky old road 

Gasoline

rc32

Are you referring to Goof-Off??? Goo-Gone is actually quite milder compared to Goof-Off...that's why I mentioned it. Goo Gone is actually citrus based so it doesn't even smell bad. Goof Off on the other hand, is downright nasty and you need lots of ventilation, gloves,etc. Zipp recommends Goof Off for glue removal on their carbon rims and it is what I use for removing glue from the rim bed of my tubular wheels. For removing stray glue from the sidewalls though, Goo Gone is quite effective and not as overpowering as Goof Off.

Grumpy McTrumpy

Goof Off is Xylene

Psyclismo

Yep.. you're right.. My bad! I'm talking about the overpriced xylene in a snazzy yellow can that gives me a migraine in 3 seconds flat.

jcapodieci

40 years ago I discoverd that the glue is only part of the tire mounting process. The high pressure also keeps the tire well seated. I tried using 85 to 90 pounds since the roads around here aren't so smooth. This let the tire slip a little when breaking. They really need the high preasure to stay well seated, especially when it's so hot around here. When you consider the delicate nature of clincher rim edges and the difficulty of removing clincher tires, the once per year gluing and low price of the rims for tubulars, this is a really cheap way to get some good performance.
Jerry
Woodland Hills CA.