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Recabled/rewrapped the steed - Part 2 and BDop Cycling Sooper Deluxe Review

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Recabled/rewrapped the steed - Part 2 and BDop Cycling Sooper Deluxe Review

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Old 12-18-09, 08:49 PM
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Recabled/rewrapped the steed - Part 2 and BDop Cycling Sooper Deluxe Review

Just an update to a thread I started a while back after I was so tickled with myself at the bar wrap and cable job I did

Several posters correctly noticed I left the shifter cable housings too long as evidenced in this before pic:



After doing some reading I decided to cross the cables under the downtube. This allowed me to swap the housings as is and made them, what I think, is a perfect length. I also trimmed the brake housing after removing some headset spacers as there was a bit of pressure on the caliper from the too long housing. I like them just a TAD long so there's a bit of pressure holding the ferrules in the bosses on the frame. Here ya go, I think they look a ton better:



Also, here's a pic of the cockpit from the user side (in night riding setup with Fenix flashlight):



So, what is the mount for the flashlight? A BDop Cycling Sooper Deluxe computer mount. The flashlight is mounted with the DealExtreme Universal Bicycle Mount. The flashlight is pretty heavy and flimsy mounts really designed for computers allow it to bounce on rough road. Even the fancy FSA computer mount sucked big time. 40 miles in the dark with a bouncing light gives me a headache Since I'm a stickler for symmetry too I decided to get the Sooper Delux with the two mount arms and trim the tube to only the width necessary, which is what you see here. I was warned by Bob that the standard Dashboard Genie with the single arm would be plenty strong and stable enough, and it certainly is. The way I have it now I can literally lift the bike off the ground by the mount. It's that strong. I believe you could mount 6 of these flashlights to it and it wouldn't be fazed. Here's some closer up pics:





I'm very happy with the mount...more than happy. Absolutely zero, nada, zilch bounce when hitting danged near anything. And, I was quoted 5-7 business day shipping from Taiwan and sure enough, it arrived on the 6th business day. I'd heartily recommend one if you're looking for a strong mount.

I forgot to weigh before install but there's not a lot to it...I have a tad of maintenance to do yet and will have the opportunity to take them off and I'll get a real weight. Bob doesn't quote one but maybe he'll chime in. I may even go to one arm and sacrifice my love of symmetry for my weight weenie leanings. The best part is I'll have another Dashboard Genie from the leftover parts

If you have any questions about the mount let me know. I'm not a shill if I paid for, own, and use the product right?
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Old 12-18-09, 08:53 PM
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THAT is a light bracket.
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Old 12-18-09, 08:54 PM
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Nice job on the tape too
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Old 12-18-09, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RichinPeoria
THAT is a light bracket.
Seriously, I hung the bike from it...

Originally Posted by RichinPeoria
Nice job on the tape too
Thanks!!
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Old 12-18-09, 09:07 PM
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I like it !!!!
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Old 12-18-09, 09:24 PM
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good work, i like the idea of mounting the light along the bike's centerline.
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Old 12-18-09, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by AngryScientist
good work, i like the idea of mounting the light along the bike's centerline.
Yeah, and it nestles right in the cross of the shifter cables, it works pretty well.

Besides, that makes it symmetrical
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Old 12-18-09, 09:33 PM
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Nice job, looks clean. I think I'm going to cross cable my bike tonight.
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Old 12-18-09, 11:00 PM
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1) Those barrel adjusters shouldn't be that far out
2) Real mechanics use electrical tape to finish the bars - not the crappy stuff that comes with the tape.
3) There should be a 5mm spacer under the topcap so that the stem is 100% clamped around the steerer. Especially if it's carbon.
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Old 12-18-09, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by operator
1) Those barrel adjusters shouldn't be that far out.
They're in as far as they go, that's the way Ritchey designed them:



Originally Posted by operator
2) Real mechanics use electrical tape to finish the bars - not the crappy stuff that comes with the tape.
Since I'm a network administrator and not a "real mechanic" the Earth will continue to revolve around the sun.

Originally Posted by operator
3) There should be a 5mm spacer under the topcap so that the stem is 100% clamped around the steerer. Especially if it's carbon.
Let's no go through this again, this is how Cannondale specs it, the steerer is supported by the extended top cap: https://www.cannondale.com/asset/iu_f...uctions_en.pdf

"Cutting the Steerer
• Assemble the fork into the installed head set to establish stem height.
• The MAXIMUM SPACER STACK HEIGHT IS 40 MM.
Measure this height from the top of the frame headtube to the bottom of the stem. Do not exceed this height. Exceeding this height will place excessive stress on the steerer tube with risk of fork failure.
Do not use spacers between the stem and top cap."

Last edited by khatfull; 12-19-09 at 12:53 AM. Reason: Typo...
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Old 12-18-09, 11:57 PM
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I think he meant they shouldn't be turned that far out. Meaning you should tighten the cables on the derailleurs because the barrel adjusters are at their limit
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Old 12-19-09, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by operator
1) Those barrel adjusters shouldn't be that far out
2) Real mechanics use electrical tape to finish the bars - not the crappy stuff that comes with the tape.
3) There should be a 5mm spacer under the topcap so that the stem is 100% clamped around the steerer. Especially if it's carbon.

whats with the avatar pic?
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Old 12-19-09, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jynx
whats with the avatar pic?
I just noticed that...there can be only one botto...
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Old 12-19-09, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Tristan86
I think he meant they shouldn't be turned that far out. Meaning you should tighten the cables on the derailleurs because the barrel adjusters are at their limit
They're actually at the middle of their travel, which is how I set them so there would be adjustment in buth directions if necessary.

Last edited by khatfull; 12-19-09 at 02:59 AM. Reason: Tipo...
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Old 12-19-09, 12:40 AM
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I've got to say you've got it all together here. A well thought out post, with quality photo's for illustration. The tape looks great and that is one heck of a light mount. BF fights back with of all things a botto impersonater and you squash him with Cannondale manuals, photos and common sense application. You've probably got a beautiful wife as well. I hate you.
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Old 12-19-09, 02:28 AM
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I love it. Nice work on the cables. What is the advantage of crossing the cables below the downtube? Is there a real advantage?
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Old 12-19-09, 02:45 AM
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The re-cabling is spot on IMO. I also like that light bracket. BTW, Ignore Operator. He is a bit washed up. Hopefully he recovers.
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Old 12-19-09, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by FreddyV
I love it. Nice work on the cables. What is the advantage of crossing the cables below the downtube? Is there a real advantage?
Thanks! The downtube cross allows a longer, smoother bend in the housing. I have to double check the clearance between the cables and the downtube to be sure there's no rubbing.

Originally Posted by plasticmaam12
The re-cabling is spot on IMO. I also like that light bracket. BTW, Ignore Operator. He is a bit washed up. Hopefully he recovers.
Thanks! Oh, I had planned on ignoring him, especially given he copied botto's avatar
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Old 12-19-09, 03:05 AM
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You did a great job trimming down that mount. The whole thing looks pretty squared away.

I'm glad you're happy with the product.

Now go ride your bike!
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Old 12-19-09, 09:24 AM
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Not to hijack this thread but I have purchased two items from Bob and I too have got the item in about a week. It is amazing how fast an item can come across the world and how long it takes to get one from across the country. Both items were great, along with a great price.
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Old 12-19-09, 10:16 AM
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Wow, I did not even realize that it was not botto, and was wondering why he would make such amateur statements.
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Old 12-19-09, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by operator
blah blah blah.
Really crappy and childish steeling someone's avatar......
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Old 12-19-09, 10:37 AM
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Can you take a picture of the routing as it goes down under the BB? i'm curious how they cross at the bottom. i like the idea of being less messy in front

Originally Posted by khatfull
Thanks! The downtube cross allows a longer, smoother bend in the housing. I have to double check the clearance between the cables and the downtube to be sure there's no rubbing
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Old 12-19-09, 10:39 AM
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Nice job BTW Khatfull!!
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Old 12-19-09, 10:48 AM
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Cable routing

Does the plastic cable routing thingy under your BB allow for crossing the cables like you did? I've seen some that do and some that don't.

Does your crossed cables bare cables rub anywhere under your downtube? You might want to keep an eye on that during the riding season.

Have you ridden your bike (and shifted gears) with the cables like that? If the cables are too short or bend too weird then you might get some chain skipping on the RD and (possibly the FD depending on if you have a brifter that has some trim setting i.e. Ultegra's. Edit: I noticed you have 105's - do they have FD trim?)

Visually, it looks great except 1) I'm not crazy about the flashlight and 2) I think I'd have extended the bar tape in closer to the stem a little. Makes for more places to put your hands, which you might appreciate more on a long ride. 3) I don't see a need for a barrel adjuster at the brifter for the RD - there's already one on your RD.

Last edited by Bontrager; 12-19-09 at 10:54 AM.
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