9 tooth cog ? 60 tooth chainring ? no not at the same time.
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9 tooth cog ? 60 tooth chainring ? no not at the same time.
ok i thought 53-11 was as far as it goes. i have 53-12 now and wanted to upgrade to 53-11 eventually.
but now i start hearing about 56, 60 ? and 9 ! ! !
hm ... i don't know if i could fit a 56 without some kind of chain rub ? and it would only give me 5% extra gearing.
but to go from 11 to 9 that's almost a 20% difference ! so just where is one supposed to get a cassette that goes to 9 ?
i don't know how much extra i need. i know i need some when the wind is blowing in the right direction. maybe 11 would be enough for me ... or maybe not. i would like to know what the options are ?
but now i start hearing about 56, 60 ? and 9 ! ! !
hm ... i don't know if i could fit a 56 without some kind of chain rub ? and it would only give me 5% extra gearing.
but to go from 11 to 9 that's almost a 20% difference ! so just where is one supposed to get a cassette that goes to 9 ?
i don't know how much extra i need. i know i need some when the wind is blowing in the right direction. maybe 11 would be enough for me ... or maybe not. i would like to know what the options are ?
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What's your cadence in the 53-12 ?
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Contrary to popular belief, Bigger TT rings (>53T) are not used to gain extra gearing, but to move the chain up the cassette so there is less of a jump between gears. The jump between a 11 and 12 is much greater than 14 and 15
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an 11 is more than enough for you.
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Have you ever driven a standard shift car ? If so, do you drive around town at 30 mph while in 5th gear ?
Learn to ride at a more efficient cadence and you will go faster & your knees will be happier in the long run.
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i understand. but would it fit ? my bike came with 53/39 chainring ... i wonder what i could replace that 53 with ?
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so are you saying that its easier to change muscle fibers than chainrings ?
and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.
my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.
my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
Last edited by NEUROSPORT; 04-05-10 at 05:14 AM.
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so are you saying that its easier to change muscle fibers than chainrings ?
and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.
my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.
my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
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Knowledge & experience
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#13
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so are you saying that its easier to change muscle fibers than chainrings ?
and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.
my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.
my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
For lack of a better term your 53X12 is your sprint gear. If you're turning it at 50rpm you ain't sprinting.
Take it from experience here (I spent many years in weight rooms) the correlation between turning gears on a bike and dead-lifting is zero.
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looks like i could get 55/42 Dura Ace in place of my 53/39 but frankly $150 is too much for 3.7% difference
guess i'll stick with 53 for now ...
i do wonder though - if i kept the rear cassette same size would i need a longer chain with 55 ?
is there a way to make a chain longer without buying a new chain ?
guess i'll stick with 53 for now ...
i do wonder though - if i kept the rear cassette same size would i need a longer chain with 55 ?
is there a way to make a chain longer without buying a new chain ?
Last edited by NEUROSPORT; 04-05-10 at 06:00 AM.
#15
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Good idea.
Start doing this on a regular basis, then we'll buy you that 55T ring.
Start doing this on a regular basis, then we'll buy you that 55T ring.
Originally Posted by gsteinb
Cadence at 41 mph in a 53 x 11 is 103 rpm.
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so are you saying that its easier to change muscle fibers than chainrings ?
and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.
my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.
my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
There's no options for taller gearing because when you're doing it right you don't need it.
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I have an 11t cog in the back. I went to clean my cassette the other day and didn't have any gunk on that at all. Of course, saying I've got a 53x11 sounds cool, so I've got that going for me.
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The 9 cogs are for getting a decent gearing with small wheels (16"), not for 700s.
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I did the math, I could drop you with 48x12 (top on my long distance bike) because I can spin faster. so just start spinning faster.
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This guy has been trolling the general cycling forum for a while now, it looks like he has moved on to fresh targets who don't know his shtick. I suggest you guys ignore him. Move along, nothing to see here...
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(Bolding added)
i have my own philosophy when it comes to fitness and to me longer is not better. i actually feel guilty when i ride more than 30 minutes because in my philosophy that is counter productive, but i enjoy riding so i usually ride for about 45 minutes. ideally i would ride for about 20 minutes at maximum speed and then go home but i don't have the discipline to do this.
now since i am always within walking distance of my car it makes more sense to me to walk back, take the bike to the shop and have them change the tube rather than doing it myself.
also is the seat bag the most aerodynamic option? i was thinking if i wrap some electrical tape around the flip flops they would be flat as an envelope then i can put them in a draw string back bag and wear it under a jersey - that way i would barely be adding any drag. what are some of the more aerodynamic seat bags?
hm ... how often do you actually get flats ? i never had one before ( aside from that time when i broke the whole wheel ) so i don't see the point of learning how to change it.
now since i am always within walking distance of my car it makes more sense to me to walk back, take the bike to the shop and have them change the tube rather than doing it myself.
also is the seat bag the most aerodynamic option? i was thinking if i wrap some electrical tape around the flip flops they would be flat as an envelope then i can put them in a draw string back bag and wear it under a jersey - that way i would barely be adding any drag. what are some of the more aerodynamic seat bags?
hm ... how often do you actually get flats ? i never had one before ( aside from that time when i broke the whole wheel ) so i don't see the point of learning how to change it.
my speed may not be high but the force i apply to my pedals is high.
when briefly passing somebody i will almost certainly put down more force on the pedals than even TDF pros simply because i weigh much more and my muscle is mostly fast twitch. so i don't see why i should settle for an inferior shoe or pedal.
when briefly passing somebody i will almost certainly put down more force on the pedals than even TDF pros simply because i weigh much more and my muscle is mostly fast twitch. so i don't see why i should settle for an inferior shoe or pedal.
i started experiencing serious problems with joints when i was a bodybuilder. in particular my elbows. i didn't start to experience knee pain until i returned to biking last year. but i know this is no laughing matter and i am willing to change my riding style if that's what my joints need. i first heard that riding with this type of gearing is bad for my knees a few weeks ago when i was trying to explain to the salesman in the bike shop what type of bike i am looking for. it's slowly sinking into my brain. the forces even in the last gear are still quite low compared to the forces involved in powerlifting so i didn't think it was a problem. i thought my knee pain was more a result of too much repetition like carpal tunnel or something, rather than too much force.
if there is strong consensus that high cadence is easier on the knees i will work on that.
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 04-05-10 at 09:37 AM.
#22
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Oy Vay.
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Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT
my speed may not be high but the force i apply to my pedals is high.
when briefly passing somebody i will almost certainly put down more force on the pedals than even TDF pros simply because i weigh much more and my muscle is mostly fast twitch. so i don't see why i should settle for an inferior shoe or pedal.
my speed may not be high but the force i apply to my pedals is high.
when briefly passing somebody i will almost certainly put down more force on the pedals than even TDF pros simply because i weigh much more and my muscle is mostly fast twitch. so i don't see why i should settle for an inferior shoe or pedal.
Look! The pros can't believe it! They are looking to see what gearing he has!