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9 tooth cog ? 60 tooth chainring ? no not at the same time.

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9 tooth cog ? 60 tooth chainring ? no not at the same time.

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Old 04-05-10, 04:40 AM
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9 tooth cog ? 60 tooth chainring ? no not at the same time.

ok i thought 53-11 was as far as it goes. i have 53-12 now and wanted to upgrade to 53-11 eventually.

but now i start hearing about 56, 60 ? and 9 ! ! !

hm ... i don't know if i could fit a 56 without some kind of chain rub ? and it would only give me 5% extra gearing.

but to go from 11 to 9 that's almost a 20% difference ! so just where is one supposed to get a cassette that goes to 9 ?

i don't know how much extra i need. i know i need some when the wind is blowing in the right direction. maybe 11 would be enough for me ... or maybe not. i would like to know what the options are ?
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Old 04-05-10, 04:45 AM
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What's your cadence in the 53-12 ?
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Old 04-05-10, 04:48 AM
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Cadence at 41 mph in a 53 x 11 is 103 rpm.
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Old 04-05-10, 04:55 AM
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Contrary to popular belief, Bigger TT rings (>53T) are not used to gain extra gearing, but to move the chain up the cassette so there is less of a jump between gears. The jump between a 11 and 12 is much greater than 14 and 15
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Old 04-05-10, 04:56 AM
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an 11 is more than enough for you.
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Old 04-05-10, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01
What's your cadence in the 53-12 ?
probably around 50 ...

if there is a short hill i go up to about 80 to climb it but i seem to develop the most power continuously at about 50 ...
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Old 04-05-10, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT
probably around 50 ...

if there is a short hill i go up to about 80 to climb it but i seem to develop the most power continuously at about 50 ...
There's the problem.

Have you ever driven a standard shift car ? If so, do you drive around town at 30 mph while in 5th gear ?
Learn to ride at a more efficient cadence and you will go faster & your knees will be happier in the long run.
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Old 04-05-10, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by nitropowered
Contrary to popular belief, Bigger TT rings (>53T) are not used to gain extra gearing, but to move the chain up the cassette so there is less of a jump between gears. The jump between a 11 and 12 is much greater than 14 and 15
i understand. but would it fit ? my bike came with 53/39 chainring ... i wonder what i could replace that 53 with ?
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Old 04-05-10, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01
There's the problem.
so are you saying that its easier to change muscle fibers than chainrings ?

and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.

my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.

Last edited by NEUROSPORT; 04-05-10 at 05:14 AM.
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Old 04-05-10, 05:18 AM
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huh?
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Old 04-05-10, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT
so are you saying that its easier to change muscle fibers than chainrings ?

and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.

my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
Ummm .... How does pedaling faster develop slow twitch fibers ?
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Old 04-05-10, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT
i understand. but would it fit ? my bike came with 53/39 chainring ... i wonder what i could replace that 53 with ?
Knowledge & experience
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Old 04-05-10, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT
so are you saying that its easier to change muscle fibers than chainrings ?

and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.

my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
Originally Posted by gsteinb
huh?
Huh? X2

For lack of a better term your 53X12 is your sprint gear. If you're turning it at 50rpm you ain't sprinting.

Take it from experience here (I spent many years in weight rooms) the correlation between turning gears on a bike and dead-lifting is zero.
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Old 04-05-10, 05:57 AM
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looks like i could get 55/42 Dura Ace in place of my 53/39 but frankly $150 is too much for 3.7% difference

guess i'll stick with 53 for now ...

i do wonder though - if i kept the rear cassette same size would i need a longer chain with 55 ?

is there a way to make a chain longer without buying a new chain ?

Last edited by NEUROSPORT; 04-05-10 at 06:00 AM.
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Old 04-05-10, 06:00 AM
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Good idea.

Start doing this on a regular basis, then we'll buy you that 55T ring.

Originally Posted by gsteinb
Cadence at 41 mph in a 53 x 11 is 103 rpm.
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Old 04-05-10, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT
so are you saying that its easier to change muscle fibers than chainrings ?

and even if it is - i ain't gonna do it cuz i still need my fast twitch fibers when i deadlift in the gym.

my speed is ultimately capped by my cardio so if i moved towards slow twitch fibers i wouldn't get any faster but i would get much weaker at the gym - seems pointless.
What you are doing is the equivalent of the newbie weightlifter who does squats with bad form. No one who is actually fast rides around at 50 rpm, not even track sprinters who spend much of their training in the weight room and really do have fast twitch muscles. In fact those guys usually have the best spin on the bike. Horsepower is rpm x torque.

There's no options for taller gearing because when you're doing it right you don't need it.
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Old 04-05-10, 07:49 AM
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I have an 11t cog in the back. I went to clean my cassette the other day and didn't have any gunk on that at all. Of course, saying I've got a 53x11 sounds cool, so I've got that going for me.
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Old 04-05-10, 07:53 AM
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The 9 cogs are for getting a decent gearing with small wheels (16"), not for 700s.
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Old 04-05-10, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Reynolds
The 9 cogs are for getting a decent gearing with small wheels (16"), not for 700s.
true. also, OP, there's people that are way faster than you or me that aren't held back at all with 53x12. it's not about the gearing.

I did the math, I could drop you with 48x12 (top on my long distance bike) because I can spin faster. so just start spinning faster.
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Old 04-05-10, 08:47 AM
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This guy has been trolling the general cycling forum for a while now, it looks like he has moved on to fresh targets who don't know his shtick. I suggest you guys ignore him. Move along, nothing to see here...
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Old 04-05-10, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by umd
This guy has been trolling the general cycling forum for a while now, it looks like he has moved on to fresh targets who don't know his shtick. I suggest you guys ignore him. Move along, nothing to see here...
How can you blurt out such things about a fine member of our cycling community ? Just because you didn't learn anything ..........

(Bolding added)

Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT
i have my own philosophy when it comes to fitness and to me longer is not better. i actually feel guilty when i ride more than 30 minutes because in my philosophy that is counter productive, but i enjoy riding so i usually ride for about 45 minutes. ideally i would ride for about 20 minutes at maximum speed and then go home but i don't have the discipline to do this.

now since i am always within walking distance of my car it makes more sense to me to walk back, take the bike to the shop and have them change the tube rather than doing it myself.
also is the seat bag the most aerodynamic option? i was thinking if i wrap some electrical tape around the flip flops they would be flat as an envelope then i can put them in a draw string back bag and wear it under a jersey - that way i would barely be adding any drag. what are some of the more aerodynamic seat bags?

hm ... how often do you actually get flats ? i never had one before ( aside from that time when i broke the whole wheel ) so i don't see the point of learning how to change it.

Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT
my speed may not be high but the force i apply to my pedals is high.
when briefly passing somebody i will almost certainly put down more force on the pedals than even TDF pros simply because i weigh much more and my muscle is mostly fast twitch. so i don't see why i should settle for an inferior shoe or pedal.

Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT

i started experiencing serious problems with joints when i was a bodybuilder. in particular my elbows. i didn't start to experience knee pain until i returned to biking last year. but i know this is no laughing matter and i am willing to change my riding style if that's what my joints need. i first heard that riding with this type of gearing is bad for my knees a few weeks ago when i was trying to explain to the salesman in the bike shop what type of bike i am looking for. it's slowly sinking into my brain. the forces even in the last gear are still quite low compared to the forces involved in powerlifting so i didn't think it was a problem. i thought my knee pain was more a result of too much repetition like carpal tunnel or something, rather than too much force.

if there is strong consensus that high cadence is easier on the knees i will work on that.
very slowly it seems
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 04-05-10 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 04-05-10, 09:44 AM
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Oy Vay.
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Old 04-05-10, 09:55 AM
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I want pics.
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Old 04-05-10, 10:16 AM
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el oh el
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Old 04-05-10, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by NEUROSPORT
my speed may not be high but the force i apply to my pedals is high.
when briefly passing somebody i will almost certainly put down more force on the pedals than even TDF pros simply because i weigh much more and my muscle is mostly fast twitch. so i don't see why i should settle for an inferior shoe or pedal.




Look! The pros can't believe it! They are looking to see what gearing he has!
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