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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

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Old 05-20-10, 09:59 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by sabazel View Post
I'm going to stick with my ride for the rest of the season, he's done a good job for me thus far and I have no complaints.
hmmmm...I always figured my bike for a "she".
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Old 05-20-10, 10:12 PM   #27
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Upgrading/downweihting is good if it makes you want to ride/train more. Take 20 a pound bike down to 17, rider is 150 lbs you can say the difference is less than 2%, not much difference, although it could help in a race with climbs, but mostly if the rider likes it and rides more, because the difference in weight (and cost investment) makes him/her feel like riding more, or cranking out more watts, he/she will become faster.
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Old 05-20-10, 11:07 PM   #28
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105 RD and brakes, carbon stays/fork/seatpost, tiagra everywhere else for $695? I wish
No, but for real - I got my Giant Defy 3 last year for $695 on sale from an LBS. It lists at $750.

Definitely not 105 components, but as I mentioned before, you do not NEED 105 components, even to ride with top-class riders. The current-gen Sora/2200 components shift flawlessly for me.

I ride this bike entirely stock on the fast group roadie rides round here.
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Old 05-20-10, 11:08 PM   #29
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I can attest to what others have said about it being the engine. I spent way more on my bike that I should have and it makes me feel stupid when a guy on a $50 mountain bike flys past me like I am standing still.

Just keep working on the engine.
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Old 05-20-10, 11:10 PM   #30
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Not much. Trust me on this.
I just did my fastest century, and fastest double century, on my backup bike. It's about 3lbs heavier, Alu vs. carbon and has an uncomfortable saddle. The bike doesn't matter, trust those of us who spend too much for fancy bikes.
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Old 05-21-10, 07:03 AM   #31
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Here's what I found: Ride more, lose weight - your current bike mysterioulsy gets faster. Nothing better than dropping people on bikes that cost more than the car I drive.
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Old 05-21-10, 07:21 AM   #32
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I finished last summer on my Klein Quantum running 105 and Rolf Vector wheels I averaged a little over 17mph.

Expected a big improvement after a winter of spinning classes I started this summer on a new Cervelo Soloist running Ultegra and custom wheels and after my first handful of rides my average was only up to 18mph!

To me that suggests it's not about the bike?

That said my average a has now nudged up to a smidgen under 20mph
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Old 05-21-10, 08:44 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by sabazel
I'm going to stick with my ride for the rest of the season, he's done a good job for me thus far and I have no complaints.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrong View Post
hmmmm...I always figured my bike for a "she".
I'm a girl. Thus, I prefer to ride a man.
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Old 05-21-10, 09:34 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabazel View Post
Originally Posted by sabazel
I'm going to stick with my ride for the rest of the season, he's done a good job for me thus far and I have no complaints.



I'm a girl. Thus, I prefer to ride a man.
That makes sense. But be careful what you say around here!

+1 to sticking with what you have, and consider dropping your bars a cm at a time to get more aero.
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Old 05-21-10, 09:43 AM   #35
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I can't believe nobody has said this yet:
A bike can't make YOU faster. Even if a bike can make you jump from B group to A group, YOU are still the same speed.
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Old 05-21-10, 09:44 AM   #36
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i never thought i would notice the different characteristics that much but recently i have been doing hill repeats everyday with 2 different bikes and the constant repetition has made the differences stand out a mile and initial impressions on the new bike were wrong. For some reason, one bike is a lot more nimble but doesn't climb as well as the less nimble one. That is odd isn't it?
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Old 05-21-10, 09:54 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by colombo357 View Post
I went from 105 to Dura Ace and it made me SLOWER. My head got too big which increased wind resistance.
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Old 05-21-10, 09:59 AM   #38
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A bike can't make you any faster than your fitness allows, but it can slow you down...
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Old 05-21-10, 10:02 AM   #39
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No, but for real - I got my Giant Defy 3 last year for $695 on sale from an LBS. It lists at $750.

Definitely not 105 components, but as I mentioned before, you do not NEED 105 components, even to ride with top-class riders. The current-gen Sora/2200 components shift flawlessly for me.

I ride this bike entirely stock on the fast group roadie rides round here.
I agree with Sora/2200 working very well. I think my Jamis is a "faster" bike than my Trek even though my Trek is 105/Tiagra. My average speeds are higher on it and I don't know why....
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Old 05-21-10, 11:34 AM   #40
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hmmmm...I always figured my bike for a "she".
I always figured my bike for a bike, I ride it. I don't get people calling bikes him/her or naming them. But to each their own.
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Old 05-21-10, 11:50 AM   #41
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Placebo effect might actually make you faster if you want to get out and ride more and feel faster. I feel better on my Allez than I did on my Giant, so I like to ride more, which makes me faster.
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Old 05-21-10, 11:51 AM   #42
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+0.5 mph
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Old 05-21-10, 12:25 PM   #43
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According to Buycycling Magazine, you ought to have a $7000 and up carbon bike in order to see some improvements. In fact you should look into the Di2 series if you want to consider going faster. Ultegra/Dura Ace are still dependent on the $5 mfg cost for cables.
With $15,000 budget, you should see some nice gains. According to Buycycling Magazine of course. They have reviews for them fast bikes there.
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Old 05-21-10, 02:13 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by roccobike View Post
Changing the bike won't make any difference. But upgrading your wheelset might make a small difference. I upgraded to Ksyrium Elites. My speeds, so far this year are up around 1 MPH over the same rides last year. I'm attributing a portion of that increase to the wheels.
Ok, I'm just asking - did you also remeasure the size of fully inflated tires on the new wheels and update your speedometer accordingly?

Even if you're using the same tire, a different size wheel can change the size of the tire. I know because a 28c tire that fit without rubbing the frame on my old wheel wouldn't fit without rubbing the frame on my new front wheel with the same tire and inflation pressure.
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Old 05-21-10, 02:16 PM   #45
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Very interesting reads.

I've been biking for a year now after suffering a couple of nasty femur breaks. I recently sold my dirtbike (which caused said breaks), and have around 3k to play with, and was looking at upgrading from a Trek 1.5 to a Madone 5 series. Now I'm not so sure that's very smart to do w/my money.

Any input? I plan to stick w/cycling and do a century this summer. Should I spend my money at all? Maybe just look at a 4-series?

Thanks ahead.

P.S. love the sight.
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Old 05-21-10, 02:29 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by FitzM View Post
I finished last summer on my Klein Quantum running 105 and Rolf Vector wheels I averaged a little over 17mph.

Expected a big improvement after a winter of spinning classes I started this summer on a new Cervelo Soloist running Ultegra and custom wheels and after my first handful of rides my average was only up to 18mph!

To me that suggests it's not about the bike?

That said my average a has now nudged up to a smidgen under 20mph
It can be about the bike to a certain degree, but like this post illustrates it's not going to happen over night. (barring 50lbs CCM cruiser to R1 SL bike swap). Fit differences can make a difference in not getting all out of a new bike, sometimes your body simply needs to get used to the new bike. You can be comfy on your heavier older bike, but unless you're in the EXACT same position on the new bike (a high degree of improbability) you aren't going to ride it the same way. That's why racers are not recommended to change anything fit wise before racing, no new seats, no new stems, etc, ... a new set of wheels no worries.

To see how much one got out of a winter of spinning, get back on the old bike after a winter in the gym.
I have three different bikes and I need to "get used" to them when I get on a different bike (winter/summer).

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Old 05-21-10, 06:02 PM   #47
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The only way to get faster is to have your jersey match your bike.
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Old 05-21-10, 06:19 PM   #48
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I'm doing crit races on a cross bike with canti brakes, still hunting down breaks and going for solos and prims, so I guess the bike doesnt do anything better, but the nice ones looksbetter when parked HAHA
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Old 05-21-10, 07:35 PM   #49
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My nice bike shames me into going faster... I've got voices in my head (and a power meter) that tell me I'm not worthy of my 'fast' carbon bike.

If my funds were more limited and I wanted to get stronger/faster as quickly as possible, I'd go with a cheap bike and a powertap long before spending money on a nicer bike. Of course you should get both if you have the means.
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Old 05-21-10, 07:39 PM   #50
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1 million.
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