AngryScientist 

stein's post really got me thinking about redoing my steel trek with a track crank and an 8-sp rear (it has 8-sp sti shifters on it), using a mtb rd and wide range mtb 8-sp cassette.

seems like a great idea, i wouldnt need a fd at all, and i would have a pretty nice gear range in the rear, anyone running anything like this?

chaulky61

I built up a bike for my girlfriend with a single front chain ring. She does not like the aggressive position of road bars so I have a flat bar with a mountain bike shifter for a 9 -speed ultegra rd. She mainly rides on flat terrain so has more than enough gearing options, and the bike is pretty light for an aluminum OCR with stock wheels. She loves it.

tollhousecookie

Yes, I have a few... I commute on a 39 front w/ a 11-26 It is geared for my commute.

ls0725

i know someone who uses a single chainring, it's a 39t, rear is 11-25.

SalsaPodio

It probably won't be as much of a problem with a road bike, but with mountain bikes running a 1x(8,9) setup they usually have a chain keeper or front derailuer to keep the chain from falling off.

colombo357

You'll want something to keep the chain on though. E-thirteen makes good guides for downhill road bikes.

mazdaspeed

I did once and it worked great for getting around

ls01

Yep! 3 of them on the saame bike...... wait ..wut?

canam73

I am currently on a 1x8 build. I have a mountain bike (for sale) that I had been riding in any condition I didn't want to subject one of my road bikes to. But I really don't need a suspension or full knobbys or the anything but the middle ring and frankly just wanted to build something new and unusual. I came across a 90s lugged Schwinn Cross Cut frame and started with that as I like the look and wanted to run 700c wheels. Anyway, 46t track crank, Sun CR18 w/Alivio hubs, seat & seatpost, nitto dirtdrop stem and soma urban pursuit bars are already in the inventory. I need to get an 11-34 cassette, rear derailleur, brakes & levers and shifter. I will most likely use a Falcon friction thumb shifter and Tektro brake stuff.

Anyway, that will be may simple and durable (hopefully) state park bike.

ptle

I can commute around pretty well with a 42 with a 6 speed in the back (11-28).

I don't know if you'd really want a mountain bike cassette though. I feel like the jump between gears would be too much.

I was looking at the gear calculator off Sheldon Brown's website. A 39/11 seems to be a small top gear... However the 39/28 is pretty good for a hilly area with some climbs.

RT

44t by 11-26 in the back in hilly Colorado. Legs are learning the hills, and the strength gain is noticeable. I say do it.

daredevil

my newest ride is an IGH, love it. So yes, single ring up front for me.

merlinextraligh

as for keeping the chain on, ask David Millar.

You want to at least have a chainring that's designed to be a single chain ring (i.e. not ramped, pinned, and teeth shaped to facilitate shifting)

Basil Moss

On my fixed gear time trial bike, and my fixed gear winter training bike, I have only a single chainring. On my road bike I use 53-42 chainrings with 12-23 10 speed cassette. I abhor wide ratio cassettes, and also loath the gap between a 53 chainring and a 39 small ring. How people can cope with compacts with a 50/34 I cannot imagine.

AEO

NOS chainrings from 105, RSX, 600 era are perfect for this.

AngryScientist 

yea, i was going to use a track crankset and chainring, which are meant to ride mono.

pretzelface

If you're going to be shifting on the rear, be aware that you'll need a 3/32" chainring, rather than the 1/8" that comes on many track cranksets. You can probably save a buck or two by putting a singlespeed-specific chainring on your existing road crank (you will likely require different chainring bolts).

IMHO, it's not worth buying a new crankset unless you're going to upgrade to an external-bearing crank - and the only two external-bearing track cranks I'm aware of (Truvativ Omnium and RaceFace Decadence) use 1/8" chainrings.

epenthetic

I commute on a single-ring touring bike with a 42t and an 8 speed rear. Just get any old square-taper and replace the rings with a cheap SS chainring, like a $20 Rocket Ring. You really don't even need a wide-range cassette or mtb RD- a 12-25 or 12-26 with anything under 44t is usable for most climbs.

AEO

I've tried 42x 11-25 and that worked out pretty good for flatland and rolling hills, but it sucked going up hills.

kaliayev

Anyone have pics. I am currently stripping parts off a 92 Trek 1200 that I rebuilt with Ultegra 9 sp components and putting them on a Santana frame build. So I was considering doing a 1X7 build with parts I have using the Trek. Using the original 105 crank and BB I was thinking of putting a Salsa chain guard(I will have to purchase this) on the outer chain and using the inner 42T. I have a set of Rigida rims with a 7 speed hub and a Shimano 7 speed 11-28 cassette and 7 sp chain. Derailleur is a 105 RD-1056. I will also be using the original 105 brakes. For shifting I have a 7 speed SL-BS50 bar end that will perch on the flats of a Nitto Bullhorn bar via a Paul's Thumbie. Also on the flats a set of Canecreek Crosstops. Don't have any concerns on the shifting, but will the Crosstops be sufficient?

canam73

You can sometimes find new track cranks with a 3/32 chainring on eBay for $50 or less. I got a Tec 9 there and you might find a Pake, too.

Reynolds 

Gearing should be no problem, but chainline would be awful on some gears. Yes, I know, it's old fashioned to worry about chainline...

Basil Moss

My fixed TT bike has derailler chain (3/32nd) and I use derailler specific chainrings on the front, with ramps, pins, shifting gates etc. No FD on there to stop it falling off, and I've not dropped a chain yet. The chain line is perfect though, which is probably most important.

Just noticed the OP said 8 speed wide ratio. An 8 speed wide ratio cassette is my vision of hell.

pretzelface

Yup. Remember, the OP is going to be doing some rather severe cross-chaining. Dropping the chain is quite likely with a 1x8 using a ramped chainring. Hell, it's likely without one - I'd personally go the extra step and use a chain retention device, like on a cyclocross bike.