Lenaxia

I had a fit done recently on my newish bike and I was told that I need a new stem and figured I'd upgrade/replace my handlebars while I'm at it considering the bike is somewhat old. There's a huge selection of handlebars out there so I'm not really even sure where to start.

My spending range is $100 max preferably though if its close that's also acceptable. The bike itself is a 2001 62cm Trek 5200 and I use it for my daily commuter as well as the occasional 30+mi ride on the weekends.

I figure from reading other people's comments, any stem within the 30-40$ range is pretty acceptable and will work fine.


In addition to suggestions, I had a few questions about picking handlebars beyond the "you have to try them to know if you like them"

The LBS guy said I should get a 31.8 handlebar, does that just refer to the clamp point for the stem or does that also refer to the overall thickness of the handles too? My current handles feel a bit thin and I'm hoping to get some that are a bit thicker this time around since I have medium sized hands.

Also, what's the best way to figure out how big of a drop I should be shopping for? The way my handle bars are set up right now, my drops aren't actually parallel to the ground they're angled slightly upwards at the front do they make the drops at different angles, or is it something I should just deal with?

[edit] Oh um... I guess I should also mention I have a climbing addiction. Makes a difference?

SkinnyLegs

FSA Omega Compact bars work well with 9 speed Ultegra. It most likely has less reach than your current bars so that will influence what length stem you need.

sounds7

For 69 more bucks you could get some real nice bars. https://www.hmano.com

StanSeven

Your post has to be the most off subject post of the day/week/maybe year. What does 9 speed Ultegra has to do with his question?

SkinnyLegs

Try reading the post dumbass. He has a 2001 Trek 5200.

StanSeven

Again, he asks about a handlebar. How does his drivetrain affect that?

SkinnyLegs

Because different bars work well with different brifters. Since the OP almost certainly has 9 speed Ultegra on that bike, the info is 100% relevant. Don't worry, I'm sure you'll figure this out on your own after a few minutes.

iam7head

to the OP: 31.8 is referring to the stem to handle bar clamp size, it's pretty much the newer standard for roadbike bar(especially composite bar), it's also called oversized(compare to old standard 26.0mm)

if you need some thing that offers more than just a round profile, try those k-wing bar, the flat section is wing shaped, some people likes it, i personally don't care for it.

as far as style of bar(classic drop, compact/shallow drop, ergo, etc), you really have to try it yourself, i went from classic to ergo and end up using compact/shallow drop.

ergo for me is a poor fit because i can't get comforty enough to stay long.


if you look at your current bar, there should be label/engraving for the clamp diameter, reach and drop. get something you want based on that number/spec(baseline)

StanSeven

Bar comfort and position is one thing - how brifters are set up is something totally different.

His questions were:

Bringing up 9 speed Ultegra is a very minor point.

SkinnyLegs

Clueless post of the day. Hood ergonomics and bar shape both affect brifter positioning. If you mounted a Campy 11, Shimano 10, and Shimano 9 speed brifters all on the same bar you'd end up with very different results.


Translation: "I didn't read the OP before my fail flame and now I'm trying to cover my own ass so I don't like a complete idiot."

bike_boy

You should also consider bar width. Most riders choose a width that matches their shoulder width. Some manufacturers measure bar width from outside edge to outside edge. Still, others measure center to center.

StanSeven

I've been warned by several posters to not debate with you. I will take their advice and say no more.

bike_boy

Newer stems are made for 1 1/18" steerer tubes. You'll need to check to see if you have the older 1" diameter steerer tube. If so and you get a newer stem, you mave use a 1/8" shim; check with manufacturers, though (for warranty & safety purposes.) I am thinking that by 2001 most bikes began using the larger steerer tube.

bike_boy

OP, did LBS that did bike fit indicate size stem you need & degree rise/drop?

Example: 110 mm, +/- 10 degrees. You can usually flip a stem over to change from a rise to a drop. Some side printed logos will be upside down, if flipped.

Many (not not all) road stems have a 2 bolt bar clamp. Whereas, mtn. bike bar clamps are typically 4 bolt ones.

Also, some handlebars have indented areas for cable routing. While others allow for internal cable routing. If you feel your current bars are to thin feeling, maybe perhaps try some handlebar gel inserts to go under bar tape.

RT

I am learning about bar reach right now. My most recent build ended up being wayyyyy too stretchy for me, so I reduced the stem by an entire 30mm and I'm still stretched out. I realized after buying my bars that I happened to get a bar with a 'reach' further than other models I was looking at.

EDIT: Yes, I have the right sized frame.

GP

I use Deda Newtons. They're around $100, aluminum, 31.8, with an 84mm reach and 142mm drop.

Lenaxia

Hey everyone, thanks for the fast replies!

I'll take a look into those. I do have medium/large sized hands so I am hoping that the drop to brifters reach won't be a huge issue for me. I am wondering though, will the reduced reach affect my positioning significantly? I am 6'4" and if I cut the reach on my bars further I'm wondering if the limitations would hurt on longer rides. The same goes for the compact drops. I guess in the end I'll still have to give it a shot.

For the K-wing bars, only the top portion is flat right? If thats the case, I dont know how much good it'll do, I hardly spend any time up there, most of my discomfort with my current bars is when I'm on the heel of the hoods. Thanks for the insight into the 31.8 though!

The LBS suggested I up my stem from a 9cm to a 12cm one, their form of measurements was that while in the drops, I should only be able to see 1/4 of the hub above the handlebars which is about what a 12cm stem would give me. They didn't say anything about rise of the stem. I'm currently running about 3.5cm worth of spacers which is how the bike came and is fairly comfortable. Stem is flipped up, from looks of it, about +7 degrees.

I may try the gel thing on my next wrap, I've heard mostly good things about fizik and some bad so figure I'll give that a shot. From what it sounds like you're saying, pretty much all handle bars are the same thickness.

bike_boy

Hey OP. I wouldn't quite say all handlebars are same thickness...

I read where you indicated you liked climbing. Typically, riders will hold tops of the bars or even grabbing hold of hoods when climbing. (just something to consider per bar comfort/fit)

On flat roads or in a paceline, I also like riding w/hands on brifter hoods.

Lenaxia

Ahh gotcha, I see what you mean now.

Climbing or flats, I'm pretty much always on the hoods. I'm only on the tops when I'm being lazy and cruising on flats, and only on the drops, when I'm going down hill.

When trying out bars, do most LBS's allow you to mount everything and feel it? Or do most LBSes require you to do image training and look like a fool holding bars and pretending to have brifters on?

chaadster

I recently went through this and picked up a shallower drop bar in the same width and reach, and a new stem of the same extension.

My objectives were to be able to use the drops more comfortably, and to shave some weight. I succeed on both points with a Deda Neo Alu bar for $35 and Ritchey 4 axis WCS stem for $70 (used). The bar has some nice flex, and is quite light.

bike_boy

Yeah, I use tops too when on flats or being lazy and in drops when sprinting or going downhill.

Dunno about trying out bars. I've only had the ones that came with my bikes. However, I've been doin' the 'fool' thing myself lately at LBS as I want to upgrade my stem/bar from 26mm to 31.8mm stem clamp size. I'm considering carbon as well as the ergo / wing style.

bike_boy

Nice !!

SkinnyLegs

The reduction in reach can be compensated for with a longer stem. Generally, go with a 1cm longer stem to keep the same reach as on traditional shaped bars. So if you're looking at a 120mm stem, then go with a 130mm instead.

If you're really not using the drops at all, then you may find you like the less aggressive position of compact drops. But with a proper length cockpit that may change. No way to tell unless you can try it out somehow beforehand. The FSA Compacts do come stock on a number of bikes so that's one place you could look.

ADSR

I think you should start out by measuring your current bars, then considering what you like or don't like about them. I used to have some stock ergo bend drops on my Giant. I felt like they were too deep and didn't like the shape at all. I went with a 3T Rotundo Pro and have been very happy with it. Just check out the specs and go from there.

chaadster

Thanks, I think so too! (It was a take-off, actually.)