So that's $4000. of parts that I can keep forever until they wear out.
That's one of those "If you have to ask..." questions.I agree that it's not a waste as you can recoup much of that if you wanted to or move it to a new frame,
but I'm curious what the allure is.
I have a bike that performs as well as bikes costing twice as much.
And in reality, it only cost me $550. (after selling off the original drivetrain).
Me, I either go entry-level or full-bore.For about the same price you could get a super6 with red.
My next bike will be a HiMOD league rig.
And...I'm not a SRAM fan.
The only thing I'd keep from a SuperSix Red bike would be the wheelset.
Everything else would have to go.
Add another $3000. to that price
after I sell of the OEM parts maybe.
And the color. No likey.
I'd prefer the Dura Ace SuperSix (if I had to buy a SuperSix). JET BLACK! NICE!
Cost less, better groupset for me, but will need new wheels, cockpit, brakes.
Another $1000. to the price (after I sell off the take-off parts).
So, it jumps from $4500. to $5500. minimum.
See? They call it a Dura Ace bike, but only the shifters and derailleurs are DA.
Everything else is 2nd tier Ultegra or FSA.
Did I mention the crankset would have to go to match my bike's crankset?
So now, I'd have to get a crankset as well...in the immortal words
of Wiz and Iceman: "Mo' money, mo' money, mo' money!"
And I STILL wouldn't have the frameset I'd really want...the HiMOD.
Ok, get say a SuperSix...now build it with my specs.I'm getting a caad because I can get a good bike for the money I'm willing to spend but if I had 4Gs or more I'd probably be looking at a carbon something.
How much is it going to cost you then? $6000. (parts: $2500.+ sell off stock parts - $500. + my build $4000.).
For 4G's, you're not going to get a plastic bike with a build anywhere near what my bike is rockin'.
You'll probably get something with a "mix" of mostly 2nd tier parts with a few bling
bits thrown in so that they can advertise "Dura Ace" or "Red" for that money.
And carbon isn't automatically always better.
I wouldn't buy a $4,000. then upgrade it.
By the time it's my definition of perfect, it'll be up to twice it's cost.
No matter what bike I get, I'm going to personalize it (cockpit, wheels, etc...),
unless I purchase something with a nearly complete spec (like a Madone 6.X).
A $4K bike (for me) will need a cockpit, wheelset, tires, brakepads, and drivetrain.
Then it turns out that I'll just be overpaying for a 2nd tier frameset.
Bikes like that make sense for someone who's happy with it "as is"
and will never regret never getting the top of the line frameset.
I didn't buy my CAAD to sell it or to reoup my cost on it.
When you buy a bike out of love, money don't matter.
My original plan was to buy the CAAD, build it up,
ride the hell out of it until I could afford a really nice carbon frameset,
then transfer all the parts over to the new framset.
Then, I was going to "down" build the CAAD into a more race oriented beater bike
(used 105 groupset, trainer wheels, etc...).
BUT! Now I'm NOT going to transfer the parts over because I've fallen in love with the CAAD!
(a common occurrence among the CAAD cult!)
And no matter what, it's well worth the $4500. I'll invest into it.
It will STILL be the best bang for the buck bike available.
I think every rider should get the best that they can afford of anything and if good
quality pedals that cost more than average are the best for one, by all means.
Remember, for some, not all pedals are compatible.
Some might not prefer certain styles.
Some pedals might cause the rider hotspots that others don't.
What if they're above average in cost? Does he suffer just to save a few bucks?
Maybe, jussssst maybe, he notices the difference with his pedals.
Just saw the Caad 10. That's some impressive looking tubing and construction. I know its mostly styling, but the way the seat stays wrap around to meet the TT is very cool. Looks great in white.
New pedals for me are probably less than a few weeks away.. And again, may not get those or spend that much. I'm still not sure. Just threw them out there cause imo they are pretty badass pedals.
Think about the things you feel the most on your bike... saddle, hoods/bars, pedals?
please leavu my bike shop-u...
I often wear cut off jeans over my bike shorts when I'm on my fixie... while riding to the store to get PBR.
You are so bent about my pedal choice that I really haven't even made yet... lol.
When I move back to Baltimore, we should ride. I'll wear my cutoffs and we can talk pedals.
Last edited by BmoreDrew; 11-05-10 at 05:54 PM.
They look like badass pedals, though. For myself, though, I got some RXS First pedals when I got my frameset from CC:
Sorry for the bad pic quality. Its been sitting for to long, but currently has Red crank, 3t doric seat post, and a deda zero100 stem. I just bought some dura ace wheels as well that should be here next week. Plans are Red shifters for zero loss, force derailers, and 3t bars. I am not really sure about saddle or brakes yet. I am mixed on getting red brakes, or just some light weight brakes like planet x.
Then again, that's been the extent of my experience with clipless pedals. I don't even want to bother with Speedplay because I keep reading about guys having to keep the cleats clean (and the cleats themselves look like overbuilt monstrosities, honestly). I'm not that excited about Keo and SPD-SL either because they appear to rely on spring tension to keep the cleat in place. I think that if you pulled straight up on Time and CB pedals, the cleats will have to either break or pull the threaded inserts out of the shoe before popping out of the pedal. Plus, I haven't yet had to worry about where I walk with the Time cleats (I'll find out someday if they're as mudproof as CB).
Look Keo Carbons are great. You'll dig 'em on a CAAD
2009 Cannondale CAAD 9-6
2005 Raleigh M40
Riding the mountains of North Carolina
I do today what you don't , so I can do tomorrow what you can't
"Absolutely imbecilic. But typical." ..... pcad
And.... I'm guessing you always use periods incorrectly, too. Well done, you may now board the fail boat.