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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

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Old 03-13-14, 09:53 AM   #7801
THSdrummer
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Sorry to hear about your crash, chaser97. I wish you the best in healing!

Regarding the size down, I'd say it would be doable. I supposedly have the legs for a 56, but the torso for a 54, but to be honest, my seatpost isn't raised very high, so I often wonder if I could size down to a 52 from a 54. The geo charts suggest it is possible for both of us to go undersize just based on stack and reach. You'll lose just over a half centimeter of stack and just under half a centimeter of reach. Judging by your photo there, you have some room to add a slightly longer stem (or longer reach handlebars, which would add more like 1/2 a centimeter) and show some more seatpost. Am I correct in that your steerer tube has been cut? If so, I definitely think you could go down 1 size. Just add another spacer, show a bit more seatpost, and perhaps get a longer stem or handlebars - if you want to maintain an aggressive fit.

And as far as buying a frame and building it with Campy - please do! I want pictures.
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Old 03-13-14, 10:35 AM   #7802
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Sorry to hear it man; I was hit by a car back in November and did some reconstructive surgery on my right forearm.

I recently went from a big 56cm frame (100mm stem)to a 54cm CAAD10. I didn't get much support from the shop which basically said to either buy a bike off the wall or pay us $400 for a video-fit. So I brought a plumb-bob for KOPS measurement and went from there. I rode a 52 and 54 about 10-miles each, ultimately the extreme "drop" on the 52 pushed me to buy the 54cm frame. I currently run that frame with a 15mm SB post and a 110mm stem (110mm printed, it measures 122cm with the calipers from steering tube center to bar center). I really, really like running the 2cm+ longer stem. It slows the steering way down and makes sprinting less sketchy. I agree with the "sense of dominance".
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Old 03-13-14, 11:22 AM   #7803
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Chaser97. Sorry to hear that.

I have a 54cm frame. Aesthetically, it looks alright. If I have to be picky, I would like to ride a 52cm frame. Just because I like seeing more seat post.
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Old 03-13-14, 11:47 AM   #7804
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Whoa, Chaser, that was some accident, glad that you are still around to tell us about things, the scapula fracture is pretty painful, as I understand that one. Hope the recovery goes by quickly but don't push things, spend the time on choosing and outfitting a new CAAD 10. There are several nice frame sets on eBay right now, if you are looking at a total build. The '14s sure look tasty to me, though. No advice as to the size, fitting is to personal and individual. Best of luck.

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Old 03-13-14, 11:59 AM   #7805
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^ Unless chaser ran a stop sign or something, it sounds like (to me) that the driver will buy a new bike, or her insurance will buy a new bike, along w/paying for medical bills and what not.
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Old 03-13-14, 12:24 PM   #7806
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sorry to hear about your crash Chaser..im on a 52, and spent some time on a 50-loved it, the handling and steering were noticeably more direct. i did stick with the 52 as im already pushing the size limits for a 5'10 guy...
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Old 03-13-14, 02:20 PM   #7807
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I'm playing around with the idea of upgrading the RS80s that came with my CAAD10 to go a little more aero. Any suggestions?
I'm riding the Reynolds Assault 46 clinchers. Weight is around 1500g. Solid wheel and still true after two years.
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Old 03-13-14, 02:46 PM   #7808
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That stinks, sorry for your shoulder and your bike. Hope you get better soon

As far as downsizing I am on a 56 and should be on a 58.

You definitely feel a sense of dominance over your bike
Steering is a little more twitchy (I feel in a good way)
if you like the position you're in now, you will have to show more seat tube and run a few spacers
Longer stem
I feel more confident on fast down hill descents because you have more control from the longer stem

One thing to check out would be knee clearance w/your head tube/back of stem/steerer tube. Out of the saddle riding/sprinting may give you an issue (like your knees hitting) I don't have this problem.

Overall, I am loving my downsized frame.
Thanks, I don't think knee clearance will be an issue for me. Stem is 120mm already.
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Old 03-13-14, 02:48 PM   #7809
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^ Unless chaser ran a stop sign or something, it sounds like (to me) that the driver will buy a new bike, or her insurance will buy a new bike, along w/paying for medical bills and what not.
No, it was a totally clear road... no traffic in front or behind me, no parked cars, nothing!
She has admitted liability so yes, the driver will be paying : )
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Old 03-13-14, 02:49 PM   #7810
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sorry to hear about your crash Chaser..im on a 52, and spent some time on a 50-loved it, the handling and steering were noticeably more direct. i did stick with the 52 as im already pushing the size limits for a 5'10 guy...
Thanks, yes I am tempted by a 50cm. I am 5'8"
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Old 03-13-14, 02:53 PM   #7811
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Sorry to hear about your crash, chaser97. I wish you the best in healing!

Regarding the size down, I'd say it would be doable. I supposedly have the legs for a 56, but the torso for a 54, but to be honest, my seatpost isn't raised very high, so I often wonder if I could size down to a 52 from a 54. The geo charts suggest it is possible for both of us to go undersize just based on stack and reach. You'll lose just over a half centimeter of stack and just under half a centimeter of reach. Judging by your photo there, you have some room to add a slightly longer stem (or longer reach handlebars, which would add more like 1/2 a centimeter) and show some more seatpost. Am I correct in that your steerer tube has been cut? If so, I definitely think you could go down 1 size. Just add another spacer, show a bit more seatpost, and perhaps get a longer stem or handlebars - if you want to maintain an aggressive fit.

And as far as buying a frame and building it with Campy - please do! I want pictures.
Thanks, yes steerer tube is cut, I could easily add one more 5mm spacer to maintain the same height. Stem is 120mm - I actually have zip stem ad seatpost now. I could add reach with bar. current bar is 73mm reach - the new zipp one I want is 80mm.
Cant wait to build new CAAD 10 but have to wait for some cash and also to be able to move my arm/shoulder without going into orbit.
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Old 03-13-14, 02:56 PM   #7812
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Whoa, Chaser, that was some accident, glad that you are still around to tell us about things, the scapula fracture is pretty painful, as I understand that one. Hope the recovery goes by quickly but don't push things, spend the time on choosing and outfitting a new CAAD 10. There are several nice frame sets on eBay right now, if you are looking at a total build. The '14s sure look tasty to me, though. No advice as to the size, fitting is to personal and individual. Best of luck.

Bill
Thanks Bill. Yes, it hurts like hell but it could have been a lot worse, a few mili-seconds later and the car would have conacted my leg instead of the fork/wheel.
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Old 03-13-14, 02:57 PM   #7813
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Sorry to hear it man; I was hit by a car back in November and did some reconstructive surgery on my right forearm.

I recently went from a big 56cm frame (100mm stem)to a 54cm CAAD10. I didn't get much support from the shop which basically said to either buy a bike off the wall or pay us $400 for a video-fit. So I brought a plumb-bob for KOPS measurement and went from there. I rode a 52 and 54 about 10-miles each, ultimately the extreme "drop" on the 52 pushed me to buy the 54cm frame. I currently run that frame with a 15mm SB post and a 110mm stem (110mm printed, it measures 122cm with the calipers from steering tube center to bar center). I really, really like running the 2cm+ longer stem. It slows the steering way down and makes sprinting less sketchy. I agree with the "sense of dominance".
Tha nks, hope your arm is ok for riding now. yes, bike shops are either un qualified to 'size' the bike or they want you to pay £50 per hour for a full bike fit : /
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Old 03-13-14, 03:30 PM   #7814
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Tha nks, hope your arm is ok for riding now. yes, bike shops are either un qualified to 'size' the bike or they want you to pay £50 per hour for a full bike fit : /
Getting fit for a bike is part of the cost of a new bike

Also twitchy wasnt the best word to describe it (unless you're going REALLY slow)

I gave my self a basic fit from watching "art's cyclery" channel on youtube. they are awesome, ever bought my bike form them

I didnt have time to have them fit me though I literally bought it, threw it in the car and gf and I bucketed up and we left
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Old 03-14-14, 09:19 AM   #7815
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I've just set up my bike trainer in front of a mirror to measure leg angle and what not, and made minor adjustments during/after rides. I haven't paid for a fitting just yet. One, because the roadies I talk to can't name a great fitter in the area. Two, because I don't get to ride to frequently yet. The summer of 2015 I'll be done with college running and can focus on cycling or whatever else I want!

Spring Break begins this weekend. Due to our workout schedule, I don't think I'll be able to ride even once. This might be the worst spring break yet. Might have to go until May for a ride.
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Old 03-14-14, 05:58 PM   #7816
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Seems like a lot of folks run into BB30 "creaking" issues which leads me to believe I will also run into these problems. Being I haven't put many miles on my Caad10 yet I just don't kknow what to expect. From what I've been reading it seems careless installation seems to bethe
culprit.
Anyone here NOT run into bb30 issues? Is it innevitable or just some poor unlucky saps that get stuck with a faulty bottom bracket?
Multiple trips to multiple LBS to resolve a creaky BB30 crank. Finally broke down and swapped out the factory FSA cranks for a Shimano 105 and C-Bear adapter. No problems since.

I do find it a little annoying when people blame bad maintenance, such as powerwashers and rain and dirt. My bike is meticulous and I when it does get dirty it gets a shower in the bath tub (aptmt living).
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Old 03-14-14, 06:02 PM   #7817
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That's not a hollowgram crank. Looks like it's a carbon FSA but not sure what model. You can't ditch BB30 unless you buy a non BB30 bike. You can put an adapter in and use different cranks but I don't really get the benefit of doing that. You now have another piece in there to creak or whatever plus the added weight. If someone wants to use non BB30 cranks I think it would be best to just buy a non BB30 bike. If you have BB30 then live with it. It's not that bad and some argue better.
Are you kidding me? Live with a creaky crank? Impossible. You obviously have never had to endure such punishment.
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Old 03-14-14, 07:02 PM   #7818
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Finally, someone is in the same page. Anyway, when people started blaming on maintenance, I just lost interest in the conversation. Oh well, my Praxis Works BB is still creak free after one race in the rain and another wet training ride. My old BB30 would not even survive 1 wet (not raining) training ride. My 2 cents anyway.

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Are you kidding me? Live with a creaky crank? Impossible. You obviously have never had to endure such punishment.
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Multiple trips to multiple LBS to resolve a creaky BB30 crank. Finally broke down and swapped out the factory FSA cranks for a Shimano 105 and C-Bear adapter. No problems since.

I do find it a little annoying when people blame bad maintenance, such as powerwashers and rain and dirt. My bike is meticulous and I when it does get dirty it gets a shower in the bath tub (aptmt living).
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Old 03-15-14, 08:05 AM   #7819
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I also don't know whether to go for a 52CM again or downszize to a 50cm. I know a couple of you on here have done that. Pls do you have any thought and comparisons?
What do you hope to gain by downsizing?

You already have a good length stem for stable handling and proper weight distribution; your spacer stack is not extremely tall, but it's not really short either - adding more spacers in combination with a longer stem would only serve to decrease front end stiffness and increase stress on the steerer tube; looks wise, a longer seat post is considered more attractive but a spacer stack with a long stem just screams "frame too small" to me; as for weight saving, you could save as much or more grams by going for a different paint job. The only positive I can see is a slight increase in comfort from the longer seat post. In my opinion, it's not worth it.
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Old 03-15-14, 08:56 AM   #7820
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I've been running BB30 for awhile now on a Supersix and both my CAAD10's.

0 creaking and I've ridden through rain a ton of times and did a race in massive rain.
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Old 03-15-14, 10:35 AM   #7821
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If my crank creaks or anything else on my bicycle makes a noise, time stops. Tolerating noise on a bicycle is the same mentality that turns-up the radio to hush noises from a car.
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Old 03-15-14, 11:16 AM   #7822
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^ my derailleur adjusters in front of the top tub click together as I ride. IT DRIVES ME NUTS.
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Old 03-15-14, 11:41 AM   #7823
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Just got my new toy.
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Old 03-15-14, 11:49 AM   #7824
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Here is another pic.
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Old 03-15-14, 01:34 PM   #7825
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Here is another pic.
Nice! Those wheels really make it pop.
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