The Cult of CAAD...
#7952
Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: California
Posts: 31
Bikes: Felt Z4, CAAD10
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I would think the main difference is 2014 Ultegra 11speed group, 2013 Di2-10speed group, noticed the 2013 has better wheels, crank
#7953
Senior Member
#7954
Senior Member
#7955
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AdMo
Posts: 482
Bikes: cannondales 84 ST500; 87SR500; 95 CAAD 3 Silk Road 500; 99 CAAD 3 Frameset(project)
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#7957
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Join Date: Oct 2013
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2014 CAAD10's have switchable cable stops for internal Di2 routing, while the 2013 Black Inc is a pure Di2 only frame and doesn't have external cable stops for the derailleures.
#7958
Semper Fi
Join Date: Jan 2008
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In that time frame Cannondale just used the CAD identifier, the second A came along later on, in the late 90's, my R500 is a either CAD 2.8 or a CAD 3 frame set, I'll have to ask my daughter which, she had it in Atlanta for her riding. Regardless of which the frame is called, I love them all, my 91 R300 and the newest CAAD 10 both give me a lot of satisfaction and (s)miles. The latest CAAD 10has the Di or EPS ready cable routing, that one will be a bigger aspect as time passes.
Bill
Bill
__________________
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Last edited by qcpmsame; 04-02-14 at 05:48 AM.
#7959
Senior Member
#7960
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 662
Bikes: '12 CAAD10 3, '88 Raleigh Talon
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#7961
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AdMo
Posts: 482
Bikes: cannondales 84 ST500; 87SR500; 95 CAAD 3 Silk Road 500; 99 CAAD 3 Frameset(project)
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#7962
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Rep. of Dallas
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Since we posting general Cannondale aluminum, I guess I'll show-off my aluminum Cannondales:
This is the $75 bicycle that started it all and I still ride it around and leave it outside bars and at the [car]racetracks; it probably needs to go to the landfill at this point because it's trashed, but no one would steal it:
This was a $200 CL find, my first roadbike, and although it's too small I did about 500 miles on it before getting a modern bicycle (not a CAAD). :
This is my MTB which is also Cannondale and aluminum:
sorry about the non-drive side photos.
...and I'm reposting my special-lover bicycle:
This is the $75 bicycle that started it all and I still ride it around and leave it outside bars and at the [car]racetracks; it probably needs to go to the landfill at this point because it's trashed, but no one would steal it:
This was a $200 CL find, my first roadbike, and although it's too small I did about 500 miles on it before getting a modern bicycle (not a CAAD). :
This is my MTB which is also Cannondale and aluminum:
sorry about the non-drive side photos.
...and I'm reposting my special-lover bicycle:
#7963
Senior Member
My 2013 Black Inc. has had the bb removed and lubed twice for creaking, third time it was removed, cleaned, lubed, and re-installed with "green" loctite applied to the outer surface of the bearing where it contacts the frame. Three rides in and no noise so far. There are several threads about this issue with several manufacturers and most seem to fix it without replacing anything. Be sure that whoever does this for you uses the GREEN loctite, anything stronger and you could end up damaging the frame upon the next service!
#7964
Senior Member
#7965
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 794
Bikes: '11 Merlin Extralight, '98 Dean Castanza, '89 Schwinn Prologue
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#7966
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 974
Bikes: One with square wheels
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The point of my post was to inform you that there is no structural difference between the two frames because if you bought the 2014 in hopes that it was stiffer or something, you would be wasting your money.
#7967
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3
Bikes: CAAD 10-2, Kilo TT Pro
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Took a break from road cycling for while, wanted to get back into it -- found a great deal on this 2013 CAAD10-2
#7968
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AdMo
Posts: 482
Bikes: cannondales 84 ST500; 87SR500; 95 CAAD 3 Silk Road 500; 99 CAAD 3 Frameset(project)
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#7969
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Wild and Wonderful
Posts: 99
Bikes: 2014 CAAD10-3 2000 LeMond BA
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My 2013 Black Inc. has had the bb removed and lubed twice for creaking, third time it was removed, cleaned, lubed, and re-installed with "green" loctite applied to the outer surface of the bearing where it contacts the frame. Three rides in and no noise so far. There are several threads about this issue with several manufacturers and most seem to fix it without replacing anything. Be sure that whoever does this for you uses the GREEN loctite, anything stronger and you could end up damaging the frame upon the next service!
#7970
Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Perrysburg, OH
Posts: 34
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale CAAD10 5
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Creak of Death...
So I had a creak coming from my BB, brought it to the shop and they said it was dirty. They cleaned it out and lubed it up. This worked for about 300-400 miles. It came back with a vengeance the other day. So I cleaned the drive train, figured getting caught in the rain may have been contributing to the problem. IT WORKED....for 15 miles.
So now I am bashing my head against the wall for it is one of the most annoying noises a cyclist can experience. Does anyone have any solutions to this problem?
As a reference this is exactly what it sounds like (not my bike...or video)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hizLW-zJikc
So I had a creak coming from my BB, brought it to the shop and they said it was dirty. They cleaned it out and lubed it up. This worked for about 300-400 miles. It came back with a vengeance the other day. So I cleaned the drive train, figured getting caught in the rain may have been contributing to the problem. IT WORKED....for 15 miles.
So now I am bashing my head against the wall for it is one of the most annoying noises a cyclist can experience. Does anyone have any solutions to this problem?
As a reference this is exactly what it sounds like (not my bike...or video)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hizLW-zJikc
#7971
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Wild and Wonderful
Posts: 99
Bikes: 2014 CAAD10-3 2000 LeMond BA
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Like many others, I've been down that road. You can check out the latest in my saga here: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...l#post16613760
I am not ready to bring in Cannondale, as I bought the bike at a shop by my parents in NJ and I have only taken it to the local shop here (unfortunately it is the only shop around and I question the mechanics abilities...long story but I have many reasons). I am going to be bringing it to the next closest Cannondale shop as they have been around for ages and was going to have them clean and repack it and then install it with the green locktite to hopefully resolve this issue. After that the only real option I believe is to bring it back to the original shop I bought it from and see what they say
#7972
Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Perrysburg, OH
Posts: 34
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale CAAD10 5
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#7973
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Rep. of Dallas
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There are several green Loctite formulas. 609 and 641 are both bearing retaining compounds, I used 609, cleaned both surfaces with acetone, and pressed-in the FSA adapter. I have 2000 miles with no creaking. If I ever have a problem, meaning the surface is no longer true, I'll switch to one of the Bdop adapters that basically changes the BB30 to a press-fit type adapter. You can also switch to standard BB30 bearings and Wheels Mfg Delrin adapters, or just do the Parlee BB30/shimano bearings which are probably the simplest design. There are at least three options out there but if your BB is already noisy, the FSA adapter is no longer an option.
Edit:
The Bdop adapter is no longer on the site.
Edit 2:
Praxis has an awesome BB30/Shimano adapter now. That's my first choice after the FSA one fails.
Edit:
The Bdop adapter is no longer on the site.
Edit 2:
Praxis has an awesome BB30/Shimano adapter now. That's my first choice after the FSA one fails.
Last edited by SirHustlerEsq; 04-03-14 at 02:38 PM.
#7974
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2014
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New at this forum but been lurking for a long time. I'm 33yrs old and from Belgium.
My 2013 Caad10 also started to creak at the crank after a few rides.
I'm a presision mechanical engineer with 15years professional experience in manufactering parts for automobile and pharmacutical industry.
I dissasembled the bearing and did some measuring. Contact surface roundness was seriously out of tolerance. With some specialty tools I reamed the hole in the frame and remounted the same bearing with a liberal amount of teflon grease. Problem solved and still creak free after 5000kms.
Asian low budget manufactering quality...
My suggestion: If you ride a bike, start to learn how to fix it and stop crying like babies or go walking.
My 2013 Caad10 also started to creak at the crank after a few rides.
I'm a presision mechanical engineer with 15years professional experience in manufactering parts for automobile and pharmacutical industry.
I dissasembled the bearing and did some measuring. Contact surface roundness was seriously out of tolerance. With some specialty tools I reamed the hole in the frame and remounted the same bearing with a liberal amount of teflon grease. Problem solved and still creak free after 5000kms.
Asian low budget manufactering quality...
My suggestion: If you ride a bike, start to learn how to fix it and stop crying like babies or go walking.