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The Cult of CAAD...

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

The Cult of CAAD...

Old 04-01-14, 08:40 PM
  #7951  
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Originally Posted by Pibber
i had to jump the shark on one bike.
I love the idea.
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Old 04-01-14, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Sarcasm
The only difference between the 2013 frames and the 2014 frames, besides colors, it the internal routing hole for the rear brake...I would go with the 2013 as well.
I would think the main difference is 2014 Ultegra 11speed group, 2013 Di2-10speed group, noticed the 2013 has better wheels, crank
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Old 04-01-14, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by turky lurkey
What a beautiful bike!
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Old 04-01-14, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by h2oxtc
What a beautiful bike!
Thanks!
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Old 04-01-14, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by turky lurkey
not Caad, but nice. 84 or 85?
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Old 04-02-14, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Pibber
not Caad, but nice. 84 or 85?
The other change is all Caad10 frames are Di2 compatible!
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Old 04-02-14, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by igotyofire
If you guys found a 2014 CAAD10-3 & a 2013 CAAD10 BLK Inc for the same price, which would you purchase? Is it a no brainier?
2014 CAAD10's have switchable cable stops for internal Di2 routing, while the 2013 Black Inc is a pure Di2 only frame and doesn't have external cable stops for the derailleures.
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Old 04-02-14, 05:35 AM
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In that time frame Cannondale just used the CAD identifier, the second A came along later on, in the late 90's, my R500 is a either CAD 2.8 or a CAD 3 frame set, I'll have to ask my daughter which, she had it in Atlanta for her riding. Regardless of which the frame is called, I love them all, my 91 R300 and the newest CAAD 10 both give me a lot of satisfaction and (s)miles. The latest CAAD 10has the Di or EPS ready cable routing, that one will be a bigger aspect as time passes.

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Last edited by qcpmsame; 04-02-14 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 04-02-14, 08:09 AM
  #7959  
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Originally Posted by pibber
not caad, but nice. 84 or 85?
86 sr 600
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Old 04-02-14, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by turky lurkey
Wow. I love it.

I want to find an old C-Dale with downtube shifters to use a commuter bike so stinkin' bad. That frame color is lovely as well.
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Old 04-02-14, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jets2020
The other change is all Caad10 frames are Di2 compatible!
ok. did you mean to respond to me?

Originally Posted by turky lurkey
86 sr 600
nice ride turk!
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Old 04-02-14, 09:07 AM
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Since we posting general Cannondale aluminum, I guess I'll show-off my aluminum Cannondales:
This is the $75 bicycle that started it all and I still ride it around and leave it outside bars and at the [car]racetracks; it probably needs to go to the landfill at this point because it's trashed, but no one would steal it:

This was a $200 CL find, my first roadbike, and although it's too small I did about 500 miles on it before getting a modern bicycle (not a CAAD). :

This is my MTB which is also Cannondale and aluminum:

sorry about the non-drive side photos.
...and I'm reposting my special-lover bicycle:
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Old 04-02-14, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Doughboy6
I suspected it was the BB, but it has already been taken apart once and repacked. I am truly at a loss at this point for a solution
My 2013 Black Inc. has had the bb removed and lubed twice for creaking, third time it was removed, cleaned, lubed, and re-installed with "green" loctite applied to the outer surface of the bearing where it contacts the frame. Three rides in and no noise so far. There are several threads about this issue with several manufacturers and most seem to fix it without replacing anything. Be sure that whoever does this for you uses the GREEN loctite, anything stronger and you could end up damaging the frame upon the next service!
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Old 04-02-14, 11:47 AM
  #7964  
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Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq
Since we posting general Cannondale aluminum, I guess I'll show-off my aluminum Cannondales:
Great bikes!
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Old 04-02-14, 12:01 PM
  #7965  
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Originally Posted by Pibber


two more days..........................
Is that some sort of weird suspension fork?
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Old 04-02-14, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by igotyofire
I would think the main difference is 2014 Ultegra 11speed group, 2013 Di2-10speed group, noticed the 2013 has better wheels, crank
Components come down to preference for which ever you want more. Of course the black inc will come with better ones, which I assumed you would notice (and did notice).

The point of my post was to inform you that there is no structural difference between the two frames because if you bought the 2014 in hopes that it was stiffer or something, you would be wasting your money.
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Old 04-02-14, 03:15 PM
  #7967  
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Took a break from road cycling for while, wanted to get back into it -- found a great deal on this 2013 CAAD10-2

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Old 04-02-14, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by link0
Is that some sort of weird suspension fork?

it's not weird.
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Old 04-03-14, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by dvdslw
My 2013 Black Inc. has had the bb removed and lubed twice for creaking, third time it was removed, cleaned, lubed, and re-installed with "green" loctite applied to the outer surface of the bearing where it contacts the frame. Three rides in and no noise so far. There are several threads about this issue with several manufacturers and most seem to fix it without replacing anything. Be sure that whoever does this for you uses the GREEN loctite, anything stronger and you could end up damaging the frame upon the next service!
Thanks for the insight, I will be sure to mention that to the shop when I go in. I hope yours continues to be silent, as I know first hand how frustrating that noise is
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Old 04-03-14, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Doughboy6
Creak of Death...

So I had a creak coming from my BB, brought it to the shop and they said it was dirty. They cleaned it out and lubed it up. This worked for about 300-400 miles. It came back with a vengeance the other day. So I cleaned the drive train, figured getting caught in the rain may have been contributing to the problem. IT WORKED....for 15 miles.

So now I am bashing my head against the wall for it is one of the most annoying noises a cyclist can experience. Does anyone have any solutions to this problem?

As a reference this is exactly what it sounds like (not my bike...or video)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hizLW-zJikc
Like many others, I've been down that road. You can check out the latest in my saga here: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...l#post16613760
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Old 04-03-14, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by LordLivingston
Like many others, I've been down that road. You can check out the latest in my saga here: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...l#post16613760
That is most certainly not what I would want to deal with, although from the sounds of it we had/have virtually identical issues. I interestingly enough have the 2014 black on black frame. The noise is so invasive that I put the bike on the sidelines and broke out the LeMond (14 years young). Curious did the wrench at your shop try putting the green locktite that another poster had suggested?

I am not ready to bring in Cannondale, as I bought the bike at a shop by my parents in NJ and I have only taken it to the local shop here (unfortunately it is the only shop around and I question the mechanics abilities...long story but I have many reasons). I am going to be bringing it to the next closest Cannondale shop as they have been around for ages and was going to have them clean and repack it and then install it with the green locktite to hopefully resolve this issue. After that the only real option I believe is to bring it back to the original shop I bought it from and see what they say
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Old 04-03-14, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Doughboy6
Curious did the wrench at your shop try putting the green locktite that another poster had suggested?
Loctite did not come up in any of our discussions, but I can't say for certain the didn't try it.
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Old 04-03-14, 02:32 PM
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There are several green Loctite formulas. 609 and 641 are both bearing retaining compounds, I used 609, cleaned both surfaces with acetone, and pressed-in the FSA adapter. I have 2000 miles with no creaking. If I ever have a problem, meaning the surface is no longer true, I'll switch to one of the Bdop adapters that basically changes the BB30 to a press-fit type adapter. You can also switch to standard BB30 bearings and Wheels Mfg Delrin adapters, or just do the Parlee BB30/shimano bearings which are probably the simplest design. There are at least three options out there but if your BB is already noisy, the FSA adapter is no longer an option.

Edit:
The Bdop adapter is no longer on the site.

Edit 2:
Praxis has an awesome BB30/Shimano adapter now. That's my first choice after the FSA one fails.

Last edited by SirHustlerEsq; 04-03-14 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 04-04-14, 11:24 AM
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New at this forum but been lurking for a long time. I'm 33yrs old and from Belgium.

My 2013 Caad10 also started to creak at the crank after a few rides.

I'm a presision mechanical engineer with 15years professional experience in manufactering parts for automobile and pharmacutical industry.
I dissasembled the bearing and did some measuring. Contact surface roundness was seriously out of tolerance. With some specialty tools I reamed the hole in the frame and remounted the same bearing with a liberal amount of teflon grease. Problem solved and still creak free after 5000kms.

Asian low budget manufactering quality...

My suggestion: If you ride a bike, start to learn how to fix it and stop crying like babies or go walking.
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Old 04-04-14, 01:27 PM
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I don't think many bother to check the BB shell to see if it is within spec.




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