Grad

Hey everyone, just had my brand new 2015 CAAD10 delivered to the house and have been assembling it out in the garage. It was in several pieces in the box and this is my first time working on a high end bike (done plenty of motorcycle wrenching) so I don't want to mess anything up. I have a cycling specific torque wrench on the way and I won't torque anything down tight until it arrives, but I was wondering what the torque value is for the top cap. I had to loosen it to square the stem since it was off to the side when I pulled the bike out of the box. I see the stem bolt values stamped on the stem, but not the top cap. Since it's a carbon fork I want to get it right. Is there a place where I can find the torque values for the entire bike? Google hasn't been too helpful.

Thanks!!

Willbird

I guess the value would depend on the component level ?? I'm getting a 2014 EVO tomorrow :-)...new in store yet :-). They had no CAAD10's under like 60cm.

dvdslw

The usual response around here is go ride them both and then decide but that's usually when the price is close. In your case, there's a pretty big price difference so I think it's a easy decision. The bikes fit very similar due to them sharing almost the exact same geometry but the ride feel is where they differ. I personally liked the Caad10's ride over the Supersix Evo so that's what I bought. The Caad10 just felt better to me compared to an Evo 5 during several back to back test rides where it felt like all of my effort was being applied to forward motion with no frame flex at all where the Supersix Evo felt dead in comparison, almost sluggish. Some like the dampened feel of an entry level carbon bike so I can't say which you would prefer? It might be a good idea after all to ride them both before you decide just to clear your head of any doubts.

I'm basing what I said on the assumption that they are offering you the base "Evo Carbon" frameset which is their entry level offering. After that they have the Evo Hi-Mod and then Evo Nano frames which are made with better grades of carbon so their ride qualities will differ.

Willbird

I road a carbon Giant TCR, then an Aluminum TCR.....and I DID notice that deadness in the Carbon TCR, but not in the EVO, it felt every bit as "alive" as the Aluminum TCR. But they had no CAAD10's to ride :-).

dvdslw

I was assuming it was a frame replacement not a complete bike???

Caad10 stock is probably dwindling down because the Caad12 is due out on a few weeks.

dvdslw

Yeah, the TCR was a turd in comparison, I rode every bike known to man when I went bike shopping. I'm not saying the Evo's a bad decision, it just wasn't a good one for me. I'm a big guy too, 6'5, 225lbs so I'm probably a bit more tuned in to the bounce that the carbon frames feedback to the rider compared to someone who weighs less? For what its worth, when I went bike shopping I had no intention of buying aluminum. I wanted a carbon bike and that was that, but after spending weeks of driving all over Florida looking for the right bike the salesman at the last store I went to said "how about this closeout Caad10 Black Inc, its half off and in your size" I didn't care for the all black color scheme with the ugly gold accents but I said what the heck and took it out for a ride. Let's just say as soon as I started out I knew I'd found the right bike and the Ultegra di2 didn't hurt either.

Willbird

And on top of being a little heavier (I'm 180ish) you might put out twice my FTP too :-).

I went in there looking for a CAAD10 and kinda wish they would have had one, but on the other hand I got a GREAT deal on the EVO, and my heart grows fonder every time I look at the pictures :-).

arben

Take it back! IT'S A VINTAGE THROWBACK!



seriously though, different strokes for different folks, I guess. I love how mine looks, the ride is great (I'm 6'2/236), and Di2 is wonderful.

dvdslw

To be honest the gold kinda grew on me a bit but I ended up using acetone to remove it and got a stainless headtube badge from Cannondale Experts to still show it's a Cannondale, I like the understated stealthy look. I had some carbon wheels on it for a bit that really made it look killer but put the Ultegra's back on for now.

seymour1910

Do you have Fizik seatpost and stem, or is it just the bars? How do you like their bars?

johnyguy

After more research i find the solution if i will have alot of issues with the bb30 i will install this adapter FSA BB30 to 68mm English Thread Bottom Bracket Adaptor | eBay so i can use cheap shimano hollowtech crank brackets but in order to do that i need to get a hollotech crankcase which is not expensive the hollowtech II holds up better than the bb30 so at the end im still getting my CAAD 10. There is also other alternatives like praxis works and wheel manufactures .

Thanks for the input.

johnyguy

as they continue to make the CAAD more light i think i will just stuck with the 10 i dont need the lightest bike out there im 200 lbs so it wont make a big different a few grams and hopefully will get a good deal on it and save some money as well to get a side stand for it lol just kidding.

johnyguy

i saw the caad 12 105 will starting to ship on the 25th of august. the other in September sometimes

rms13

That adapter is crap. I had the same one in my CAAD9 and guess what, after a while it creaked like crazy. No better than standard BB30 cranks and bearings except for the fact that it was loctite into the bb shell and a real pain to get out. Most people swear by this adapter

CONV BB ? SHIMANO ROAD | Praxis Cycles

rms13

Nothing wrong with CAAD10. You can can get that bike below 14 lbs with the right build

Sub 6.3kg CAAD10 Build - Final Weight & Photos pg 9 - Weight Weenies

SpeshulEd 

I'd definitely go with Praxis, they make nice stuff.

Rotor cranks and Praxis rings....mmm, looking good.

johnyguy

yes so for me caad 10 or caad 12 no difference i will go with the better deal get

johnyguy

yes i saw that but it cost more money well if it last a long time than it is better, looks like a nice kit.

johnyguy

so you went back to bb30 and loctite it?

rms13

I had that FSA adapter loctited into the frame with Shimano cranks. After a few hundred miles it started creaking

dvdslw

I really like the Fizik components and have the Cyrano 00 bull bars, cyrano r1 stem, and Arione saddle. I've been waiting for the Cyrano 00 seat post to come out but it keeps getting pushed back, its on their site but not available yet. Once the post comes out I'd like to get the 00 or r1 carbon railed Arione to finish it off.

arben

Oh, yeah! We talked about this before briefly, actually .

IcySmooth52

I'd stick with the 10 because it's can already be dent solely being put in a stand!

Don't even flick the 12

Bob Steel

I would keep the BB30 setup as long as possible. If the BB shell is damaged and can't properly hold the bearings, then go the adapter route. Stuffing an adapter into the shell isn't always the answer. I've been running the BB30 setup for two years now and only replaced the drive side bearing so far. No clicks, ticks, creaks or squeaks. Just using the Park grease and no Loctite. Buy the right tools and it's the easiest BB to work on.

johnyguy

Thanks for the info. What's the park grease?