El Funko

That seems to be a logical answer. I guess it's the same reason they make so many after market car/truck parts. They all function, but not to everyone's idea of a pleasing aesthetic.

But whether or not I find the aesthetics of my short stem pleasing, until my conditioning improves I'm somewhat stuck with it. Or is the recommendation to use a longer stem to "force" myself to stretch? We added the 70mm stem last week to help identify a cause for my right knee pain. The shop tech (who's apparently taken some "classes" in body mechanics) wanted to see if my stretching out for the 90mm stem was causing an unnatural seat position - hence the knee pain.

Either way, I haven't taken any pictures of the bike yet. I'll do that this weekend and post up. But it's a completely stock CAAD9-5 dark grey. You've all seen them before.

rat fink

Thanks for the compliment. I wasn't going to trade the Colnago for a CAAD, but I have someone coming to take a look at it tomorrow, so I will probably be getting something different at the end of the season. I'm keeping my eye out for a cheap CAAD, though. The framesets come up for ~$500 on occasion around here.

K. Legaspi

Got a new EA90 130mm 10º stem.



And I got new shoes, finally.

Banzai

K. Legaspi,

Cannondale's technical guidance regarding their Premium fork has always been fairly specific about NOT having any steerer tube extending above the stem clamp area.

It has to do with the fact that their SI top cap provides the internal reinforcement for the clamping force. If you extend that reinforcement up, the bottom of the stem may be clamped to unreinforced CF steerer.

If you're using a different interface, you may be ok.

K. Legaspi

Oh, I didn't know that. Thanks for the heads up! Greatly appreciate it!

moralleper

I got the same info Banzai has stated about the steer tube and spacers from my bike shop too.

UNLTD1487

Any word on the 2012 CAAD10 / 11?

hkboy313

thats not good. will it crack? my lbs did this to me when i wanted to lower my stem. he didn't cut the fork because i wasn't sure about the new position. in the end maybe a month or 2 of riding, i got it cut just flush of the stem...should i still be worried?

shrinkboy

hey, ivri-- i just saw your post-- paid $1799 for a CAAD9-1, with stock wheels, new tires, chain, cassette, and BB- was a demo model they showed me when i went to the store to see if i could like a CAAD... took it out for spin and within a 100 yards was asking myself "How did Cannondale know I wanted a custom frame?"--- i turned right around and went in and bought it. i've already done two criteriums on it, and i just love the damn thing

irvri

Goodbye to my CAAD9

that's a sweet deal!

El Funko

OK, here it is. Strategically positioned to hide that short stem:



And with the short stem:

Bluechip

rangerdavid

you got a different fork on that too? I can't tell from the pic?

2ndGen

"We’d be concerned that a bike that gets down to a weight this low is going to be fragile,
but Cannondale claim that the EVO’s complex layup and mixture of fibres actually makes this one of
the strongest frames they have ever made. Even to the point of providing data from destructive
tests showing the Evo to be stronger than their own super tough aluminium CAAD9 road frame."

I think this will be my next bike CAADicts!
695g frame (size 56)! And! It's supposed to be durable!

Velo_Tut

^^^ I like! ^^^

hobiek

I did it, I decided to join the Cult.

I just picked up my CAAD10 yesterday and took it for a short ride in the LBS parking lot and all I have to say is .... wait for it ... AWESOMENESS. I made a few changes to it and it was well worth the money spent.

Enjoy.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

... and fully loaded at 14.69 lbs. (everything except for the rider)

Beaker

That's a classy looking bike hobiek, very nice indeed.

EvenKeel

Have a quick question that I'm hoping some CAAD10 owners can help with:

Do you find that the RD cable that runs below the right side chain stay is very close to the chainstay itself (at one point almost touching) and does not run parallel to the chainstay like a lot of other bikes? I find this to the be case on my C10 and I noticed the same thing on another C10 at the LBS.

Thanks

Bluechip

Nope. It's the original fork. A pig I know, but for now my bike budget is getting pretty thin. I've sold a bunch of stuff in the classified section but I spent the money before I had it.

hkboy313

is the performance effected? i think it'd be better..more aero

Runner 1

Another Rival here! It's funny how the blue paint looks almost black. Anyone else notice this on there's?



Stock bike with Speedplay Zeros. I'm keeping the stem flipped up for now.

Runner 1

Actually, I have some (a lot) of questions for those more knowledgeable. Sorry if these seems noobish, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

-There's pieces of clear plastic covering the chainstays and at the point where the cable meets the frame on the head tube. The one on the chainstay sticks out and hits my pedal a lot, and it's accumulating grime beneath it. Is there any reason to keep this here? Is it supposed to be part of the bike?

-I notice when shifting the front gear from the high to the low, sometimes it jams (and causes a good bit of knee pain). I'm new to this type of shifting -- is there something I'm doing wrong?

-I made a very stupid mistake too. I took the rear wheel off to transport the bike but I foolishly forgot to set the gear to the smallest chainring. Of course, when I put the chain back on, I just guessed which ring to put it back on, but I think I got it wrong because the shifting's sort of weird now. Is there a way I can fix this myself without looking like an idiot and taking it back to the bike shop so soon?

-I notice I'm slowly starting to accumulate scratches -- putting my cleats into the pedals sort of nicks the crank arms, and small rocks hit the lower parts of the frame. The scratches are VERY small, but is anyone else OCD to the extent I am about this? Of course I don't want to keep it in a glass case, but I'd like to minimize aesthetic damage.

-Along the same sort of thought, I put my cheap $20 Target speedometer onto the fork. It has rubber padding beneath it and is attached with zipp ties, but this isn't going to scratch it is it? I plan on getting a Cateye once I recoup enough funds, and I assume these are secured in a better way.

-Last question! I was going downhill pretty fast and realized I was about to miss my turn. I slammed on the brakes, and to my horror the bike skidded and jumped like 10 feet. I have no clue how I avoided crashing or falling over, but I'd like to not repeat this. I pressed both brakes at the same time, but is this normal behavior for a road bike?

seejohnbike

jeez, where to begin...

1: normally you can leave those there - they're to protect the stays from chainslap, and the head tube from rubbing cable housing. If the one on your stay nicks your pedal, you can take a razor or something and carefully excise that one part, keeping the rest of it on. It'll look far worse with a bunch of nicks/gouges in your chainstay after you've had the bike a while.

2: what groupset are you running? It might just be a technique thing, and you need to get used to clicking all the way up/down to get a full shift, instead of just trim adjustments. and are your shifters/derailleurs set up properly? (see number 3).

3: yes. google "derailleur adjustment" and I'm sure you'll find a bunch of videos/how to pages for such a task. worst case scenario, unless you throw the rear der. into the spokes while shifting, you're not really going to break anything, so you can always take it to the shop and have them look at it if you cant get it right. Also, because it's a new bike, you might just be able to take it to the shop and say "hey, it's starting to break in a little bit. Would you mind tightening everything up, and showing me how to do it so I can make adjustments in the future?"

4: deal with it. unfortunately, a bike is going to accumulate some minor abrasions. As long as you keep the bike clean of dirt and mud, minor imperfections only serve to boost the bike's character, and serve as a testament to how often you ride.

5: see number 4.

6: it's normal if you're doing it wrong. it's all about technique. You can stop fast, but if you just yank on the brakes, you're asking for trouble. Even if you want to stop fast, you have to be smooth with your braking technique. Also, make sure to scoot yourself back on the saddle for the most rearward center of gravity, to avoid flipping your 'ish. ride more, you'll figure it out.

Beaker

See above

Runner 1

Okay, thanks folks! It's good to know I didn't majorly screw anything up with the way I put the rear wheel back on. That's interesting about how you need to brake on these bikes though. I suppose it's because the bike is so light, and I'm sort of light too. With my (40 lb) Huffy, I just slammed on the brakes and it came to a halt.

And in my post above, I meant to say my shoes hit that plastic piece, not the pedals.