The Cult of CAAD...
11-04-10, 02:02 PM
#301
Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
There's no point in using "most" because the only exceptions to your point are the high end. madones, ulteams, etc.
that little correction being made though, I'm with you. Giant TCR advanced: Mainland China, Pinarello Dogma: Taiwan, Orbeas, S-Works, all but a handful of companies' top end frames are made in asia and that 25 year old thai woman lays carbon tube joints just as well as Jean Luc Cyfac.
that little correction being made though, I'm with you. Giant TCR advanced: Mainland China, Pinarello Dogma: Taiwan, Orbeas, S-Works, all but a handful of companies' top end frames are made in asia and that 25 year old thai woman lays carbon tube joints just as well as Jean Luc Cyfac.
11-04-10, 02:08 PM
#302
70mm4$!n!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: DC
Posts: 1,757
Bikes: Sworks E5, ritte Bosberg
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
justifying pedals that cost 1/3 of your bike? buy some nicer shifters, at least you'll notice the difference
11-04-10, 05:06 PM
#303
CAADdict
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: BF Heaven
Posts: 6,756
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-?
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Nope. Because all the parts are transferable to another frameset.
So that's $4000. of parts that I can keep forever until they wear out.
That's one of those "If you have to ask..." questions.
I have a bike that performs as well as bikes costing twice as much.
And in reality, it only cost me $550. (after selling off the original drivetrain).
Me, I either go entry-level or full-bore.
My next bike will be a HiMOD league rig.
And...I'm not a SRAM fan.
The only thing I'd keep from a SuperSix Red bike would be the wheelset.
Everything else would have to go.
Add another $3000. to that price
after I sell of the OEM parts maybe.
And the color. No likey.
I'd prefer the Dura Ace SuperSix (if I had to buy a SuperSix). JET BLACK! NICE!
Cost less, better groupset for me, but will need new wheels, cockpit, brakes.
Another $1000. to the price (after I sell off the take-off parts).
So, it jumps from $4500. to $5500. minimum.
See? They call it a Dura Ace bike, but only the shifters and derailleurs are DA.
Everything else is 2nd tier Ultegra or FSA.
Did I mention the crankset would have to go to match my bike's crankset?
So now, I'd have to get a crankset as well...in the immortal words
of Wiz and Iceman: "Mo' money, mo' money, mo' money!"
And I STILL wouldn't have the frameset I'd really want...the HiMOD.
Ok, get say a SuperSix...now build it with my specs.
How much is it going to cost you then? $6000. (parts: $2500.+ sell off stock parts - $500. + my build $4000.).
For 4G's, you're not going to get a plastic bike with a build anywhere near what my bike is rockin'.
You'll probably get something with a "mix" of mostly 2nd tier parts with a few bling
bits thrown in so that they can advertise "Dura Ace" or "Red" for that money.
And carbon isn't automatically always better.
I wouldn't buy a $4,000. then upgrade it.
By the time it's my definition of perfect, it'll be up to twice it's cost.
No matter what bike I get, I'm going to personalize it (cockpit, wheels, etc...),
unless I purchase something with a nearly complete spec (like a Madone 6.X).
A $4K bike (for me) will need a cockpit, wheelset, tires, brakepads, and drivetrain.
Then it turns out that I'll just be overpaying for a 2nd tier frameset.
Bikes like that make sense for someone who's happy with it "as is"
and will never regret never getting the top of the line frameset.
I didn't buy my CAAD to sell it or to reoup my cost on it.
When you buy a bike out of love, money don't matter.
My original plan was to buy the CAAD, build it up,
ride the hell out of it until I could afford a really nice carbon frameset,
then transfer all the parts over to the new framset.
Then, I was going to "down" build the CAAD into a more race oriented beater bike
(used 105 groupset, trainer wheels, etc...).
BUT! Now I'm NOT going to transfer the parts over because I've fallen in love with the CAAD!
(a common occurrence among the CAAD cult!)
And no matter what, it's well worth the $4500. I'll invest into it.
It will STILL be the best bang for the buck bike available.
So that's $4000. of parts that I can keep forever until they wear out.
I agree that it's not a waste as you can recoup much of that if you wanted to or move it to a new frame,
but I'm curious what the allure is.
but I'm curious what the allure is.
I have a bike that performs as well as bikes costing twice as much.
And in reality, it only cost me $550. (after selling off the original drivetrain).
For about the same price you could get a super6 with red.
My next bike will be a HiMOD league rig.
And...I'm not a SRAM fan.
The only thing I'd keep from a SuperSix Red bike would be the wheelset.
Everything else would have to go.
Add another $3000. to that price
after I sell of the OEM parts maybe.
And the color. No likey.
I'd prefer the Dura Ace SuperSix (if I had to buy a SuperSix). JET BLACK! NICE!
Cost less, better groupset for me, but will need new wheels, cockpit, brakes.
Another $1000. to the price (after I sell off the take-off parts).
So, it jumps from $4500. to $5500. minimum.
See? They call it a Dura Ace bike, but only the shifters and derailleurs are DA.
Everything else is 2nd tier Ultegra or FSA.
Did I mention the crankset would have to go to match my bike's crankset?
So now, I'd have to get a crankset as well...in the immortal words
of Wiz and Iceman: "Mo' money, mo' money, mo' money!"
And I STILL wouldn't have the frameset I'd really want...the HiMOD.
I'm getting a caad because I can get a good bike for the money I'm willing to spend but if I had 4Gs or more I'd probably be looking at a carbon something.
How much is it going to cost you then? $6000. (parts: $2500.+ sell off stock parts - $500. + my build $4000.).
For 4G's, you're not going to get a plastic bike with a build anywhere near what my bike is rockin'.
You'll probably get something with a "mix" of mostly 2nd tier parts with a few bling
bits thrown in so that they can advertise "Dura Ace" or "Red" for that money.
And carbon isn't automatically always better.
I wouldn't buy a $4,000. then upgrade it.
By the time it's my definition of perfect, it'll be up to twice it's cost.
No matter what bike I get, I'm going to personalize it (cockpit, wheels, etc...),
unless I purchase something with a nearly complete spec (like a Madone 6.X).
A $4K bike (for me) will need a cockpit, wheelset, tires, brakepads, and drivetrain.
Then it turns out that I'll just be overpaying for a 2nd tier frameset.
Bikes like that make sense for someone who's happy with it "as is"
and will never regret never getting the top of the line frameset.
I didn't buy my CAAD to sell it or to reoup my cost on it.
When you buy a bike out of love, money don't matter.
My original plan was to buy the CAAD, build it up,
ride the hell out of it until I could afford a really nice carbon frameset,
then transfer all the parts over to the new framset.
Then, I was going to "down" build the CAAD into a more race oriented beater bike
(used 105 groupset, trainer wheels, etc...).
BUT! Now I'm NOT going to transfer the parts over because I've fallen in love with the CAAD!
(a common occurrence among the CAAD cult!)
And no matter what, it's well worth the $4500. I'll invest into it.
It will STILL be the best bang for the buck bike available.
Last edited by 2ndGen; 11-04-10 at 05:42 PM.
11-04-10, 05:25 PM
#304
CAADdict
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: BF Heaven
Posts: 6,756
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-?
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
I can not speak for him but I can tell you why I am doing it. My bike is probably going to end up costing me in the 3500 dollar range. These components are going to be comparable, if not better than any 6k+ bike you'll find sitting at your lbs. The frame I am using, a caad10, is as light as most mid range carbon(3-5k bikes) but stiffer. This bike will be exactly what I want, because I am choosing the parts. Also if I decide down the rode I want to "upgrade" my frame I will have great components.
That's why I did it too.
I personalized my bike to my standards (not the manufacturer's).
So, it's custom tailored to my needs and DAMN does it look good!
(post pics when you get yours!)
Because not everyone has 4500 to dump right away. If I did, I'd be riding something completely different. This way I can gradually upgrade my CAAD, and maybe one day throw down some money for the BMC or Look frame I'd like... and I'll be done (yeah right, ill find something to upgrade.. lol).
I can get FORCE on a BMC Pro Machine for 4200.. but would I have as nice bars? or look keo carbon blades? and wheels?
Nope, I get 1700gram eastons... 100 grams less than the cheap rs10's I have stock on the CAAD.
I can get FORCE on a BMC Pro Machine for 4200.. but would I have as nice bars? or look keo carbon blades? and wheels?
Nope, I get 1700gram eastons... 100 grams less than the cheap rs10's I have stock on the CAAD.
BINGO II!
Exactly!
11-04-10, 05:34 PM
#305
CAADdict
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: BF Heaven
Posts: 6,756
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-?
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
I think every rider should get the best that they can afford of anything and if good
quality pedals that cost more than average are the best for one, by all means.
Remember, for some, not all pedals are compatible.
Some might not prefer certain styles.
Some pedals might cause the rider hotspots that others don't.
What if they're above average in cost? Does he suffer just to save a few bucks?
Maybe, jussssst maybe, he notices the difference with his pedals.
Last edited by 2ndGen; 11-04-10 at 08:00 PM.
11-04-10, 10:21 PM
#306
works for truffles
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,037
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just saw the Caad 10. That's some impressive looking tubing and construction. I know its mostly styling, but the way the seat stays wrap around to meet the TT is very cool. Looks great in white.
11-04-10, 10:24 PM
#307
Beer >> Sanity
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,449
Bikes: 2014 Evo DA2, 2010 Caad9-4, 2011 Synapse-4, 2013 CaadX-disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Me, I either go entry-level or full-bore.
My next bike will be a HiMOD league rig.
And...I'm not a SRAM fan.
The only thing I'd keep from a SuperSix Red bike would be the wheelset.
(snip)
And no matter what, it's well worth the $4500. I'll invest into it.
It will STILL be the best bang for the buck bike available.
My next bike will be a HiMOD league rig.
And...I'm not a SRAM fan.
The only thing I'd keep from a SuperSix Red bike would be the wheelset.
(snip)
And no matter what, it's well worth the $4500. I'll invest into it.
It will STILL be the best bang for the buck bike available.
11-05-10, 01:27 AM
#308
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 270
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Pedals are personal and should be purchased to please the rider.
I think every rider should get the best that they can afford of anything and if good
quality pedals that cost more than average are the best for one, by all means.
Remember, for some, not all pedals are compatible.
Some might not prefer certain styles.
Some pedals might cause the rider hotspots that others don't.
What if they're above average in cost? Does he suffer just to save a few bucks?
Maybe, jussssst maybe, he notices the difference with his pedals.
I think every rider should get the best that they can afford of anything and if good
quality pedals that cost more than average are the best for one, by all means.
Remember, for some, not all pedals are compatible.
Some might not prefer certain styles.
Some pedals might cause the rider hotspots that others don't.
What if they're above average in cost? Does he suffer just to save a few bucks?
Maybe, jussssst maybe, he notices the difference with his pedals.
New pedals for me are probably less than a few weeks away.. And again, may not get those or spend that much. I'm still not sure. Just threw them out there cause imo they are pretty badass pedals.
Think about the things you feel the most on your bike... saddle, hoods/bars, pedals?
11-05-10, 09:11 AM
#309
works for truffles
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,037
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
11-05-10, 04:02 PM
#310
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 270
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
11-05-10, 05:14 PM
#313
70mm4$!n!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: DC
Posts: 1,757
Bikes: Sworks E5, ritte Bosberg
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
something that will always get scuffed and for the most part function exactly the same regardless of spring or spindle material
11-05-10, 05:42 PM
#314
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
11-05-10, 05:45 PM
#315
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 270
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You are so bent about my pedal choice that I really haven't even made yet... lol.
When I move back to Baltimore, we should ride. I'll wear my cutoffs and we can talk pedals.
When I move back to Baltimore, we should ride. I'll wear my cutoffs and we can talk pedals.
11-05-10, 05:47 PM
#316
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 270
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If nobody made such a big deal about it, I wouldn't have even cared much less been an ass about it. But now I'm just trying to hate as much as possible.
Last edited by BmoreDrew; 11-05-10 at 05:54 PM.
11-05-10, 06:03 PM
#317
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
They look like badass pedals, though. For myself, though, I got some RXS First pedals when I got my frameset from CC:
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...734.228.0.html
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...734.228.0.html
11-05-10, 06:04 PM
#318
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 435
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sorry for the bad pic quality. Its been sitting for to long, but currently has Red crank, 3t doric seat post, and a deda zero100 stem. I just bought some dura ace wheels as well that should be here next week. Plans are Red shifters for zero loss, force derailers, and 3t bars. I am not really sure about saddle or brakes yet. I am mixed on getting red brakes, or just some light weight brakes like planet x.
11-05-10, 06:08 PM
#319
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 270
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
They look like badass pedals, though. For myself, though, I got some RXS First pedals when I got my frameset from CC:
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...734.228.0.html
https://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...734.228.0.html
11-05-10, 06:13 PM
#320
i got nothing.
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Cali Forn NI A (SoCal)
Posts: 5,723
Bikes: 13 BH G6 with SRAM Red
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
the pedals rock..
Hope the frame does too
__________________
14 days...
14 days...
11-05-10, 06:20 PM
#321
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
Then again, that's been the extent of my experience with clipless pedals. I don't even want to bother with Speedplay because I keep reading about guys having to keep the cleats clean (and the cleats themselves look like overbuilt monstrosities, honestly). I'm not that excited about Keo and SPD-SL either because they appear to rely on spring tension to keep the cleat in place. I think that if you pulled straight up on Time and CB pedals, the cleats will have to either break or pull the threaded inserts out of the shoe before popping out of the pedal. Plus, I haven't yet had to worry about where I walk with the Time cleats (I'll find out someday if they're as mudproof as CB).
11-05-10, 06:53 PM
#322
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Boone, North Carolina
Posts: 5,094
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-6 2014 Trek Domaine 5.9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Look Keo Carbons are great. You'll dig 'em on a CAAD
11-05-10, 07:13 PM
#323
Go, Dog. Go!
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 709
Bikes: '09 Fuji Team; '11 PedalForce QS3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sorry for the bad pic quality. Its been sitting for to long, but currently has Red crank, 3t doric seat post, and a deda zero100 stem. I just bought some dura ace wheels as well that should be here next week. Plans are Red shifters for zero loss, force derailers, and 3t bars. I am not really sure about saddle or brakes yet. I am mixed on getting red brakes, or just some light weight brakes like planet x.
11-05-10, 08:45 PM
#324
works for truffles
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,037
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts