The Cult of CAAD...
#6527
Still on training wheels
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NNJ
Posts: 44
Bikes: CAAD 10
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#6528
Senior Member
I have them on my CAAD7 and love them.
#6529
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NE
Posts: 49
Bikes: CAAD10-5, Flash 29er 1
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Love the pics! Mine's pretty much stock like yours except for the saddle. I like yours better though because it's got the white detail on the fork and seat+chain stay. I'm not totally against the dark grey that's on the 2012 models but I wish all the detail was either dark grey or like the 2011 and all white.
#6530
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 700
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD10 Team, Giant TCR
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If you're not into racing, and is just looking for a good wheelset for training or all-around riding, I recommend Fulcrum's Racing Quattro. Same price-point as the Boyd's, but a bit on the heavy side though (1800g). Oh, and they're made by Campagnolo
Last edited by e_guevara; 08-08-13 at 10:45 AM.
#6531
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
Posts: 367
Bikes: 2014 Boardman SLS 9.4 Di2, 2011 CAAD 10 4
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I actually use the CycleOps PowerCal. It's an HR monitor that estimates power output. No bike mods necessary. I know it's nowhere near the accuracy of the others listed but when you consider the $100 price, I'd say it gives you a reasonable estimate of your power. It's more accurate than you might think though. Here's a review DC rainmaker did for it:
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2012/11/c...th-review.html
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2012/11/c...th-review.html
#6532
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ
Posts: 367
Bikes: 2014 Boardman SLS 9.4 Di2, 2011 CAAD 10 4
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#6533
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Ok, so I went up to the LBS to drop off my bike to get the Premium + fork installed....figured theyd have a compression plug but they didnt and have to order one for it to work, no big deal, I can wait...but then they tell me my brand new ea70 stem wont work because it is straight pitch or something, I honestly dont even know what this means, he said I need an angled pitch or itll crush the carbon steerer....not sure why easton would make a brand new stem that would crush carbon with that being the material of choice nowadays. Can anyone help me figure how I should go about this...? LBS are all personal friends, they wouldnt tell me wrong.
#6535
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 700
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD10 Team, Giant TCR
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I don't know your friends, but I'm guessing they just didn't use the "right" words and did it the "right" way explaining it to you.
There is a version of the EA70 that is "straight" - the steerer clamp and the stem are at 90° with each other. When installed on the bike, it'll have an upward tilt relative to the ground (+17° on a 73° head tube angle). Most stems have an angle (84°/6° being the most common) that when installed will have a "flatter" angle (when used at -6° - 'flipped' down) for a more aggressive position, or "higher" (at 84° - 'flipped' up) for a more upright/relaxed riding position. Flipping the "straight" stem does nothing.
As for the compression plug, it is required for carbon steerers to avoid the stem clamp from crushing the steerer tube.
Never knew that the "wrong" angle of the stem could crush the steerer though.
Last edited by e_guevara; 08-08-13 at 06:43 PM.
#6536
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It will work.
I don't know your friends, but I'm guessing they just didn't use the "right" words and did it the "right" way explaining it to you.
There is a version of the EA70 that is "straight" - the steerer clamp and the stem are at 90° with each other. When installed on the bike, it'll have an upward tilt relative to the ground (+17° on a 73° head tube angle). Most stems have an angle (84°/6° being the most common) that when installed will have a "flatter" angle (when used at -6° - 'flipped' down) for a more aggressive position, or "higher" (at 84° - 'flipped' up) for a more upright/relaxed riding position. Flipping the "straight" stem does nothing.
As for the compression plug, it is required for carbon steerers to avoid the stem clamp from crushing the steerer tube.
Never knew that the "wrong" angle of the stem could crush the steerer though.
I don't know your friends, but I'm guessing they just didn't use the "right" words and did it the "right" way explaining it to you.
There is a version of the EA70 that is "straight" - the steerer clamp and the stem are at 90° with each other. When installed on the bike, it'll have an upward tilt relative to the ground (+17° on a 73° head tube angle). Most stems have an angle (84°/6° being the most common) that when installed will have a "flatter" angle (when used at -6° - 'flipped' down) for a more aggressive position, or "higher" (at 84° - 'flipped' up) for a more upright/relaxed riding position. Flipping the "straight" stem does nothing.
As for the compression plug, it is required for carbon steerers to avoid the stem clamp from crushing the steerer tube.
Never knew that the "wrong" angle of the stem could crush the steerer though.
#6537
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 23
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD 12
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these match your bike well and come in at 1527g https://www.boydcycling.com/30mm-rouleur/
I have them on my CAAD7 and love them.
I have them on my CAAD7 and love them.
#6538
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 662
Bikes: '12 CAAD10 3, '88 Raleigh Talon
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Looking forward to pics with the new wheels!
#6539
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 402
Bikes: CAAD10 Rival
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This is just my experience. You can continue now...
#6540
Still on training wheels
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NNJ
Posts: 44
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Haven't posted in this thread for years. This thread is like an upgrade mania! My CAAD10 is still stock and it hasn't stopped me from racing with it. This might be the wrong thread to post this, but I hope you guys realize that you do not need to upgrade anything on the CAAD10 since that bike is already beyond the abilities of almost everyone who posts here. And the stock RS10 wheels are very good. Sorry, but upgrading to cheap wheels just to save 300g doesn't really do much. Each of your water bottles weighs two times more than that. And if you look at that $400 Boyd, it's not really much more aero either since it's deeper than the RS10 by only 6mm! If you really have the bug to upgrade the wheels, at least save up and get a real upgrade that will make a difference - you'll be looking at $1000+ deep aero wheels. It still won't matter much though because unless you have the speed, those wheels won't give you any benefit. You'd be far better off investing in a trainer or even getting a bike fit.
This is just my experience. You can continue now...
This is just my experience. You can continue now...
#6541
Senior Member
lol...wow...not everyone uses the term "upgrade" the same though. Just because someone says they want an upgrade on wheels it doesn't mean they are searching for speed or some kind of phantom improvement. An upgrade for some people is just a stronger wheel. I weigh 225 and I couldn't keep RS10's or RS500' true. I broke many spokes on each. So, while my Boyd's didn't put me in the tour, it was an upgrade for me because they have never went out of true and I have never broken a spoke. Since you did bring weight into though, I dropped from 2100g to 1500. To some people upgrade just means appearance, and when they are spending their money that's as good a reason as any.
#6542
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Florida
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Haven't posted in this thread for years. This thread is like an upgrade mania! My CAAD10 is still stock and it hasn't stopped me from racing with it. This might be the wrong thread to post this, but I hope you guys realize that you do not need to upgrade anything on the CAAD10 since that bike is already beyond the abilities of almost everyone who posts here. And the stock RS10 wheels are very good. Sorry, but upgrading to cheap wheels just to save 300g doesn't really do much. Each of your water bottles weighs two times more than that. And if you look at that $400 Boyd, it's not really much more aero either since it's deeper than the RS10 by only 6mm! If you really have the bug to upgrade the wheels, at least save up and get a real upgrade that will make a difference - you'll be looking at $1000+ deep aero wheels. It still won't matter much though because unless you have the speed, those wheels won't give you any benefit. You'd be far better off investing in a trainer or even getting a bike fit.
This is just my experience. You can continue now...
This is just my experience. You can continue now...
#6543
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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If you're too heavy for the wheels to stay true, then of course it's an upgrade. But I think what ends up happening is a lot of people new to this sport get the wrong idea that somehow a wheel upgrade is necessary because it is going to benefit them somehow. I rarely see the rider weight as being the reason for upgrades around here and it seems more like the exception than the rule It would help others if that specific reasoning is mentioned. For me, the RS10s rarely loose their trueness, but yes, I'm only at 155 (still too fat for the sport, but getting there).
Oh, and as for upgrading for the looks, I won't touch that. As long as the person knows that's exactly what he's doing, at least he's informed. My impression is that it's not the case most of the time since members keep mentioning how much "better" ~$350 wheels are than the RS10s or similar stock wheels. I could be wrong, but at least that's the impression I get.
Oh, and as for upgrading for the looks, I won't touch that. As long as the person knows that's exactly what he's doing, at least he's informed. My impression is that it's not the case most of the time since members keep mentioning how much "better" ~$350 wheels are than the RS10s or similar stock wheels. I could be wrong, but at least that's the impression I get.
#6546
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NE
Posts: 49
Bikes: CAAD10-5, Flash 29er 1
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Yeah I'm kinda with excelsius here. I don't want to step on anybody's toes by knocking their weight or taste in wheels. I very much agree that everybody should be informed as to the specific reasons for buying anything not just bikes and components. If durability's your reason great! Doing it because it looks like everyone else is? I suppose if $400 is worth it to feel cool... However also got the impression upon joining this thread late last year that RS10's suck and you seriously need to look at new wheels asap. I thank those few that said otherwise. Mine are still going strong; only needed trued once after a pretty nasty spill on some freezing fog last December.
Rather, I think you could find a large number of other things that would be money much better spent.
Example: A powercal (mentioned a few posts ago) for $100. Or really if you're looking at the $400 range, how about getting the powercal ($100) + a garmin edge510 ($329 currently on strava's store) + a strava membership ($free but priceless). That's $429 VERY well spent. Really considering power training but on a tight budget? Lookup "Golden Cheetah v3" (also free).
Rather, I think you could find a large number of other things that would be money much better spent.
Example: A powercal (mentioned a few posts ago) for $100. Or really if you're looking at the $400 range, how about getting the powercal ($100) + a garmin edge510 ($329 currently on strava's store) + a strava membership ($free but priceless). That's $429 VERY well spent. Really considering power training but on a tight budget? Lookup "Golden Cheetah v3" (also free).
#6547
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NE
Posts: 49
Bikes: CAAD10-5, Flash 29er 1
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