Bought a used road bike to start with...
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Bought a used road bike to start with...
Okay, a few things.
1. I am a poor excuse for a road cyclist. I am beyond newbie, I am realizing, as my years on the mountain bike have removed me from all things road. 2. I have a lot of dumb questions, please bear with me.
A beautiful road bike was not in the budget and I'm sick of riding my knobbies on the road. So I bought a used Schwinn Sprint, Giant version 1985, and I realize its not the lightest nor anywhere near the best, but it'll have to do and its lighter than my mountain bike even with the current steel wheels.
So I need new wheels and tires, and I'd like to buy alloy.
That is the extent of my knowledge. How do I measure for new tires and how do I know what to get? Obviously I'm not looking for top of the line, just something to get me through a year or two and also something I can use on the trainer for the winter.
I measured from top of tire to bottom of tire (top of rubber to ground) and its 27". Is that the size, or do I literally measure top of rim to bottom of rim? Because then I get an odd size...and 27" is a size.
Also, then what do I get for the rubber part, size wise?
Thank you!
1. I am a poor excuse for a road cyclist. I am beyond newbie, I am realizing, as my years on the mountain bike have removed me from all things road. 2. I have a lot of dumb questions, please bear with me.
A beautiful road bike was not in the budget and I'm sick of riding my knobbies on the road. So I bought a used Schwinn Sprint, Giant version 1985, and I realize its not the lightest nor anywhere near the best, but it'll have to do and its lighter than my mountain bike even with the current steel wheels.
So I need new wheels and tires, and I'd like to buy alloy.
That is the extent of my knowledge. How do I measure for new tires and how do I know what to get? Obviously I'm not looking for top of the line, just something to get me through a year or two and also something I can use on the trainer for the winter.
I measured from top of tire to bottom of tire (top of rubber to ground) and its 27". Is that the size, or do I literally measure top of rim to bottom of rim? Because then I get an odd size...and 27" is a size.
Also, then what do I get for the rubber part, size wise?
Thank you!
#2
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They should be 700c tires. I use the Vittorina Rubino Pro Slick, they're fairly inexpensive and have been good tires to me so far.
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Is there a label on the tires that it currently has? That's the best way. (the label may not be very obvious, it may just be raised in the rubber itself)
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I like all the Fulcrum wheels, so I would look at these. Fulcrum Racing 7 is the low end and Racing 5 is the next in line (very decent wheels!). Once you upgrade the frame you can take the wheels to the new one.
I have Reynolds wheels myself, but they are generally more expensive to start with. As for the tires, it depends a bit on your riding habit. Go for the 25 (x700) size in case you like to ride on some gravel paths in addition to pavement. They are slightly more comfortable than the narrower tires (23). Conti makes a lot of good tires. Just check their site and the shops to choose according to your budget.
I have Reynolds wheels myself, but they are generally more expensive to start with. As for the tires, it depends a bit on your riding habit. Go for the 25 (x700) size in case you like to ride on some gravel paths in addition to pavement. They are slightly more comfortable than the narrower tires (23). Conti makes a lot of good tires. Just check their site and the shops to choose according to your budget.
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I don't see a label anywhere, but I tell you I would not be surprised if the tires were the originals on the bike, as they look just like the stock picture in the catalogs and are worn in the wrong places, from sitting and not riding, like tire rot.
They aren't so bad that you can't ride them, though, and they are still true, although the front one has a weight on it on one of the spokes so I think they did have some problems the little they rode this bike.
I will look up the ones mentioned above - can I buy tires and rims together or do they always come separate? And one more stupid question - do I need three things or two? There is a wheel, rubber, and a tube, right?
They aren't so bad that you can't ride them, though, and they are still true, although the front one has a weight on it on one of the spokes so I think they did have some problems the little they rode this bike.
I will look up the ones mentioned above - can I buy tires and rims together or do they always come separate? And one more stupid question - do I need three things or two? There is a wheel, rubber, and a tube, right?
#6
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I don't see a label anywhere, but I tell you I would not be surprised if the tires were the originals on the bike, as they look just like the stock picture in the catalogs and are worn in the wrong places, from sitting and not riding, like tire rot.
They aren't so bad that you can't ride them, though, and they are still true, although the front one has a weight on it on one of the spokes so I think they did have some problems the little they rode this bike.
I will look up the ones mentioned above - can I buy tires and rims together or do they always come separate? And one more stupid question - do I need three things or two? There is a wheel, rubber, and a tube, right?
They aren't so bad that you can't ride them, though, and they are still true, although the front one has a weight on it on one of the spokes so I think they did have some problems the little they rode this bike.
I will look up the ones mentioned above - can I buy tires and rims together or do they always come separate? And one more stupid question - do I need three things or two? There is a wheel, rubber, and a tube, right?
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You say the front wheel as a weight on a spoke. I'll bet dimes to dollars that it's a magnet for a speedometer. Check if it's magnetic.
#8
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I think your Sprint probably has 27" tires and wheels to match. If you want to switch to the more common, modern 700c size you can do it, but you will also need new longer reach brakes to accommodate the slightly smaller rim size.
If you just want new alloy wheels, this would work:
https://www.bicyclewheels.com/merchan...egory_Code=R27
but for that price you can probably find a whole bike on craigslist that already has alloy rims and what not. You may find something like what I linked used on eBay for less.
I would recommend doing as little as possible to your current bike other than riding it. Save up maybe $150-200 and get yourself a used 80's bike that has 700c tires, a chromoly frame, alloy rims and bars and has 7 speeds. While still not modern, that type of bike will suit you fine for anything but racing while being cheap and easy to maintain.
If you just want new alloy wheels, this would work:
https://www.bicyclewheels.com/merchan...egory_Code=R27
but for that price you can probably find a whole bike on craigslist that already has alloy rims and what not. You may find something like what I linked used on eBay for less.
I would recommend doing as little as possible to your current bike other than riding it. Save up maybe $150-200 and get yourself a used 80's bike that has 700c tires, a chromoly frame, alloy rims and bars and has 7 speeds. While still not modern, that type of bike will suit you fine for anything but racing while being cheap and easy to maintain.
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Sounds like you've got an older 10 speed 27" wheeled bike.
I've used these tires in the 700c form.
https://www.performancebike.com/bikes...3_20000_400235
They're decent tires that are cheap. The kevlar ones provide a bit more protection from flats. Other than new tires, I wouldn't recommend trying to upgrade the bike too much. canam73 is right. A 14 speed bike would be better. I used to have an older 1989 Bianchi that put many miles on. It was a reliable bike that was light. It worked really well. Ten speed bikes are a bit more of a hassle to work on.
I've used these tires in the 700c form.
https://www.performancebike.com/bikes...3_20000_400235
They're decent tires that are cheap. The kevlar ones provide a bit more protection from flats. Other than new tires, I wouldn't recommend trying to upgrade the bike too much. canam73 is right. A 14 speed bike would be better. I used to have an older 1989 Bianchi that put many miles on. It was a reliable bike that was light. It worked really well. Ten speed bikes are a bit more of a hassle to work on.
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A 1985 Schwinn likely has a 5 or 6 speed freewheel with 120 or 126 spacing. A cassette wheel won't work without some major upgrades.
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Thanks for all the advice! I think I'm going to go with keeping this for the trainer, as its working nicely for that purpose, and hopefully by spring just buy a decent road bike, even if used. In the meantime, winter makes the mountain bike work just fine for outdoor use, and the trainer is keeping me hopping inside.
Also, I did see they are the 27" tires, its on the rim, I just couldn't find it. And the thing on the front tire is magnetic! You guys sure know your stuff...so you're stuck with me. Ha!
Also, I did see they are the 27" tires, its on the rim, I just couldn't find it. And the thing on the front tire is magnetic! You guys sure know your stuff...so you're stuck with me. Ha!
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As others have said I would not waste any money by buying new wheels for that bike maybe new cheap tires (any brand just the cheapest). Ride that bike threw the winter and save fore a more modern road bike. They have came a long way since then. You don't have to spend thousands to get a decent bike but I would try to have $400-500 at least. If you are patient you will find a good deal on a decent bike. I would at least try to get an 8sp (in rear) bike since the can be easily upgraded to 9 or 10sp if u decide u want to later on. Good luck and welcome to the forum. Feel free to ask more questions and be sure to read up on past forum post I'm sure you will learn a lot if you do.
Last edited by M_FactorX19; 11-25-10 at 11:34 AM.
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Continental's Ultra Gatorskin comes in a 27" size. Nashbar has them for $45 each.
If you'll be riding more than a few miles from home, it'd be a good idea to have tire levers, a spare tube, and either a small pump or a CO2 pump and cartridge. These can be stuffed into a small saddle bag - mounts under the saddle.
If you'll be riding more than a few miles from home, it'd be a good idea to have tire levers, a spare tube, and either a small pump or a CO2 pump and cartridge. These can be stuffed into a small saddle bag - mounts under the saddle.
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or you could have a shop lace some 700c rims on to your hubs and then you'd have:
-new rims
-new spokes
-can choose whatever tire you want.
-new rims
-new spokes
-can choose whatever tire you want.
#15
You gonna eat that?
Best way to go. A Sprint really is a low-end bike. But on a trainer... sure.
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I agree with the advice/conclusions made above. Don't get new wheels, you will run into problems especially with the rear. OTOH getting a new set of tires (27 inch not 700c) is possibly worthwhile.
Ride it like crazy and save up for an entry level bike when you can afford it....
Plan to budget about 1000 bucks if you can swing it. I know it sounds like a lot but if you are going to be riding frequently it's worth it.
PS As an afterthought, you might want to keep your eyes open for used alloy wheels on craigslist from the same time period, if they are dirt cheap you could consider them. But don't waste too much $$$ on this bike, save for the next one.
Ride it like crazy and save up for an entry level bike when you can afford it....
Plan to budget about 1000 bucks if you can swing it. I know it sounds like a lot but if you are going to be riding frequently it's worth it.
PS As an afterthought, you might want to keep your eyes open for used alloy wheels on craigslist from the same time period, if they are dirt cheap you could consider them. But don't waste too much $$$ on this bike, save for the next one.
Last edited by datlas; 11-25-10 at 03:28 PM.
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For the money, I'd have bought a Lemond steel bike. With the Reynolds 853 frame, they're not very expensive and make a good beginner bike. In their day, they used to be high end.
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If you need new tires to be able to ride it (even on a trainer) then purchase one or 2 and mount them up. If you want to do new wheels- because your existing ones are breaking spokes, or can't be trued up (not because you want new wheels on that old of a bike), then look on Ebay for someone selling their old wheels that are in good condition. As others have stated, as soon as you start down the new lighter weight 700C wheels that are common, you will run into issues of the rear hub fitting into the older frames as well as probably the gear set not being a cassette - but having a screw on gear cluster. Save the money on any major upgrades for a new (or newer to you used) bike that meets your needs and fits right.
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Thanks for all the advice! I think I'm going to go with keeping this for the trainer, as its working nicely for that purpose, and hopefully by spring just buy a decent road bike, even if used. In the meantime, winter makes the mountain bike work just fine for outdoor use, and the trainer is keeping me hopping inside.
Also, I did see they are the 27" tires, its on the rim, I just couldn't find it. And the thing on the front tire is magnetic! You guys sure know your stuff...so you're stuck with me. Ha!
Also, I did see they are the 27" tires, its on the rim, I just couldn't find it. And the thing on the front tire is magnetic! You guys sure know your stuff...so you're stuck with me. Ha!
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