what special tools are needed for a Campy build?
#1
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what special tools are needed for a Campy build?
I have all the tools necessary to build a bike with SRAM and Shimano (allen keys, torque wrench, cassette tool, BB cup tool, etc.
I will be helping a friend build a bike with 2010 Campy (super record), and I've heard there are special tools needed - what do i need?
I will be helping a friend build a bike with 2010 Campy (super record), and I've heard there are special tools needed - what do i need?
#2
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The outboard BB bearing cups use the same tool as Shimano. You need the cassette lockring tool. Park makes one for $7. If you use the Campy chain, you'll at least need the pin flaring tool. You can install the joining pin and break the chain with most decent quality 10 speed tools, but it does require some extra effort without the Campy tool that holds both ends of the chain together. You must not have any tension on the chain while pushing the pin into place, or the pin will try to go in crooked and it will be damaged. See the Park Tool website for more info.
Buy a T25 torx screwdriver for clamping the ergo lever to the handlebar. Insert the tool under the brake hood, from the front side. Pull the back edge of the brake hood forward to expose the clamp nut, so you can guide the end of the driver into the nut.
You'll need a 10mm hext bit and a short extension to fit your torque wrench, for tightening the UT crank center fixing bolt.
Do not use the loctite method of installing the cups, just grease the threads and torque the cups to 35Nm. Also grease the inside of the cups. You must remove any paint from the faces of the BB shell, measure the shell width to insure it's 67.2-68.8mm and verify that the faces of the BB shell are square to the threads (or have the BB shell faced). I install the cups and tighten them just enough to contact a .010 inch feeler gage and then use .008-.012 inch gages to look for hihg or low spots. I've never owned a frame that need facing.
https://www.lickbike.com/productpage....B='2489-00'
https://www.lickbike.com/productpage....B='2434-00'
Buy a T25 torx screwdriver for clamping the ergo lever to the handlebar. Insert the tool under the brake hood, from the front side. Pull the back edge of the brake hood forward to expose the clamp nut, so you can guide the end of the driver into the nut.
You'll need a 10mm hext bit and a short extension to fit your torque wrench, for tightening the UT crank center fixing bolt.
Do not use the loctite method of installing the cups, just grease the threads and torque the cups to 35Nm. Also grease the inside of the cups. You must remove any paint from the faces of the BB shell, measure the shell width to insure it's 67.2-68.8mm and verify that the faces of the BB shell are square to the threads (or have the BB shell faced). I install the cups and tighten them just enough to contact a .010 inch feeler gage and then use .008-.012 inch gages to look for hihg or low spots. I've never owned a frame that need facing.
https://www.lickbike.com/productpage....B='2489-00'
https://www.lickbike.com/productpage....B='2434-00'
#3
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the loctite method seems strange to me. if things are properly torqued & it's an english-threaded bb, why would anyone use loctite? i don't plan on using it.
measure the shell width to insure it's 67.2-68.8mm and verify that the faces of the BB shell are square to the threads (or have the BB shell faced).
also, regarding the 10mm hex for the crank bolt. I just watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/user/11campy#p/a/u/1/FT4qzevaOWo
and i can see why you need the extender. that's pretty annoying, but i'm glad you pointed it out.
Thanks for the info.
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TurboJ
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