Wheel does not spin freely on bike; spins fine off bike
12-24-10, 09:44 AM
#27
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ah, a Xero XR-1. My wife uses those. Good wheel if you're under 140 lbs, and with the decals removed they are under 1500 grams.
Yep, in that case my rubber boot theory isn't it, but I concur with the bearing pre-load. Loosen those nuts. If they were tightened too much, the bearings may actually need replacing to restore full smoothness.
Yep, in that case my rubber boot theory isn't it, but I concur with the bearing pre-load. Loosen those nuts. If they were tightened too much, the bearings may actually need replacing to restore full smoothness.
12-24-10, 01:04 PM
#28
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If tightening a QR on perfectly true fork ends can tighten the cones, I’d like to know where this decreased gap is accounted for. Is the axle being made shorter? No. Are the cones moving along the axle threads? No. Are the steel cones somehow deforming from normal skewer clamping? Unlikely.
Every time the OP's issue happened to me it was traced to slightly out of true fork ends or drop outs. Look at the outsides of the ends, not just the inside. It could also be out of round skewer ends, causing flex as it is tightened.
Loosing the cones before installing the wheel is just compensating for the real issue.
Every time the OP's issue happened to me it was traced to slightly out of true fork ends or drop outs. Look at the outsides of the ends, not just the inside. It could also be out of round skewer ends, causing flex as it is tightened.
Loosing the cones before installing the wheel is just compensating for the real issue.
The axle is "made shorter."
It is common practice, per post #10, to leave a smidge of play in the bearings that is taken up when the wheel is mounted to the frame.
It is also common lbs practice to adjust all play out of the bearings, then mount the wheel. This practice leads to accelerated wear, as the assembly is "too tight."
Irrefutable this is. Sorry, AlmostTrick, your assertions are incorrect.
Last edited by Spiduhman; 12-24-10 at 01:07 PM. Reason: is/are
12-24-10, 01:14 PM
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See Sheldon:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/cone-adjustment.html
Given that the more sturdy axles won't compress as much as the old rolled steel ones, wheel bearing play "shortens up" when mounted on the bike, period.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/cone-adjustment.html
Given that the more sturdy axles won't compress as much as the old rolled steel ones, wheel bearing play "shortens up" when mounted on the bike, period.
Last edited by Spiduhman; 12-24-10 at 01:19 PM.
12-25-10, 10:10 AM
#31
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See Sheldon:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/cone-adjustment.html
Given that the more sturdy axles won't compress as much as the old rolled steel ones, wheel bearing play "shortens up" when mounted on the bike, period.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/cone-adjustment.html
Given that the more sturdy axles won't compress as much as the old rolled steel ones, wheel bearing play "shortens up" when mounted on the bike, period.
12-27-10, 11:18 PM
#32
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Is the preload adjustable for hubs with cartridge bearings?
Thanks
Thanks
12-27-10, 11:34 PM
#33
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If tightening a QR on perfectly true fork ends can tighten the cones, I’d like to know where this decreased gap is accounted for. Is the axle being made shorter? No. Are the cones moving along the axle threads? No. Are the steel cones somehow deforming from normal skewer clamping? Unlikely.
Every time the OP's issue happened to me it was traced to slightly out of true fork ends or drop outs. Look at the outsides of the ends, not just the inside. It could also be out of round skewer ends, causing flex as it is tightened.
Loosing the cones before installing the wheel is just compensating for the real issue.
Every time the OP's issue happened to me it was traced to slightly out of true fork ends or drop outs. Look at the outsides of the ends, not just the inside. It could also be out of round skewer ends, causing flex as it is tightened.
Loosing the cones before installing the wheel is just compensating for the real issue.
1. with QR loose, wiggle axle radially & axially relative to hub and feel for clearance
2. place 2-3 thick washers over end of axle so their surface is outside of the end of the axle
3. clamp down the QR tight as if the wheel was in between dropouts.
4. feel for play at between the axle & hub-shell again, it will be different than in #1.
The separated washers eliminates any coupling between the sides (like bent dropout ends). This leaves only compressive-force from QR as being the before & after change. A QR can exert around 500-1000lbs of compressive force on the axle depending upon the cam design.
2. place 2-3 thick washers over end of axle so their surface is outside of the end of the axle
3. clamp down the QR tight as if the wheel was in between dropouts.
4. feel for play at between the axle & hub-shell again, it will be different than in #1.
Last edited by DannoXYZ; 12-27-10 at 11:38 PM.
12-27-10, 11:38 PM
#34
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Typically not. If you have cartridge bearings you have to be very careful about re-assembling the hub properly. The lateral position of the axle and spacing between the two bearings is critical. Numerous designs exist to adjust this. Some are collars with locking pinch-bolts. Others have shoulders that are built into the axle itself. Others have a spacer and shims between the axles. In the end, the QR must only squeeze the axle and not the bearings. If the hub was disassembled, it may not have been re-assembled in the proper order.
What model hubs are these?
What model hubs are these?
12-28-10, 12:01 AM
#35
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Typically not. If you have cartridge bearings you have to be very careful about re-assembling the hub properly. The lateral position of the axle and spacing between the two bearings is critical. Numerous designs exist to adjust this. Some are collars with locking pinch-bolts. Others have shoulders that are built into the axle itself. Others have a spacer and shims between the axles. In the end, the QR must only squeeze the axle and not the bearings. If the hub was disassembled, it may not have been re-assembled in the proper order.
What model hubs are these?
What model hubs are these?
+1
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12-28-10, 10:00 AM
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12-28-10, 02:48 PM
#38
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I took the wheel along with a fork to another shop. The mechanic looked at it and said there's not much to adjust, showing it's basically how tight I want the dust-cap nut to be on top of the cartridge bearings. Took it back home and tried to remove that nut on the other side of the axle but wasn't able to. So I tightened the loose nut as minimally as possible and, now, when mounted on the fork, the wheel spins freely. Yay! Thanks again for all the suggestions.
12-28-10, 04:16 PM
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Can't tell from the small pictures but i know that the RB68 model uses an axle with shoulders to preserve the spacing. Keep an eye on it....run it now and see if it develops lateral play after riding for a while. I have a feeling one of your bearings isn't set in all the way.
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06-10-11 08:44 AM
