Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-28-11, 02:07 PM   #1
hkboy313
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hkboy313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: texas
Bikes: caad9
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Wheelset / hub bearing question

im looking at a few sets...

zipp 101 - little too expensive

shimano rs80 - price range

rol wheels d'huez - price range


besides looking at price i also wonder liked the fact all were laterally stiff, not sure which is best in comparison. weight is ok for me. want a good all-around pair, for flats/hills... pot holes in nyc...

the hubs im not to sure which is best at least for the wheels im considering...shimano has the ultegra hubs? rol wheels have their own brand and zipp i dont know. im wondering if each hub makes a difference in the amount of bearings in each hub? rol wheels said they have 2 front and 4 rear. zipp replied to me 2 in front hub, 2 in rear hub, 2 in free hub...all sealed tight? which has the least rolling resistance (im assuming all are about the same...?)

my current set is the stock shimano rs10 came with my caad9. im wondering how many bears are in those hubs and if it will make any difference? either noise or rotational quality? there is an issue but only random times while pedaling slow there will be a skip in the pedal followed by a crack noise. i had this issue before with my crap set on another bike. i also hear another guy's bike do it...its not the BB when i rotated it with the chain off its completely silent. maybe its my rear hub?

thanks for taking the time to read..any suggestions or opinions are helpful.
hkboy313 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-11, 02:21 PM   #2
Elvo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Orange County, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 3,281
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
You won't be able to notice the difference.
Elvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 06:18 AM   #3
hkboy313
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hkboy313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: texas
Bikes: caad9
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
oh ok? i guess nobody has these wheelsets to compare?
hkboy313 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 06:43 AM   #4
dwellman
Godbotherer
 
dwellman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hermitage, TN
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)
Posts: 1,321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Under ideal circumstances you shouldn't notice a difference in the hub whilst on the bike. Are the WH-RS10 inadequate?
dwellman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 07:17 AM   #5
hkboy313
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hkboy313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: texas
Bikes: caad9
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
i guess my main concern was a comparison of the wheels. the afterthought only for the hubs...
hkboy313 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 07:18 AM   #6
hkboy313
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hkboy313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: texas
Bikes: caad9
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
wheels are good but experience lots of lateral movement.
hkboy313 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 07:50 AM   #7
igknighted
Senior Member
 
igknighted's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somerville, MA
Bikes:
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hkboy313 View Post
wheels are good but experience lots of lateral movement.
I read this quickly and thought you said that you were experiencing "lots of rotational movement"... which would be the point, yes?
igknighted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 07:54 AM   #8
hkboy313
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hkboy313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: texas
Bikes: caad9
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by igknighted View Post
I read this quickly and thought you said that you were experiencing "lots of rotational movement"... which would be the point, yes?
no idea. just when i push it hard the wheels rubs on brake pads. im just asking for an opinion, not to be too technical...
hkboy313 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 08:18 AM   #9
canam73
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Haunchyville
Bikes:
Posts: 6,375
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hkboy313 View Post
no idea. just when i push it hard the wheels rubs on brake pads. im just asking for an opinion, not to be too technical...
Are you sure it's the wheel and not the frame flexing?
canam73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 08:25 AM   #10
MegaTom
Senior Member
 
MegaTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix SL3, Lynskey Cooper CX
Posts: 2,012
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I don't know anything about the wheels you are asking about, but perhaps your current set just needs a little TLC in the form of cone adjustment and a bit of truing?

My thoughts on hubs:

In general, unless you're an über weight-weenie or dedicated racer, you won't notice much difference between the different hubs while you are riding on them; but their differences will be apparent months or years down the line when some are all grimy on the inside and no longer rolling as smoothly as they can, while others are clean, the grease is still good, and are as smooth as they day the wheel was built. YMMV....... this comes from my only experience in road hubs with the cheap-o's that came on my previous bike's stock wheels, and the Dura-Ace hubs that I had built into my upgraded wheels. After 1 year on the stock wheels, you could hear the grit grinding around the bearings (not while riding, but when spinning the wheels in your hands).... 2 years on the Dura-Ace hubs, you'd never know their age nor have any idea of the number of miles they've been ridden.
MegaTom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 08:28 AM   #11
valleycyclist
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: California
Bikes:
Posts: 324
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
All of the wheels you have on the list have a low spoke count. How much do you weigh?

To increase lateral stiffness you can use hubs that have wider flange spacing. Alchemy and White Industries build into stiff wheels. Most other hub designs are compromised when using a Shimano freehub body in order to also be compatible with Campagnolo and have a greater spoke tension imbalance on the rear hub. The number and thickness of the spokes also contributes to stiffness.
valleycyclist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 08:33 AM   #12
hkboy313
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hkboy313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: texas
Bikes: caad9
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
i have a caad9 2010 frame. i think its pretty stiff as far as my experience and reviews go.. i weight in about 130lb...not much weight.

after my ride i spin both my wheels and look, both true as can be. i could brake as close as i could and still no rub.

i could swap out a new hub with my current one? sound width factor in this decision? i also dont know how to build a wheel...how much would it be to do this at a lbs?
hkboy313 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 06:48 PM   #13
MegaTom
Senior Member
 
MegaTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix SL3, Lynskey Cooper CX
Posts: 2,012
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
When the wheel is tightly clamped to the bike and stationary on the ground, are you able to jiggle it side-to-side at all?
MegaTom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-11, 07:56 PM   #14
igknighted
Senior Member
 
igknighted's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somerville, MA
Bikes:
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hkboy313 View Post
no idea. just when i push it hard the wheels rubs on brake pads. im just asking for an opinion, not to be too technical...
No worries... I was making a joke (the point of a wheel is to rotate, right?).

As for the issue... it could be the hub just needs to be tightened up, some cone wrenches can do that pretty quick (although if they are loose bearings and not sealed cartridge you may want to check if any dirt got in, and repack them while you are in there). Another alternative, and I just crossed this bridge myself (also with a cannondale, ironically), is that the fork drop-out is loose. I kept adjusting my hub and it kept feeling loose, then I realized it was the dropout itself. If this is your problem, get in touch with your dealer as it could be a warranty claim.
igknighted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-11, 06:43 AM   #15
dwellman
Godbotherer
 
dwellman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hermitage, TN
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)
Posts: 1,321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'm with igknighted--I was thinking that your wheel choices could probably end up being not much different, if not, worse than what you're currently on. . . if we don't know exactly what the deal is with your current wheels. Heck they could even be loose in the dropouts. They always say you should have enoud closing force to leave an indentation in your hand. . . exposed cam skewers need a bit more.

Last edited by dwellman; 04-30-11 at 06:46 AM.
dwellman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-11, 09:51 AM   #16
hkboy313
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
hkboy313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: texas
Bikes: caad9
Posts: 386
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwellman View Post
I'm with igknighted--I was thinking that your wheel choices could probably end up being not much different, if not, worse than what you're currently on. . . if we don't know exactly what the deal is with your current wheels. Heck they could even be loose in the dropouts. They always say you should have enoud closing force to leave an indentation in your hand. . . exposed cam skewers need a bit more.
i def. find that possible. only because it has happened. i brought it to my lbs and guy said my dropouts were loose...even before i went i tried forcing it side to side without problems/noise. he showed me how to 'lock' a skewer on tightly and thats what i did. i just dont want to hurt the carbon fork thats on it right now...later on the road it sends me flying into a death trap...i've tightened it where a dent was left on my hand...

the hubs are not sealed. i have no knowledge in dissembling a hub nor would i even try its pretty new. i got over 1k on it. i ride it with care too (not deliberately on rough dirt roads/ potholes, jumping curbs or in water puddles if i can help it)
hkboy313 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-11, 02:32 PM   #17
igknighted
Senior Member
 
igknighted's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Somerville, MA
Bikes:
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Have you talked with your mechanic about the issue? He/she may be able to identify exactly what's going on.
igknighted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-11, 04:38 PM   #18
dwellman
Godbotherer
 
dwellman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hermitage, TN
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)
Posts: 1,321
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Overhauling a hub is. . relatively easy. Need a 13 (front) or 15mm (rear) cone wrench. . an open end wrench (15, 16, or 17 mm), magnet on a stick, clean rag, waterproof grease, and 20 3/16 front and 18 1/4 bearings for the rear. . . after that, watch this:

[video]http://blip.tv/play/gfYw2aI+AA[/video]

But yeah, you should talk to a real live person about this. . . seems something that needs hands on inspection.
dwellman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:05 PM.