2011 Sram Force Groupset
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2011 Sram Force Groupset
I have a few questions concerning the groupset.
First is, with the trimming being moved to the big ring, is it possible to use the big ring with the largest cog?
How can I tell the difference between the 2011 and 2010 model? (physically and the manufacturing package)
Is it worth it if I can get the Shifters, crankset(BB30), derailleurs, and ceramic bearings for $700?
First is, with the trimming being moved to the big ring, is it possible to use the big ring with the largest cog?
How can I tell the difference between the 2011 and 2010 model? (physically and the manufacturing package)
Is it worth it if I can get the Shifters, crankset(BB30), derailleurs, and ceramic bearings for $700?
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big big and small small are no no's.
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2010 force is the same as 2011
I can hit the entire range of my coges 50-34/11-25 without having to use trim. Big-big & small-small are just fine.
I can hit the entire range of my coges 50-34/11-25 without having to use trim. Big-big & small-small are just fine.
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I have Apex, but it has trim on the big ring too. BIG-BIG is fine, although there's a little more friction than with a straight chain. It's perfectly acceptable if you just need to get over a small hill and don't want to go to the small chainring. If I'm on any of the 2-3 largest cogs while in the big chainring, I'll use the trim to get rid of the small amount of front derailleur rub.
I haven't been able to use SMALL-SMALL because the chain starts to rub too much against the side of the big chainring, as well as the derailleur (I think). That said, BIG-BIG is a lot more useful and practical than SMALL-SMALL.
I haven't been able to use SMALL-SMALL because the chain starts to rub too much against the side of the big chainring, as well as the derailleur (I think). That said, BIG-BIG is a lot more useful and practical than SMALL-SMALL.
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I have Apex, but it has trim on the big ring too. BIG-BIG is fine, although there's a little more friction than with a straight chain. It's perfectly acceptable if you just need to get over a small hill and don't want to go to the small chainring. If I'm on any of the 2-3 largest cogs while in the big chainring, I'll use the trim to get rid of the small amount of front derailleur rub.
I haven't been able to use SMALL-SMALL because the chain starts to rub too much against the side of the big chainring, as well as the derailleur (I think). That said, BIG-BIG is a lot more useful and practical than SMALL-SMALL.
I haven't been able to use SMALL-SMALL because the chain starts to rub too much against the side of the big chainring, as well as the derailleur (I think). That said, BIG-BIG is a lot more useful and practical than SMALL-SMALL.
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Thanks for the info. I only use the BIG - BIG, definitely not the SMALL - SMALL.
Now I just need to figure out how to tell the difference between the 2011 and 2010 model. Don't care if there's no changes between the two. Just need to know how to identify the year of the model.
And finally, who thinks the price I'm being offered is worth the money?
Now I just need to figure out how to tell the difference between the 2011 and 2010 model. Don't care if there's no changes between the two. Just need to know how to identify the year of the model.
And finally, who thinks the price I'm being offered is worth the money?
#8
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2010 and 2011 are identical except for the redesigned bottom bracket. Shell is different with a redesigned seal. I paid $850 otd for my 11' group (shifters, brakes, crank, standard BB, FD, RD, cassette, and chain.
looks like your missing the cassette, brakes, and chain.
looks like your missing the cassette, brakes, and chain.
#10
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^^^yes, small - small and the chain rubs the big chain ring. Big - big I use pretty often for short durations.
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Anyway, is there a way to tell if the part is 2011 or 2010? Does it say on the part itself and/or the retail packaging?
Yea, $700 brand new. I opted out on the chain, brakes, and cassette because I have my own. I guess there's no change since I'm using the BB30 version, I'd assume.
Yea, $700 brand new. I opted out on the chain, brakes, and cassette because I have my own. I guess there's no change since I'm using the BB30 version, I'd assume.
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Skip the ceramic bearings and get the new chain, cassette, and brakes. There's a huge price difference between the ceramic and non ceramic bottom brackets. . .and going ceramic is definitely not worth paying extra.
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Ok, let's just say I decide not to purchase the ceramic bearings, how much do you think I should ask to take off the $700 from my LBS?
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Well, full retail price the ceramic bottom bracket goes for $195 and the regular force bottom bracket is $35. It's crazy how much they charge for a ceramic bottom bracket especially when there is no real gains to be made.
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To the OP, you have gotten some solid advice to not get the ceramic BB. The extra money is better spent elsewhere.
Last edited by Painful Chafe; 05-06-11 at 10:28 AM.
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whether your chain rubs on the big chainring in small-small is going to depend on your chainline and how long your chainstay is.
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Do you guys think it's fair to ask for $200 off the original price of $700 if I decide not to purchase the ceramic beaings?
Actually I've been using big - big on my current 105/600 and I have no issue at all. It helps a lot when I'm climbing hills that doesn't have such a high incline where I don't even need to use the small ring at all. Because the Force groupset that I've test rided is an older version, there's no trim at all and I've read that Sram use to have trimming on the small ring. This is why I was asking if the trimming allows me to use the big - big.
P.S. the big-big is such a life saver when I'm going out to get some light grocery, lol.
Actually I've been using big - big on my current 105/600 and I have no issue at all. It helps a lot when I'm climbing hills that doesn't have such a high incline where I don't even need to use the small ring at all. Because the Force groupset that I've test rided is an older version, there's no trim at all and I've read that Sram use to have trimming on the small ring. This is why I was asking if the trimming allows me to use the big - big.
P.S. the big-big is such a life saver when I'm going out to get some light grocery, lol.
Last edited by MNX1024; 05-06-11 at 11:34 AM.
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Do you guys think it's fair to ask for $200 off the original price of $700 if I decide not to purchase the ceramic beaings?
Actually I've been using big - big on my current 105/600 and I have no issue at all. It helps a lot when I'm climbing hills that doesn't have such a high incline where I don't even need to use the small ring at all. Because the Force groupset that I've test rided is an older version, there's no trim at all and I've read that Sram use to have trimming on the small ring. This is why I was asking if the trimming allows me to use the big - big.
P.S. the big-big is such a life saver when I'm going out to get some light grocery, lol.
Actually I've been using big - big on my current 105/600 and I have no issue at all. It helps a lot when I'm climbing hills that doesn't have such a high incline where I don't even need to use the small ring at all. Because the Force groupset that I've test rided is an older version, there's no trim at all and I've read that Sram use to have trimming on the small ring. This is why I was asking if the trimming allows me to use the big - big.
P.S. the big-big is such a life saver when I'm going out to get some light grocery, lol.
I would say $100 is a reasonable deduction for the BB. If you try, you can usually find the ceramic BB for around that price online.
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All SRAM groupsets have trim. The first version of force had it in the small ring. 2009 and later have it in the big ring. However, if the cable tension is set up wrong, you can lose the trim altogether.
I would say $100 is a reasonable deduction for the BB. If you try, you can usually find the ceramic BB for around that price online.
I would say $100 is a reasonable deduction for the BB. If you try, you can usually find the ceramic BB for around that price online.
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I have a few questions concerning the groupset.
First is, with the trimming being moved to the big ring, is it possible to use the big ring with the largest cog?
How can I tell the difference between the 2011 and 2010 model? (physically and the manufacturing package)
Is it worth it if I can get the Shifters, crankset(BB30), derailleurs, and ceramic bearings for $700?
First is, with the trimming being moved to the big ring, is it possible to use the big ring with the largest cog?
How can I tell the difference between the 2011 and 2010 model? (physically and the manufacturing package)
Is it worth it if I can get the Shifters, crankset(BB30), derailleurs, and ceramic bearings for $700?
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I ride a LARGE relaxed geo frame with LONG chainstays, and the chain rubs on ANY of the three smallest cogs when in the small chainring. What's your experience?
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