CAAD10: A bad situation with a good (pending) outcome long
#26
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There is no BB shell in a Caad 10. The bearings are pressed directly into the frame. Their is no shell to become loose in the frame. All this discussion of a shell is absolutely wrong.
That said, the bearings in BB30 frames will frequently become loose and will creak when the rider stands up to mash on his pedals. To fix the problem, simply apply some light LocTite to hold the bearings in place.
That said, the bearings in BB30 frames will frequently become loose and will creak when the rider stands up to mash on his pedals. To fix the problem, simply apply some light LocTite to hold the bearings in place.
Fortunitly, I haven't had any noise out of the BB on my CAAD10 yet. Only 700 miles with it though.
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I don't know. Seeing that you are in Charlotte, I am assuming Charles was the C-Dale rep. I'm pretty sure he is familiar with using Loctite to hold the bearings in place.
#29
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Don't let BB30 make you change cranksets...
My Dura Ace 7800 crankset works absolutely smooth, using Wheels Mfg BB30 adapters on my Cannondale SystemSix. I've ridden Hollowgram Si SLs too and I cannot feel a lick of difference in stiffness...just lighter weight and mostly the outrageous cost difference:
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#32
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I have a similar problem with mine. Just got it last week and it 'creaks', sounds like the BB. Took it in, they lubed it up and said it should be fixed. Does it again after I ride it when I get home. Creeps up after about 5 miles and gets louder after that. Hopefully I won't have to go through as much hassle... but the LBS guys are good folks. I guess I need to ride it until it makes the noise then take it in right away. Sure is annoying though.
#33
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Face the BB? Campy is quite adamant about insuring the BB edges are parallel or their newer external bearing cranksets may tend to loosen up. Mileage may vary with other brands. Lennard Zinn pushes facing as a necessity with modern BB's (or insuring that the manufacturer's quality control makes certain the edges are parallel). OP and other's posts suggest a progressive deterioration of some parameter after leaving the shop. Of course, a new bike (assuming problem goes away) is the preferred solution.
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#34
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There is no BB shell in a Caad 10. The bearings are pressed directly into the frame. Their is no shell to become loose in the frame. All this discussion of a shell is absolutely wrong.
That said, the bearings in BB30 frames will frequently become loose and will creak when the rider stands up to mash on his pedals. To fix the problem, simply apply some light LocTite to hold the bearings in place. I have been running BB30 since 2005 on three different frames - Six 13, System 6 and Caad 9 - and have encountered this issue a few times. The LocTite issue always solved the problem.
I would not be surprised if you encounter the same problem with your next frame.
That said, the bearings in BB30 frames will frequently become loose and will creak when the rider stands up to mash on his pedals. To fix the problem, simply apply some light LocTite to hold the bearings in place. I have been running BB30 since 2005 on three different frames - Six 13, System 6 and Caad 9 - and have encountered this issue a few times. The LocTite issue always solved the problem.
I would not be surprised if you encounter the same problem with your next frame.
Suspecting that the noise is something to do with the adapters or the Shimano BB itself, can you tell me more about where exactly the loctite should be applied? And are we talking about Blue Loctite here? Or is loctite completely irrelevant to my situation?
edit - after checking the BH website, I found this note on their tech pages:
G5 Shimano BB cup adaptor removal and install
All the models except the Speedrom are BB30 ready frames. All of these frames can interchange from standard Shimano cranks to BB-30 cranks. We use Shimano cup adaptors in the frames that can be removed and installed depending on the build. These cups are installed with Loctite 242 and need to be removed very carefully. Removing the adaptor cups require a hard plastic or aluminum with a plastic tip punch so the cup or bearing won't be damaged in the removal process.
All the models except the Speedrom are BB30 ready frames. All of these frames can interchange from standard Shimano cranks to BB-30 cranks. We use Shimano cup adaptors in the frames that can be removed and installed depending on the build. These cups are installed with Loctite 242 and need to be removed very carefully. Removing the adaptor cups require a hard plastic or aluminum with a plastic tip punch so the cup or bearing won't be damaged in the removal process.
Last edited by nhluhr; 07-27-11 at 10:04 AM.
#35
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I had a similar issue on my C-Dale. C-Dale is replacing the frame. Despite those who say they have no issue with BB30's, I am mulling over having the sleeve put in and using a standard BB. I'm now wary of BB30.....
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I'm hearing a similar noise with my CAAD10. Slight ticking noise, usually when standing. I've taken the cranks off lubed everything but couldn't figure out how to remove the bearings. Is there a tool required or can I apply loctite without removing the bearings? Also what type of loctite would you recommend?
Last edited by mwchandler21; 07-27-11 at 11:48 AM.
#38
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Ben Cooley is the manager and Ilan Paltrow is the owner. Ilan is pretty much hands off (and not shy to admit it); all the heavy lifting is done by Ben. Ben is a great guy. He's a straight shooter and will tell a customer like it is (whether they like it or not). He's also their main fit guy and I am pretty happy with my fit. I will tell you that they do get busy at times and communication can, sometimes, be an issue, but, I do think they (Ben in particular) strive to make their customers happy. Trek and Cannondale are their bread and butter. They also carry Moots, Serotta and various MTBs.
Now the good news -- I finally got my replacement bicycle last Friday! I had always wanted the white CAAD10; however, as you guys know, that is not an option on the 105 spec machine, only Rival and Ultegra. When we eventually determined that a new frame would be needed, Ben offered me a color choice. I immediately jumped on white, as that is what I wanted all along.
There were a lot of ups and downs in the process and getting a white frame became a REAL issue. The stock on 2011 CAAD10s is very limited, especially given that we are nearly upon the 2012 models. Getting a white frame in a 2011.....even more challenging. At one point, I was given the news that white was simply not feasible unless I was seriously prepared to wait, with no real ETA. Needless to say, I was disappointed, however, since my black frame was still rideable, I decided to hold out. In any event, after a lot of back and forth and all sorts of different approaches, I have finally end up with a White frame with the black accents i.e. the CAAD10/3, which is normally the Ultegra spec machine (my 1st choice, even over the blue accented Rival machine). In my case, I have a CAAD10/3 frame spec-ed the same way my 10/5 was i.e. they took all the parts off the 10/3 and replaced them with those on my defective frame. As such, here is my final spec:
10/3 White+Black Frame, 105 FD/RD/Shifter, Force BB30 Crank, 105 brakes, Ultegra 6700 wheels with a tubeless setup (Force Crank, 105 brakes and wheelset were all upgraded when I purchased the original machine).
I've been itching to upgrade the bars, stem & seatpost. Given how hard the shop has worked, I 've decided to purchase 3T Ergonova bars, 3T ARX stem and 3T Palladio Seatpost (all in Team spec), directly from the shop. I know I could probably have done significantly better on the web, but its time these guys get paid for their effort.
I was waiting to update this thread after I had all my 3T parts installed (they are on order), but since folks have asked questions, I've responded now.
I will post a picture shortly (crappy cell phone one, sorry!).
Last edited by EvenKeel; 07-27-11 at 12:27 PM. Reason: a few typos
#39
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Here's a pic of the new machine:
Saddle and Bartape will be switched to white, when the 3T parts are added.
Here's a pic in the old spec (Black 10/5)
Finally, a couple of pics of the 3T parts, soon to make it on the bike.
SEAT POST:
BARS:
STEM:
Saddle and Bartape will be switched to white, when the 3T parts are added.
Here's a pic in the old spec (Black 10/5)
Finally, a couple of pics of the 3T parts, soon to make it on the bike.
SEAT POST:
BARS:
STEM:
Last edited by EvenKeel; 07-27-11 at 12:37 PM.
#40
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Nothing is "wrong" with BB30. I've used it for two years and have had zero problems with it. Additionally, I don't understand how you "take apart" a BB30 bottom bracket's "innards" other than by removing the crankset and the 2 bearings. I mean it's either the bearings are the problem or they're not and if they're not then you can't blame the actual bottom bracket. You can blame the frame's bb shell for being poorly made and even then you still can't blame BB30 for that, blame cannondale for building all of their frames in the Walmart factory.
BTW...two years ago I received a frame from a big name US manufacturer, pro level stuff, the seat stays were uneven. I could buy a whole Wal Mart for the retail price of this frame.
...facepalm...s##t happens.
Last edited by roadwarrior; 07-27-11 at 12:49 PM.
#41
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beautiful bike. glad it all worked out. congrats and happy riding.
#42
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We've got a couple hundred of them out there with no issues. But when building the bikes we check the bb build as they come from the factory already installed.
Last edited by roadwarrior; 07-27-11 at 12:50 PM.
#43
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#44
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Huge round of applause for your LBS... they really pulled out all the stops for you (and glad to see that you're repaying their service with some nice upgrades- everyone wins!) Bravo on the new bike too- awesome colours!
#45
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Was the Force crank a reasonable upgrade? And what about the brakes?
I'm still deciding if I should fork out the extra $400 for a Caad 10-4, or just get the Caad 10-5. I'm probably going to go with black, so the frame colour is not of an issue.
I'm still deciding if I should fork out the extra $400 for a Caad 10-4, or just get the Caad 10-5. I'm probably going to go with black, so the frame colour is not of an issue.
#46
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The build quality of the 105 brakes is nicer than the Tektro 580s. I guess there is just something to be said about having a "full" 105/ultegra/dura-ace etc. machine, and I wanted that. I can't say for certain that I notice a substantive difference in actual braking performance, simply because the pads never had enough usage to fully break in, before I switched over to the 105 brakes. Again, aesthetically, the 105 brakes were a nice upgrade -- even something as simple as the build quality and feel of the knob used to open the calipers is a lot nicer on the 105 brakes.
I think the key question you need to ask yourself is whether you prefer the Shimano shifting system of whether you like SRAMs double tap. I personally think the new 105 (5700) groupset is a great drivetrain set and doesn't, often, get the kudos it deserves. If you go 105, the Force crank gives you the bling factor that is missing on the 10/5 configuration. Folks may chime in and say that Rival is a lot lighter (even so, compared to Ultegra), but that really wasn't a huge factor for me.
Put it this way, the replacement bike was speced Ultegra (it wasn't a frame only). If I felt that Ultegra was that much better than 105, I would have probably worked something out with the LBS to upgrade. Also, my thought process was that if I wanted to go Ultegra, it made more sense to wait for Ultegra Di2.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by EvenKeel; 07-27-11 at 03:00 PM.
#47
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Picked her up yesterday. Sorry for the crappy cellphone pics.
Stem needs to be swapped out to the 3T ARX Team (black), else she is done.
Put her on the scale at the store for s.its & giggles. 17.40lbs as pictured (bottle cages, pedals etc.).
Will post better/detailed pics one I get the stem swapped.
Stem needs to be swapped out to the 3T ARX Team (black), else she is done.
Put her on the scale at the store for s.its & giggles. 17.40lbs as pictured (bottle cages, pedals etc.).
Will post better/detailed pics one I get the stem swapped.
#50
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