Not sure I understand "Entry level"
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 150
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Not sure I understand "Entry level"
Right now I'm riding a steel frame Pinarello Asolo. I was looking at getting a Pinarello FP1. I did some reading and discovered a lot of pro reviews and bike sites list it as an entry level bike. I beg to differ. Personally I would rank a wallmart or target bike as entry level. I know it's not a Dogma or Prince, but I don't compete so weight is not a real concern. I could have the top of the line bike, and a guy like Lance Armstrong will still beat me using a BMX on any tour.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 188
Bikes: `09 Tarmac Comp, `09 FSR XC Pro
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
entry level bike, in it's category. As in, racing category. The walmart bike doesn't even enter the racing category.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,181
Bikes: 2017 Specilized Roubaix, 2012 Scott CR1 Team, Felt Z85
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
From my experience an entry level bike is any bike that costs less than the guy's bike your talking too. Im guessing its going to be called entry level because of Tiagra componants.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 368
Bikes: Seven Cycles (Ti) Litespeed (Ti) Cannondale CAAD8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#5
ka maté ka maté ka ora
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: wessex
Posts: 4,423
Bikes: breezer venturi - red novo bosberg - red, pedal force cg1 - red, neuvation f-100 - da, devinci phantom - xt, miele piste - miche/campy, bianchi reparto corse sbx, concorde squadra tsx - da, miele team issue sl - ultegra
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
wally world specials are rear entry level
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 5,585
Bikes: 2017 Colnago C-RS, 2012 Colnago Ace, 2010 Giant Cypress hybrid
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 408 Post(s)
Liked 122 Times
in
85 Posts
Some companies, like Giant, classify entry level bikes according to frame material and components. The Defy aluminum series are Endurance Road bikes and are classified as entry level. However, the Defy Advanced are CF frames and are not entry level bikes. The Defy's are also 9 speed drivetrains (2300, Sora and Tiagra) whereas the Defy Advanced are 10 speed (105, Ultegra and Dura Ace). I'm sure that all the manufacturers follow the same line of thinking.
__________________
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe ... Ride Hard ... Ride Daily
2017 Colnago C-RS
2012 Colnago Ace
2010 Giant Cypress
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe ... Ride Hard ... Ride Daily
2017 Colnago C-RS
2012 Colnago Ace
2010 Giant Cypress
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Entry level = $700 bike at LBS today.
Walmart bike = bike-shaped object.
There is no comparison between the two - not even close. However, there is only a marginal speed difference between a $700 bike and a $10,000 bike - like <2%, for real. Entry-level bike typically have lowest-end components by Shimano for road bikes (Either 2200/2300 or Sora.)
Walmart bike = bike-shaped object.
There is no comparison between the two - not even close. However, there is only a marginal speed difference between a $700 bike and a $10,000 bike - like <2%, for real. Entry-level bike typically have lowest-end components by Shimano for road bikes (Either 2200/2300 or Sora.)
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I am going to disagree with the <2%. I think there is quite a difference between an aluminum trek 1.1 and andy schleck's cf madone 6.9 he rode in the tour de france.
#9
Should Be More Popular
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,051
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 560 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22597 Post(s)
Liked 8,925 Times
in
4,158 Posts
Agree. Maybe 3 or 4%.
#10
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Delaware shore
Posts: 13,558
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Liked 2,174 Times
in
1,465 Posts
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,099
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Most hobbies are that way. 'Entry Level' is generally a sizable step from from the 'toy' level, which is where I would put walmart bikes.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Entry level is in the eye of the beholder in my opinion. Some people doesnt know any better than sora and they love that junk and anything that is ultegra for them is like a machine coming from god land no matter how good the frame is.
Another good example, some ugly frames are being sold with Dura - ace components, do you call them entry level? Racing worth level?? the frame is so bad that I wouldn't race on that at all but it has dura - ace. New class? fugly level?? All depends.
Another good example, some ugly frames are being sold with Dura - ace components, do you call them entry level? Racing worth level?? the frame is so bad that I wouldn't race on that at all but it has dura - ace. New class? fugly level?? All depends.
#15
I like beans
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Meffa, MA
Posts: 3,336
Bikes: Tarmac Pro, Bianchi Zurigo, Raleigh Gran Sport, Fuji Del Rey, Ironman Centurion
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Entry level can also refer to entry level carbon, which means nothing more that it's the cheapest all carbon bike they sell. These bikes are hardly entry level and it is a misnomer.
#16
Commuter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 140
Bikes: jamis quest, scattante romá, raleigh c40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In this case, the FP1 is not a carbon bike, it's aluminum with carbon seat stays and fork.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 376
Bikes: 2010 FUJI SL-1 Comp
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So... on the 2% vs 4% difference thing... you're basically talking about what?
I have 105 groupo on my Fuji SL-1 Comp and recently rented a CAAD8 for a week while on a business trip. In climbing various hills around the area where I rented, I found two significant differences:
1. Going from a 10-speed cassette to an 8-speed cassette resulted in rougher climbing because there are more teeth between shifts
2. With the Sora shifters, you can't actually shift to a higher gear while you are in the drops - I found this to be a huge pain.
I found the differences to be quite significant and I am very glad I opted to spend a little more for something with 105 or better.
I have 105 groupo on my Fuji SL-1 Comp and recently rented a CAAD8 for a week while on a business trip. In climbing various hills around the area where I rented, I found two significant differences:
1. Going from a 10-speed cassette to an 8-speed cassette resulted in rougher climbing because there are more teeth between shifts
2. With the Sora shifters, you can't actually shift to a higher gear while you are in the drops - I found this to be a huge pain.
I found the differences to be quite significant and I am very glad I opted to spend a little more for something with 105 or better.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3,456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
So... on the 2% vs 4% difference thing... you're basically talking about what?
I have 105 groupo on my Fuji SL-1 Comp and recently rented a CAAD8 for a week while on a business trip. In climbing various hills around the area where I rented, I found two significant differences:
1. Going from a 10-speed cassette to an 8-speed cassette resulted in rougher climbing because there are more teeth between shifts
2. With the Sora shifters, you can't actually shift to a higher gear while you are in the drops - I found this to be a huge pain.
I found the differences to be quite significant and I am very glad I opted to spend a little more for something with 105 or better.
I have 105 groupo on my Fuji SL-1 Comp and recently rented a CAAD8 for a week while on a business trip. In climbing various hills around the area where I rented, I found two significant differences:
1. Going from a 10-speed cassette to an 8-speed cassette resulted in rougher climbing because there are more teeth between shifts
2. With the Sora shifters, you can't actually shift to a higher gear while you are in the drops - I found this to be a huge pain.
I found the differences to be quite significant and I am very glad I opted to spend a little more for something with 105 or better.
I'd be surprised if it was as large as a 4% difference. That would mean that riding those two bikes in one-hour time trial, that there would be a 2 and a half minute difference between the finishing times.
In comparison AEROBARS can't even give that big a difference, and aerobars are considered the single biggest structural advantage you can make to a bike to actually make it faster. (Far exceeding wheels, helmet, aero frame, by a 3-4x factor.) Most tests have had an aerobar equipped bike (with proper TT position) coming in at 40sec/hr, maybe 1 minute tops over a non-aerobar equipped bike. And the aerobars are going to give you way bigger of an advantage between an entry level bike and a $10k bike sans aerobars with today's generation of bikes.
Even on hills, where weight is more of a factor, the difference isn't significant enough - today's entry level bikes are 19,20 lbs max. (My Giant Defy3 is 20.5 lbs with heavy clunker wheels and pedals.) Even on a all uphill one-hour course, a 3-4 lbs difference (or even a 7lbs difference) isn't going to give you a 2 minute gap, and that's the best of circumstances.
I'd be surprised if the actually difference between today's entry level bikes and the high-end ones is greater than 2% speed difference given this. Aero frames, regardless of design, give only a fraction of the gains of aerobars (like 1/8th-1/10th), and again, aerobars don't even give you a 2% advantage.
I won't deny however, that shifting with Di2 and riding a Cervelo brand name with bling all over your bike may give you a mental advantage that gives you 2 minutes in training! And of course, shifting will be superior on the expensive bikes - but shifting doesn't win races.
Last edited by hhnngg1; 08-02-11 at 11:14 PM.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 376
Bikes: 2010 FUJI SL-1 Comp
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You're talking about some fantasy measurement where you have the absolute perfect rider doing things absolutely perfectly with perfect form in a perfect environment.
My personal experience is that climbing hills with a 10 gear cassette is much smoother and much easier than with an 8 gear cassette, which means I can climb faster, climb smoother with less jarring to the system, and climb more efficiently. It equates to less suffering and more energy for the rest of the ride. Just coasting down hill, I don't have that all perfect form, and I can get about 3-4 mph faster if I'm in the drops vs on the hoods. Which... when going between 30 and 35 miles an hour is what... 10%?
So taking into consideration the abilities of your average cyclist trying to decide between entry level and enthusiast level, I'm going to say it's a much bigger difference.
My personal experience is that climbing hills with a 10 gear cassette is much smoother and much easier than with an 8 gear cassette, which means I can climb faster, climb smoother with less jarring to the system, and climb more efficiently. It equates to less suffering and more energy for the rest of the ride. Just coasting down hill, I don't have that all perfect form, and I can get about 3-4 mph faster if I'm in the drops vs on the hoods. Which... when going between 30 and 35 miles an hour is what... 10%?
So taking into consideration the abilities of your average cyclist trying to decide between entry level and enthusiast level, I'm going to say it's a much bigger difference.
#20
Peloton Shelter Dog
Ultegra Di2 is now the new entry level kid.
__________________
https://www.cotsiscad.com
https://www.cotsiscad.com
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Someplace trying to figure it out
Posts: 10,664
Bikes: Cannondale EVO, CAAD9, Giant cross bike.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Some companies, like Giant, classify entry level bikes according to frame material and components. The Defy aluminum series are Endurance Road bikes and are classified as entry level. However, the Defy Advanced are CF frames and are not entry level bikes. The Defy's are also 9 speed drivetrains (2300, Sora and Tiagra) whereas the Defy Advanced are 10 speed (105, Ultegra and Dura Ace). I'm sure that all the manufacturers follow the same line of thinking.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Tel Aviv, Israel
Posts: 210
Bikes: 2009 Felt B2 Pro, 2009 Trek 1.2, '80s Hercules beater
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Tell that to Schleck.
I ride a Sora-equipped Trek 1.2 (from the year before they got Tiagra RDs) and, well, it sucks. The components, not the frame. Sure, when freshly adjusted, even the FD shifts reasonably quick, and the RD can cope with pressure and - but even my huge hands can barely shift from the drops (which costs time & aero-position). At the same time, the easy rotation of the brake-lever (to shift) can be unnerving - a single-purpose lever would be my choice.
And what makes this entry-level, then? Because while the frame weighs 1.5kg (reasonably light - just ~300-400g more than same-vintage carbon weighed) and works out reasonably stiff, just upgrading the groupset (or wheels!) would double the money spent on that bike. For the price of a high-mid level grouppo (say, Rival, Athena or 105/Ultegra), plus a set of reasonable wheels (Ksyrium Equipes, say - just my rear wheel weighs more than a set of those), installation and other bits'n'bobs, I could have... A brand-spanking new Canyon CF frame with exactly those parts, and it'd weigh 7.3kg.
I ride a Sora-equipped Trek 1.2 (from the year before they got Tiagra RDs) and, well, it sucks. The components, not the frame. Sure, when freshly adjusted, even the FD shifts reasonably quick, and the RD can cope with pressure and - but even my huge hands can barely shift from the drops (which costs time & aero-position). At the same time, the easy rotation of the brake-lever (to shift) can be unnerving - a single-purpose lever would be my choice.
And what makes this entry-level, then? Because while the frame weighs 1.5kg (reasonably light - just ~300-400g more than same-vintage carbon weighed) and works out reasonably stiff, just upgrading the groupset (or wheels!) would double the money spent on that bike. For the price of a high-mid level grouppo (say, Rival, Athena or 105/Ultegra), plus a set of reasonable wheels (Ksyrium Equipes, say - just my rear wheel weighs more than a set of those), installation and other bits'n'bobs, I could have... A brand-spanking new Canyon CF frame with exactly those parts, and it'd weigh 7.3kg.