Time IClick pedals
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Time IClick pedals
Anybody here running the Time iClic pedals? I've heard about the cleat problems, but has anybody had any bearing issues with these pedals??
I've got three sets and we (my knees and I) love the pedals. However, I sent my first set back within a 8 months (~1500 miles) due to stiff bearings. Time replaced the pedals under warranty and I have since picked up another two sets of pedals for my other bikes (three sets total). Another 8 months have gone by and I have found that the first two sets are getting stiff bearings again. One set of pedals with ~1500 miles and the other with ~600 miles.
I've got three sets and we (my knees and I) love the pedals. However, I sent my first set back within a 8 months (~1500 miles) due to stiff bearings. Time replaced the pedals under warranty and I have since picked up another two sets of pedals for my other bikes (three sets total). Another 8 months have gone by and I have found that the first two sets are getting stiff bearings again. One set of pedals with ~1500 miles and the other with ~600 miles.
Last edited by MPress; 09-15-11 at 02:41 PM. Reason: spelling correction
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#3
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Have 2 sets of the iClic Ti. One set started to make noise and started to get stiff about 4 months into it. I took a syringe and some Finish Line dry teflon lube and squirted a bit of it into the area where the bearings are supposed to be while turning the pedals. Like new. I do that now every 4-6 weeks and it has kept them free spinning. The cleats I find that wear much sooner than others I've used before including LOOK KEO and even the Aerolites I used before. The engagement is superb and works as advertised. They have a new (2nd) generation now and they are a tiny bit lighter and have a little metal plate where the contact is on the pedal to extend the life of it and perhaps the cleats too. Despite what I said above, I would still buy them again.
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Oh good! An actual thread about iClic pedals. So are there any SPD users who switched over to iClics? How much better are they? I'm shopping around for pedals and saw it on sale at blueskycycling.com. Just wanted to get more info before I make a decision. Thank you in advance.
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I have a set that I got for Enzo -> he brought them back to me a couple of weeks back saying there was some sort of cleat issue and that issue is fairly widely known and that he was having that problem...
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Oh good! An actual thread about iClic pedals. So are there any SPD users who switched over to iClics? How much better are they? I'm shopping around for pedals and saw it on sale at blueskycycling.com. Just wanted to get more info before I make a decision. Thank you in advance.
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Hmmm... supposedly the iClic2 cleats have a beefed up version for longevity. Must do more research... I'm really interested on these pedals! But I really should make sure first that I'm getting my bike in December! <_<
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I've been using iClic pedals for a few months now and really love them. I came from Speedplay and, before that, SPD-SL... I prefer iClick to both. I am yet to have any problems with stiff bearings, but I did break a cleat while walking across the house to my bike.
#9
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Sorry to revive and old thread.
I am interested in the iclic or the rxs. They both state that they have 2.5mm of lateral float. How does that exactly work? Also are the pedals weighted such that they orient properly when trying to clip in?
Thanks
I am interested in the iclic or the rxs. They both state that they have 2.5mm of lateral float. How does that exactly work? Also are the pedals weighted such that they orient properly when trying to clip in?
Thanks
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The iClicks are heavier at the back, so they do orient themselves. I can't say that I've ever measured how much float they allow in real life, but there definitely is a few millimeters of play there before the cleat disengages from the pedal. I'm not sure what you mean by your question "How does that exactly work?" though.....
#11
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The iClicks are heavier at the back, so they do orient themselves. I can't say that I've ever measured how much float they allow in real life, but there definitely is a few millimeters of play there before the cleat disengages from the pedal, but I'm not sure what you mean by your question "How does that exactly work?"....
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i'm a time rxs carbon fanboy (3 sets). the float is lateral within the pedal. also adjustable q factor (swap the cleats l and r). they're stiff through the break in period, use a bit of lube on the cleat. the cleats last and last (2 1/2 seasons). these days i'm riding 12-14 thousand km a year.